Tehnation

Do the 2 IAT wires produce a different cel code or is it all the same maf code? If there are separate codes then it just involves 3 wires. The power and maf signal lines are a lower gauge or thicker wire, they are the middle and wire to the right with plug connected and top of the maf facing you with the wires pointing down. I asked iwire to lower the gauge wire for those thicker lines, the power and maf signal. They could make a longer harness for an extra 10 buck, thats for 4 or 5 feet, they said same price so 5 ft it is.

@xt2005bonbon I have an AP. I guess I need to find my multimeter....ughh I hate wires... @xt2005bonbonYou might find some hp if you put in a new one I hear. @rhino6303It gets to the ecu through the main harness right? That might be a pita if I have to get into that harness in the ball grommet thing, can you even mess with that? I hope the issue is on the engine bay side and not the ecu side. How would I even test this... . the problem is intermittent, and I am tired of breaking down on the road lol.

could it be my maf sensor?

This is a brand new plug and pigtail from iWire, I installed it last year. I can't see it going bad that quickly.

Anyone know what gauge wires are used for the maf? I think there are 2 different sizes. I going to grab some wire just in case iWire doesn't come through, I'm waiting for a response to my email.

So taking off the plastic cover and all the electrical tape and pulling the wires apart like you said worked..... get on the road to get to tuner and 15 minutes later cracked rim.... oh my god, my life is a drama. Off to the junkyard to get a used wheel, hopefully I can salvage the tire. Today was a complete sht show...... I wiggle, rub and shake these wires and nothing happens now. I don't know why this problem is random, only clue I have is it seems it happens when things get warm, I remember smelling some plastic smell when it happened yesterday. Why would wires short when they get hot? Normally I just drive the car short trips around town, yesterday I actually went on a longer drive, hit the highway etc. Never did it before on longer trips either but it was always an issue, I've respliced the connections several times already. Could the wire casing just be shot? I am just going to hack it all off up to the main harness and hopefully iwire can send me a maf plug with 4-5ft pigtail. A ground issue wouldn't cause this I don't think?

Does the MAF line go straight to the ecu? I am thinking I want to replace the entire line all the way to the ecu. Cause everything up to the firewall is questionable. I just know getting through that ball grommet thingy is gonna be a pita. Cause now nothing is working, it started this morning and then died, and I can't get it start again. So something with heat is in play.

I can't make this stuff up..... so I'm driving and everything is running good, I mean when I romp the gas in 2nd gear the tires are breaking loose, so everything was allll gravy. Then all of a sudden it dies and wont start. I pull maf codes, so I start playing with that cause I'm in the middle of the road during rush hour traffic and everyones honking their horns. After like 15 minutes of fiddling I realize its the maf line that goes to the maf sensor. A long while back, I had some issues and now it seems that maf line thats running mighty close to the uppipe and turbo is getting hot and causing all sorts of nonsense. Old story short, when I 1st starting modding I installed an uppipe with a bolt in the bung for the egt, that bolt ended up shooting out like a bullet and the fumes and hot exhaust that came out the bung melted that maf line and shorted a fuse for the ecu, one of those odd fuses under the hood that you would least suspect. Now it seems this old injury is coming back to haunt me at the absolute worst fckin time when I'm about to go for a dyno tomorrow..... I just went to get some dinner.... and now this. So tomorrow morning I'm gonna have to figure something out. Shaking and moving the line away from the exhaust seemed to get it start again but it went out several times and I had to get out and shake the line to get the car to start again. Is there a maf line part number? I just want to replace the entire thing?

They said you want like 20 or 30 psi at idle or 1k rpm can't remember exact numbers, and then an additional 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. So if I had 20-30 psi at 1k rpm, which is my idle, I would need 80-90 psi for 7k rpm.

