eckseleven

I'm going to get a caliper and take some measurements. Been looking for an excuse to get one for years anyway. Also got the loaner camera today so I should be able to peak inside just for fun. I'm out enough money with this experience so far so I'd like to avoid switching to OEM studs. I'd need to buy new ones and then figure out what do with $40 worth of ARP bolts. I'm leaning towards drilling out the holes in the flange.

Can anyone get an answer to this? I'm told that the dump pipe diameter matches the wheel opening and is supposed to be centered exactly over the wheel. But it seems that if it is the inside diameter that matches the wheel, then it wouldn't be possible to center the pipe over the wheel no matter what since you'll hit that far wall. I guess it doesn't matter at this point, just curious. What I find strange is that the gap between the wheel opening and flapper looks like a good 1/4 of an inch. Right?

I too wondered if the switch to bolts is causing a problem but I don't see how that is possible. The dowel area is enlarged and as far as I can tell matches the diameter of the stud where the threads are. Nameless is telling me to just drill out the holes and try again.

Totally Stainless hardware.

A couple images showing where we suspect the contact point is. First is a random google image. The other is the actual DP. And the actual exhaust housing. Still working out what the exact course of action will be. A coworker is going to lend me his inspection camera so I'll try to look in there at some point this week.

Turbo. Sorry, should have been more specific.

Anyone have a straight-on picture of the exhaust housing?

Sorry, haven't had a chance to upload pics. I know you all are eager to get more details. I drove the car yesterday and after getting back home and turning it off, I heard a loud "PING" a short time later which I can only assume was the flapper freeing and snapping closed as everything cooled. I'm expecting there to be a mark on the DP where the contact point is but obviously I'll have to get everything apart to take a look. Maybe I can snake a camera up there... So for some good news, even with the temporary tune, holy balls does it have some low end punch. I thought the stage 1 protune was good. Can't wait to see what it will be like when the issues are resolved. My clutch is holding so far

A few pictures were sent to me. Don't know how much help they'll be but I'll try to mark on them to show where the issue is. Maybe post them tomorrow.

Well it was a rough day and I wish I had some good news to share after it all but I don't. After they removed the DP, inspected it, and reinstalled with it pushed as far over as possible (there was basically no wiggle room) things appeared good. The flapper could open like normal. So they got it back on the dyno to finally begin tunning. Then after a few pulls, something goes wrong again. This time it appears the flapper is stuck open. Car won't build boost beyond waste gate spring pressure. So the theory is, is that when things warmed up enough, the tubing that extends in to the housing expands just enough to catch the flapper. I'm going to contact Nameless to see how we can proceed. I ended up leaving with a temporary map so the car is at least drive-able. Big bummer though.

Alright, confirmed it's not the rod. Waste gate is functioning properly. It looks like the flapper is hitting the main exhaust exit of the DP. I've asked them to see if there is any wiggle room to shift the whole assembly a bit to try to get it to clear. Not many options if that won't work. Could possibly drill out the mounting holes on the flange to make room [emoji53] I'm surprised no one else had this problem.

Would it be possible to see the rod or where there could be interference with the heat shield with everything installed? They aren't seeing anything wrong so far. DP is still suspect and it should be off soon.

Update - they hooked a hand pump to the line on the actuator and can hear the flapper hitting something. DP coming off for inspection.

So it's not the boost controller or anything related to tunning. It's either the WG actuator or the flapper can't physically open due to a blockage. Car is going on the lift for further analysis. Grr things started out smooth... Sent from my One using Tapatalk

Getting tuned now. May have an issue that we're hoping is something simple. Car is hitting boost cut very easily. Boost controller isn't doing its job OR the waste gate can't open. I've been told that they've seen that with some divorced waste gate downpipes. Since no one else has reported this I'd be surprised if it was the dp. Sent from my One using Tapatalk

Yeah it had maybe a mile and a half put on it. I didn't think they would have a reason to drive it so I didn't mention anything about it needing to be tuned. They're just an ordinary shop; don't specialize in turbo Subarus or anything so maybe they didn't know. The DAM is still at 1.0 so I'm glad to see that. No CELs. Not sure what else to check or if there is really anything to worry about. Going to see what the tuner thinks when I get out there this week.

