Tehnation

1k for rods puts this realllllllllly far from balling on a budget . A standard forged rod should be able to handle 8k rpm. I do not want to spend more than 300-400 for rods. Hopefully I can find a good piston+rod deal for like 700-800. I don't think my fueling will let me go past 500whp, might get me close but the dw65c limits are pretty much where I gotta wrap this up .

Fuel?? Mileage? ?? Lol thats all out the window !!!

For pistons nothing special.... probably going to bore to 100mm dish. A while back I had been talking with a racing motor builder, he specified in race bikes and imports, mainly subaru's. He builds pro racing motors that win, so i have been going by his advice. He said at my level, 400-500whp, piston choice is not that important, so i am mainly going by price and weight! CP, wiseco, going with whatever I can get my hands on for a good price, and if they are all the same price, then weight of the pistons will be my next factor. I guess i'm going for price to weight ratio! Anything else I don't really care, as long as its forged lol! Even the stock head bolts are fine at this level. Its mainly the tune, tune makes all the difference. Stock long blocks are putting down 400whp with just turbo's and bolt ons easily.... My main reason for wanting to go forged is because I want to be able to rev to 8k! So my main research atm is what to do about the rods... trying to see if they can hold up to 8k rpm. Only bottleneck at this point are the rods..... and once again price vs weight. lighter rotating assembly equates to quicker engine response.

The real fun begins !!!! Best case scenario would be : "If the crank is decent, you can have the mainline honed out to take ever so slightly oversize bearings (for example. . . King?) and probably hit your main specs pretty close. " I think a new crank goes for around 325 , so far this option would be 325+600+300=1225 round it to 1300 for the cost of bearings, so thats not to bad of a second option. Otherwise a new shortblock for 1800.

I want to see how much more bang for my buck I can get spending 1800 on rebuilding vs, 1800 on a shipped shortblock. So far its going to be about 500-600 for some forged pistons. 300 to have block cleaned, bored and decked. That is after I disassemble and split block!

Here's some cool blogs explaining in more detail the what and the why. http://www.maperformance.com/blogs/maperformance-blog/77034371-how-to-avoid-piston-failure-subaru-performance-tips http://www.vikingspeedshop.com/how-to-avoid-blown-ringlands-in-your-subaru-wrx-or-sti/

Cracked ringland on one of my pistons...... Pulling it all down, going forged pistons.

I'm a firm believer in "if aint broke don't fix it!" I would rather break it and learn more than just make assumptions about the subaru hp gods. It may or may not hold it, I guess i will just have to find out when it happens! I have triple a plus!!! 5 tows a year, 100 miles! Best 150 bucks a year I have ever spent!

So much rain, pulling all the pistons as soon as the weather gets better. No point to split the block if all the rings are good. The heads have to be rebuilt, its in dire need of a valve job, its impossible to get a proper tune. I purchased the stage 2 cams a while ago so they are just sitting around, its more like why not. Also had a gates timing belt kit sitting around, oil pump, etc. I most likely wont even rebuild with new springs. If they are worn then I will replace with the BC set but if there fine then no point, i'm really only just paying for the rebuild of the heads which is pretty much a necessity at this point. But all the oil stains from everything leaking and constant refilling and topping off, paired with my clutch going out, probably due to the rear main seal pissing all over the flywheel. I decided to pull the engine and fix it all, so as long as it gets me about 20k miles i'll be fine, until i rebuild it again.

This is an awesome video for anyone interested in tackling their engine on their own. If your familiar with engine building this will provide all the info you need. Only thing complicated about these blocks are that you have to split it and seal it, other than that I don't see anything special about these blocks. SUBARU MIKE FTW!!! Best video i have seen so far!

My block looks like it has under 50k miles on it which is weird. But i'll take it! Cylinder walls are very clean, all the crosshatching is there, no scratches, so my pistons and rings are in good shape. My valves on the other hand..... The carbon is easy to get rid of. If i buy any pistons, they will be forged .

Rear main seal, and oil pump seal were both leaking. Bought a case of engine degreaser, omg its looking like a new engine again. I am also going to clean the pistons, lots of carbon buildup. There are a bunch of ways to do it! Just search on youtube/google The soaking method seems the way to go so you can clean the grooves as well. But the other way would be good if you don't want to remove the pistons. You can get the pistons out of the block without splitting the block, just need a 14mm hex bolt to remove the plugs for each front cylinder so you can get to the pins. The rear ones, not sure yet, damn flywheel is in the way.