So atm I can drive the car up to 7k rpm easy, but the tuner said if the oil pressure readings are correct then you can't go to 7 or 8k, which he doubted (oil pressure readings) cause he said it wasn't a good one, I have the Innovate oil pressure and temp gauge. I agree and getting a more consistent and accurate oil pressure gauge is on my list. He also said that it could be a blow by issue, considering its my 1st attempt at building an EJ motor i may have made my piston ring gaps to big, but then he said the PCV system is trash on these cars so theres that. So they recommended an AOS system with the competition kit to better vent the crankcase, which made sense. I'm not going to pull the motor until it blows up so at that point you just gotta deal with it. The possible issue is the excess blow by could be pushing the oil to the sides which screws with the oil pressure. So even though I feel and drive it over 6k rpm, they stop the dyno prior, from the dyno chart you can see that they let off around 6.1-6.3krpm, cause it shouldnt drop that steep if your foot is still on the gas and they said as much. Does the oem oil pressure sensor not send readings? If I recall correctly it doesnt.... smh.

-BC Stage 3 Cams BC0622 -BC Springs BC0600 -Manley Turbo Tuff Extreme Duty Pistons 632800CE-4 99.50 -17cc 8.5cr -Manley H-Tuff Rods 15024-4 -ARP Head Stud Kit 260-4701 -Subaru STi 11mm 15010AA360 Oil Pump -DeatschWerks EV 1000cc Top Feed Injectors 17U-07-1000-4, -Modified fuel rail from 07+ lgt fuel rail and 05 lgt fuel rail. https://www.legacygt.com/topic/104256-top-feed-injector-plug/ -DeatschWerks DWR1000 Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator on return line with vacuum source from OEM Recirculating Blow Off Valve, OEM FPR was replaced with Fuel Pressure Gauge -AEM 50-1215 fuel pump with upgraded wiring, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html -BNR 20g Billet Turbo -IP&T Turbo Oil Feed Kit w/Oil Filter -Cobb 3 Port Boost Solenoid -Grimmspeed TMIC -Grimmspeed Cold Air Intake -Blox Racing 5-AXIS TGV DELETE KIT and KSTech 18mm Aluminum Cylinder Head to TGV Spacers -MAPerformance 4-1 EL Headers version 1 -Catless Uppipe -CNT Bellmouth 3" Catless Downpipe -Manzo 3" Exhaust, I butchered in a resonator - looking to get rid of it. -FluidAMPR Harmonic Damper -Spec Stage 3+ Clutch w/ Lightweight Flywheel -Killer B Motorsport Extreme Flow HARD Turbo Inlet -iWire Hybrid MAF Wiring Kit with AEM IAT Sensor part number 30-2010, Welded the Bung to the TMIC -IAG Air / Oil Separator (AOS) IAG-ENG-7181BK with Street to Competition Series Conversion Kit IAG-ENG-7210 -iBuildRaceCars FLX01 - Flex Fuel Sensor Kit - Custom Order for 3 pin TGV I think thats about it engine wise...

I think its a tune thing, cause I didn't have it before, and I was already running the sti fpr.

Nothing really. I added an IAT sensor to my intercooler for tuning it with speed density, added the killer b turbo inlet, IAG AOS with competition kit so it vents all the air to the atmosphere, added DW FPR with a DW pulsation damper to smooth out fuel pressure, installed a new engine harness to get rid of some electrical gremlins, and the biggest mod would be installing the iBuildRaceCars flex fuel kit so I can run E85. Rather than spend like 5k+ on turbos, EWGs, FMIC etc. It made more sense to spend 600 on the kit to see if E85 can get me past 400awhp. If I can get another 75hp I would he content. I'm at 360 atm. This route is probably much safer for the motor as well.

And it snowed, melted and froze.... I got summer tires, its gonna be a pita getting it there Friday if it does not warm up and melt the ice.

