Tehnation

wouldn't it make more sense to attach the piston to the rod, and then drop the entire thing in? you basically take out an entire step, or am i missing something?

The numbers are definitely for the main journals! Just need to figure out what the numbers mean, i bet they mean something to a Subaru dealership...... but I doubt dealerships work with shortblocks, it's probably cheaper and faster to drop a new one in, take the old and send it somewhere to get remanufactured. So i doubt average service department would know the more i think about it.

Good idea, i don't own one, but i have access to one! If #3 and #5 are thicker then 3 means oversized, or larger journal size.

hmmm.. ive read 2 different translations for that number code on forums, so now i'm doing more research. Doesn't say in the manual, just states that those numbers refer to journal size, like the AB refers pistons size. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32514 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1591930&page=2

So I was reading the fsm.... my bathroom literature and came across something I didn't know which makes things a lot easier for sizing your bearings. Figured i would share, after some googling. So that 5 digit number are your journal sizes, 2 being standard, my block is 22323, 1 means oversized journal, and 3 means undersized journal....i think http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c171/Dudley302/ID.jpg

i still think they are pretty big... most 4 cylinders have 1 cylinder head. it being flat just makes it look like its small i think.

when you lap the valves the compound will grind it out smooth. But it looks like you can get it a bit cleaner. That's all carbon buildup so a chemical could finish the job as well. Brake cleaner?

They just look dirty... i've seen terrible lol, that looks normal!

If the pistons are in good shape why not just change piston rings and move on? and i didn't even notice my cracked ringland until i cleaned them.

let em soak overnight. mine went from this to this

I don't think you should remove it!? How would you get it back in? Would need some kind of sealant at that point. Maybe not , this guy did it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1564919

Man strength! That's pressed in!!

wtf?? does our site do that random linking thing? Your these is a link for me!? Not the first time ive seen it in posts, its really throwing me off... lol

Make sure to recharge yourself!! Only bad things happen when you work tired or exhausted, you're more prone to mistakes and injuries!

With all this subaru mentality that everything is rocket science nonsense, i almost forgot how easy it is to grind/lap and seat a valve..... More power to ya!!! I never even thought to rebuild my heads myself. Its not exactly that complicated either. Valve grinding compound is pretty much all u need..

hmmm.... i think i'm talking about cam gear removal not slowing it down! You need to pull the gears in order to pull the heads. Are you rebuilding the heads yourself? If not, I wouldn't worry about the lashes etc.

Use the old timing belt to wrap it around each side and and then use some vice grips to grip them down http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0172.jpg Something like that

I just used the BFH..... a rubber one.... couple love taps and came right apart for me.

did u use a normal engine hoist? space looks tight.

Take a shit ton of pictures for reference, like your a photographer for Playboy, lol! If in doubt, take a picture. Have plenty of zip lock bags and sharpies for bolts, nuts and misc., group bolts together, and be very detailed with your descriptions on bags. And if you don't already have some get a jug of berrymans dip, to clean any bolts, and or misc metal parts,. Along with some toothbrushes or wire brush. I just drop it in the tray over night, dip it in water, and wipe it off. Or scrub it down and re dip. https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A Or you can pick up a jug at Walmart for same price, but now factor.

Only thing I can think of is particles in the air...... "particulate matter"! High humidity is no bueno!

You also get what you pay for as well! Top grade equipment like Mitutoyo costs $$$, but is more accurate within varying environments. So that kind of stuff is best to borrow from people that invested in quality equipment. Other's who don't have access to them have to make do with something in their price range, basically make the best of what you have.

We are talking about keeping temp constant for measuring tools such as micrometer and bore gage. The more accurate the tool, the more sensitive they are to changes in environment. Nothing to do with hot/cold motor. Everything to do with the precision of the instruments used.

I'd also get a digital temperature gauge for your work table/bench. I have one just to keep me sane, I always look before I do any measurements to make sure everything stays constant, for 20-30 bucks, its worth every penny!! You'd be surprised what a couple degrees will do to readings!