Looks like my shortblock is in awesome shape surprisingly.... the cross hatching is still showing. So a simple breakdown, cleaning and hone as well as new piston rings and gaskets is all I will change for now. When I get to the crankshaft I will inspect the bearings. If everything looks good, play ball. Looks like my headgasket was starting to go, and several valves looked worn, and needed adjustment. Bringing them to the machine shop on Monday. But so far everything is going good, engine is out. WTF t 50 torx plus bit,??? Why?? who's going to steal a flywheel, to use a more expensive bolt like that.. sometimes i wonder about the Subaru designers some times. Where can I buy this bit. Jesus christ no store sells this thing. I will compile all my pictures in a photo album to check out how dirty my engine was. I can't upload photos for some reason, nor do i care to try and figure out why lol.

So... I guess its my turn for the rebuild thread! My car has oil everywhere, it leaks everywhere..... it's just that time. But I couldn't justify the a new shortblock for 1600-1700, especially when I have a close friend who's high performance engine certified from Wyotech. I am in the middle of pulling the engine, the damn downpipe bottom nut is seized and won't come off, so I have to pull engine with downpipe. Will be doing that tomorrow. My end goals are 400-500whp, or whatever my DW65 and 1000cc top feed injectors can handle. Cylinder Heads: -Brian Crower Stage 3 Cams BC0622 $600 -Brian Crower Springs BC0600 $220 -Everything else Stock -Rebuild with said parts $700 for both heads $1520 total for rebuilding heads Why I went with the BC's? They were cheap, mild and simple, no grinding or modification needed, completely plug and play, also works with stock springs. A lot simpler to rebuild for the average machine shop. And from the looks of it they stand behind their product. This is my DD and I drive in NYC a lot! 18g turbo will get me to about 7400-7600rpm redline, bigger turbo like the 20g will get me to 8000rpm redline(forged pistons recommended at that point). Edit: I went to stage 3's instead of 2's .... why ... racecar! I don't see much info on the stage 3 cams so I will see how the fair. Standard Parts Engine Stuff: -OCV x 2 -STI 11mm Oil Pump -Gates Racing Timing Belt Kit w/ Kevlar Belt and Waterpump -Oil Cooler -Subaru Master Gasket Set Before I actually see the piston walls and block condition, I have 2 routes for the short block. Short Block If the walls are in good shape, play ball! I will simply just replace the piston rings and keep it moving until the block goes! If the walls aren't in good shape and needs to be honed/bored, then I will split the block, and rebuild with new bearings, and forged pistons. Will have the stock crank and rods tested(x-rayed) and if they are good I will reuse them, which they most likely are. Everywhere I look >500whp builds are flawed by pistons or poor tolerances/tunes....nothing to do with stock rods, which are forged, cheap forged, but still forged supposedly. For my goals, stock crank and rods are more than adequate for a sub 7400-8000 rpm redline. Other Engine Mods I have (will get pricing and links for everything later on): -Agency Power LW pulley -DW 65c fuel pump -1000cc DW EV14 injectors -Exedy LW Flywheel -Spec Stage 3 Clutch -BNR 18g Turbo (I also have an extra 18g which bnr said they would upgrade to a 20g with bigger bellhousing for about $400-500, so I will be sending that out after I am done with my rebuild if the 18g doesn't get me past 400whp) -Cobb 3 Port Boost Controller -Torque Solutions TMIC -3" CNT Downpipe to stock -Catless Uppipe -My Own Top Feed Injector Mod My top feed mod Suspension Mods: -100% Whiteline Poly, I have every suspension bushing replaced with something whiteline. -Hotchkiss Swaybars w Avo rear bracket mounts -Kartboy Endlinks -Koni Adjustable Struts Tein-S Springs *Cusco Front and Rear Braces and Power Braces(ordering) Brake Mods: SS brake lines Slotted Rotors Some pics thus far https://goo.gl/photos/RQ2Dby14McbQdtyi6

Saw someone with hooked silver lgt at gas station in nyack, said whatsup. Maybe your on here!

its probably the part number from the manufacturer that subaru gets it from. But thats not subaru part number format. If we can find out the manufacturer of the compressor then we would be on to something!

I'm just trying to get my head around all this. I've never seen such randomness from a car company....

I'm confusing myself i have b25's not d25's!

You used ej257 and d25 heads, did you use stock head gaseket or get something bigger to correct the compression?

Full time parking for cars is almost equal to 1 persons montly rent if your not parking on the street.

The Giants.......sigh...

damnit , i'll go sit in the corner....

Is this a 5th gen only thing?

Saw a blue pearl 4th gen with rims and dual tip exhausts at micro center in cross county.

22670AA381 22670AA380 Are the oem part numbers for the pressure regulator alone, not the entire assembly, it costs about 65-90 online. Most places do not have it in stock, and have to order it somewhere, you may get lucky and find it at local dealership. I got it for 70 bucks at local dealership. I was having issues with idle and startup after changing fuel pump. Takes about 30-60 minutes to change, you will need a philip's head screwdriver, 10mm socket, I used 1/4" ratchet set, and quick disconnects if you have them otherwise you have to remove the other ends. Don't forget to remove the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine until it stalls to remove pressure and to get most of the gas out of the lines.