Couple pics with it installed. Best I could do with car on jack stands. Turns out it bolted up fine to the AVO exhaust with the supplied hardware. No noticeable difference in sound at idle. Haven't opened it up yet because it isn't tuned so no comment there yet. I suspect the shop took it for a joy ride because stuff had slid around in the trunk. [emoji35] Hopefully no harm was done. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/08/053f991844c3e9a181d1454e1bb3ffdd.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/08/87ddcd33dd55ecadfd1cef0ad21cd92c.jpg

Aw beat me to it! I think those numbers aren't far off from typical. What exhaust do you have? I wasn't expecting much more noise. Sent from my One using Tapatalk

Somewhere between 8k and 10k.

Me too. I just hope my 37k mile OEM clutch is up to the task. Tuner is a 3 hour drive away. Would suck to turn around with nothing to show for it.

They do thread on a few turns then stop. So that makes sense then. Thanks! Oh, and tune date set for next Friday

Now that the Group Buy is done and parts are being shipped, some of us are starting the install and the journey to Stage2. Post your pics, thoughts, experiences, troubles, fixes and results here. For a brief summary of parts necessary for, or beneficial to, the install, see Post #1 of the GB thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/group-buy-nameless-performance-2010-legacy-gt-divorced-wastegate-downpipe-243956.html Thanks.... GTEASER Getting mine installed tomorrow. Fingers crossed it goes smoothly. Things are pretty rusty down there and my coolant lines look horrible. Hope they don't get bumped and crack leaving the car stranded on the lift (ordering lines today I hope). I have the ARP bolts and a new gasket ready to go. Going to tell the shop to throw some anti-seize on there as well. Question for anyone that has played around with the nuts/bolts that come with the exhaust parts: does it seem like the nuts won't thread on? I can't do it by hand. It looks like it may be lock nut but unlike others I've seen. Just need to make sure this is correct before I go for install tomorrow. Still trying to get a tune date set. Hoping to have that next week or the week after. Tuner said he wouldn't provide a temp map for me to get there so hopefully his current tune will play nice with the DP until I get there. My goal is to be the first from the group buy to be tuned! Since many of you are waiting, you can live vicariously through me.

I don't agree with the BHP/BTQ quoting that takes place so much here. The dyno is an estimate as is. Why complicate (and potentially skew) the numbers further by applying another estimation to that? If the estimated range of power loss is 25-30%, which do you use? The lower one to make your BHP look better? Both and provide a range (my car makes between X and Y at the crank)? It just muddies the water. Your deltas may not be accurate either since no one can agree on whether or not drivetrain parasitic loss is a constant percentage or if it varies as engine output changes. WHP is the most informative number and the deltas don't lie. It is also the best number to use when comparing cars (assuming they were run on the same dyno) since, like you said, there is quite a difference between transmission types - a 300 bhp manual will be quicker than 300 bhp automatic. WHP is what meets the road and what moves you. One last point, what if you alter the drivetrain in a way that reduces the parasitic loss such as carbon fiber driveshafts? Not only do you not know the exact effect on percentage but now you can't compare to you previous BHP numbers. Again, WHP will still tell the truth here and you can still make valid comparisons. Note - I realize we'll probably not see a carbon fiber driveshaft for our cars; I'm just using it as an example to demonstrate my point. Don't take offense, Perscitus I'm not attacking or directing this towards you specifically. Just challenging the usage of BHP/BTQ on this forum. It just seems to be a useless number that we can't legitimately do anything with.

^ wow that looks really good.

lol. What did he get in it's place?