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Everything posted by Tehnation
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And I somehow managed to blow both my amps..... no idea how both went. Looks like the 4 gauge wire came out the sub amp and shorted everything. I have a main 0 or 2 gauge wire from the battery to a distribution block which powers my amps and fuel pump. Fuel pump is fine, cause the car starts. I actually broke out the multimeter and everything has 14 volts including the signal wire, so they are getting power..... god damnit, now i gotta buy 2 new amps......
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Guess its time to find out what my local station is providing. When they tuned it, they had 5 gallon jugs of fuel that was definitely special order, I didn't really pay much attention but it wasn't like they went to a gas station and filled up some jugs, it was probably 85% or more, I had between a quarter to half tank and they topped it off with this fuel and it went to 79%, so it was probably some race blend with a high percentage of e85 or a true 85%.
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That seems like a lot of fuel. What fuel are you running? I'm still on oem plumbing. Looks like my giant cams are actually doing something. My solution for all the craziness was to just get cams that have a crap ton of duration, and not extra lift. So rather than cramming more fuel within a certain window, I opted to just widen or open the window more. I think the cams are one of the biggest factors for these results. 390 on pump gas @ around 6750rpm and a 20g with 1000cc injectors isn't what people get with regular cams.
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If I change injectors I need to retune it, $$$, so it makes more sense to just fix what I got. Mine are DW, they do all that stuff as well. The ID's are the best but these 400 dollar injectors seem to be doing just fine lol. The injectors have been sitting for really long periods of time, so they actually haven't had much use. Thats probably why they are dirty. 390 and 440 awhp with a little 20g with TMIC isn't bad! The best part is look at that RPM! I got power up to 7k, and it doesn't really fall off, so I can run to 7.5-8k rpm. I can literally drive in any gear, the power band is crazy. Ballin on a budget!
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The mods I did that gave me the bump from 360-390 -Swapped out the catted dp with oem connection for stock exhaust to catless full 3" -killer b hard turbo inlet -IAG AOS kit with competition kit to vent to atmosphere -Blox racing aluminum TGV deletes with 18mm spacers. I think the dp and turbo inlet did the most, but I'll gladly take whatever extra hp on 93 octane. They also said my injectors need to be cleaned, cause they were seeing a bunch of misfires and my injectors are old now that I'm thinking about it, so I gotta get that done.
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I checked some other things, like my FPR and intake manifold, because the hesitation was very violent. I realized my bolts for the tgv and intake manifold needed to be re tightened, all of them had become somewhat loose, as in I had to snug them down a significant amount. Also, my fpr was leaking, so I tightened that as well. Now its running much better, the hesitation is there somewhat but not nearly as bad as before. So I am thinking that hesitation may be a vacuum or fuel pressure thing, which would throw off a tune. If you have the notorious Subaru hesitation I would inspect the tgv and intake manifold gaskets as well as the bolts. That 2-3k rpm range is right around when you start to build boost, so vacuum issues may play a part in the hesitation cause everything is controlled by vacuum levels, ie the turbo, BPV, and FPR. So if your vacuum is wonky it seems like it effects other things. Now that I tightened everything up, I am going to next check if increasing the idle fpr does anything. Stay tuned!
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Looks like that may have fixed it, but now I'm traumatized again and scared to drive it anywhere lol. I am also going to try adjusting the fuel pressure to see if that gets rid of the hesitation. I didn't have it on the original etune I got to get the car started with the new engine build, then all of a sudden after the dyno tune its happening. I don't think the fuel pressure will do anything but why not, lets find out.
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So only the maf signal wire, the middle wire, is shielded, and the only lower gauge wire is the power line. The maf signal line is shielded which is why the wire is bigger. I undid all my splices for that wire and saw that I had just wrapped the shielding over the inner wire splice and shrink wrap. Wish I took pictures but it was cold as hell and I just wanted to get it done. So when you splice shielded cable you should trim the shielding wire and not just wrap it over the splice. Not sure if thats the issue but it sure as hell wasn't done the right way so I am going to guess and say it heated up and signal wire made contact with the shielding wire.
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So iWire sent me a link which may be the issue. https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/what-is-shielded-wire-and-how-to-install-it?_pos=1&_sid=664255fb8&_ss=r The maf and power line are shielded which is why they are thicker and I don't think I trimmed the shield wire, so that may be causing some kind of short when things heat up and expand.
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So my dilemma is the issue seems random. Would testing for continuity work regardless if the issue is present or not? I want to just replace the entire line but its spider webbed into the main harness and I really don't want to mess with that or even replace it. The weird thing is the heat, when that happens normally I think a device/sensor is failing, not a wiring issue. But shaking wires and rushing to get things done in the dark in the middle of traffic made it hard to really get a solid diagnosis. Shaking the line and connecting and reconnecting the maf sensor could have done anything, but it got results, so the maf connection seems plausible. OMG so many things, I just last year had this kind of issue and redid everything, I installed a new maf sensor, Denso 1976040, and iWire pigtail.