I'll see what I can do, I don't really have any recording devices other than my phone, so not sure how I would record both windshield and instrument panel stuff at the same time, I think I can do one or the other fairly easily. Its funny but I love technology and hate it at the same time lol. Part of me is like, uploading footage of me doing reckless sht is probably not a good idea! The power I have now seems like plenty, I just have some hesitation between 2-3k rpm when easing into the gas, basically normal driving, WOT or a heavy foot and it works fine. Probably something with the tune, has always been an issue since the latest tune, I just drove away thinking car needs to learn and I didn't do much "normal driving" obviously lol, so it was overlooked until I calmed down days later and realized this isn't going away. Atm I like where I'm at where 93 octane gets me enough, granted I get rid of this 2-3k hesitation, and then having the option to get some more kiss my ass room when I fill up on e85 and pull another 65-100 awhp hopefully. Its like a nice little nitrous kit without all the fuss.

New harness got rid of that code, and now everything is running good. Got the killer b turbo inlet to line up properly. Tons of power, the dangerous kind LOL! I love it, I can punch 7k rpm like its nothing and it seems it likes it. I go for a flex fuel tune next Friday, hopefully I can break 425-450 awhp.

I installed the 18" spacers and new tgv deletes, as well as the killer b turbo inlet. The turbo inlet is an absolute pita. You have to adjust and trim the coupler a bunch of times to get it to work right. I just barely got it to work but the front mounting point is not aligned. Not sure if thats cause I raised the intake manifold 18mm or whatever. The 18mm spacer does give a lot more room for the turbo inlet, allowing little to no interference from the tgv. Darkness caught me so I will make another attempt tomorrow. Also got my new engine harness, hopefully that nips any electrical issues in the bud, otherwise..... I need to buy more harnesses lol cause I am not troubleshooting wiring.

https://www.bagriders.com/vehicle/subaru-legacy-bl-bp-awd Wahh... air ride? 1st 15 seconds! I think I may hold off on coilovers, this looks a lot more interesting.

I'm at 360 whp, and just put in flex fuel kit to break 425 whp, and still plan to make more mods in the future, ie bigger turbo, much bigger turbo. So rather than doing things twice, I just want a full 3" system that can accommodate any mods in the future. It does sound nice and quiet but I just want to be future proof.

I bought a new engine harness, i' didn't want to start playing with wires. I need it anyway, because once you have one problem other problems are right around the corner when it comes to wiring harnesses. When I shake the harness things get all wonky. I just hope the issue is on the engine harness side and not the other side that goes to the ecu. If so I'm just going to replace the entire harness. I really don't like playing with wires.

Can a P2088 code come from the camshaft position sensor or is strictly the ocv and its wiring?

The blox tgv and ks tech spacers came in. I must say they look and feel well made. Will take some pictures when I get a chance. I got them here for like $300. They don't make them anymore so all thats left is old stock I believe. https://www.jmautosports.com/product/blox-racing-5-axis-tgc-delete-kit-subaru-ej-series-black-bxim-51002-bk

https://prestigeautolab.com/products/megan-racing-v2-stainless-tips-oe-rs-exhaust-kit-for-subaru-legacy-gt-2005-2009?pr_prod_strat=use_description&pr_rec_id=05905362c&pr_rec_pid=8333502611735&pr_ref_pid=8333502546199&pr_seq=uniform Now a days all these companies drop ship, and a lot of times they don't update their website. I will contact them to see if they have it physically in stock. I like this kit, good price, and ticks all my boxes, has resonator, single exhaust tips, full 3", and has a good price.

Now I remember the major difference, its the top feed and side thing. The center piece between the manifold inlet pipes has a different shape to accommodate the top feed fuel rails. I had to butcher the oem top feed fuel rails I got to make it play nice with my 05 intake manifold when I switched to topfeed.

3" to 2 x2.25" works cause the volume is increased going to two 2.25", so no flow restriction. The megan racing looks good, looks like its not made anymore. Would have to find new old stock. https://www.shutokoengineering.com/product-p/midpipe-slg05-mr-abe-slg05-v2.htm Is this the one your talking about? Looks good, has a silencer as well.... hmmm I just gotta find someone who has it.