eckseleven

There was nothing wrong with it, I basically just got tired of it. The noise it makes, while wonderful, does get a bit obnoxious for family car duties (in my opinion). That and I never quite finished the install completely to get it as clean as I'd like. As a side note, the stock intake with mishimoto silicon hoses and silencer delete does actually make some decent noise still.

Yesterday I removed the Cobb SF intake I've been running for 2 years and this morning I reflashed my old 0% WGDC map from my former tuner. Wow, I forgot how much I liked my old tuner's work. The car has such great off-boost response it is hard to tell there is a turbo four under the hood. And this is just the "temp" map. After learning that he is doing e-tunes after closing shop and moving, I plan to finally finish what we started on his dyno years ago. Just need to get my wideband wired up, transition to AP v3, and get logging. I'm excited, but fearful my clutch is not going to hold!

You're making me think I need to start gathering parts for when my clutch goes. I can't believe I've made it to 55k miles on the original. By the way, see my PM?

Thanks! Good guess - 36.5. I'm holding on to the GT at least until the Vette is paid off which will be a few years. My goal for the GT is to just get things in a good, reliable state. Even if that means undoing some modifications. My boost still goes out of control so I either need to finally port the WG or go back to the stock DP.

Mod budget for the Legacy may be a bit impacted now... Picked this up Friday. Been looking on and off for a couple years and finally decided to pull the trigger. It's a 2010 Grand Sport 3LT with 17k miles. Previous owner installed a short-throw and Corsa exhaust. Absolutely love it! The sound this thing makes ripping through the gears is intoxicating. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Me? Cat-back, that is all. Tune was "aggressive" at my request. Tuned to 17.5 psi with aggressive timing.

Also, don't worry about the dyno numbers..different dynos, different days, etc. Can't compare. You'll have a baseline now between old and new tunes so that will be somewhat informative. When first getting a stage 1 tune years ago, mine made 290/350 on a mustang dyno. WTF, right? Gains from stock to protune were still inline what what others had though. Stage 2 STIs made roughly the same numbers on this dyno for reference.

I don't think doing the dyno runs with DAM below 1 is a big deal. It has dropped because the tune isn't healthy and presumably it has dropped to what the ECU thinks is now safe. IMO resetting the ECU to get it to 1 and then doing some pulls could be a bad idea since all that timing will be added back in. I'd just drive it carefully and avoid WOT until your tune date.

^Yep. I don't see why the AVO DP wouldn't bolt right up to the Nameless intermediate pipe since it works in reverse. Who would do that though??? In all seriousness though, the AVO DP is pricey unless you can find a used one for cheap. For the cost of purchasing and swapping, you could get your wastegate ported and have a lot of cash to spare.

Nameless DP will bolt right up to the AVO CBE. cww516 is right about the intermediate pipe that comes with the DP. You won't need it. I purchased just the DP from Nameless for this reason. No adapter needed. AVO CBE is 3" from the Y at the mufflers all the way forward.

I bought this product due to the early claims that it would offer improved boost control and fix boost creep. My focus for this car was basic boltons. I didn't want to mess with wastegate porting or an external wastegate. This product sounded like the perfect solution. The product description was what sold me. If it had been worded a different way or had some fine print ("*your results may vary*") I doubt there would have been such a fuss. Most of us get it, you got to pay to play. And most of us know there is some risk that things don't go as planned. But Nameless was so damn convincing that I can't help but feel mislead. Clearly the BPV is one factor not considered during testing and it really should have been. Hell, they have one in their own lineup which was advertised by Nameless and talked about a lot on this forum while the DP group buy was in progress. I'm sure there are several people in the GB that added the BPV to their order as well. Regarding the flapper interference issue, it is a real problem. It is unfortunate that it wasn't reproduced here. I encourage anyone that does the install to stick with stock studs and be very careful when installing. It may be wise to just do the "hammer mod" anyway. If you would like to use different hardware (totally stainless) definitely do the hammer mod.

So you are seeing 17-18 psi with 0 wgdc? That is good information. That's exactly the behavior I was getting with a 0 wgdc tune. In my early testing with the DP, the experts here and my tuner said I shouldn't see much more than ~11 psi with that tune yet I consistently would see much higher. To me, this is the proof that DP isn't functioning as promised. If the boost runs out of control with only spring pressure, how can it be expected to be in control in all driving conditions, temperatures, and elevations?

Per gear tuning is a great thing to have. Both boost and timing can be adjusted. Had it with my past tuner to keep 5th and 6th dialed back for improved mileage with highway cruising. Not sure Tuning Alliance did it with my current tune but it feels like it. It helps get that last little bit of smoothness out of a tune and keeps the engine happy in all gears. I good tuner should be on top of this capability and be using it in their tunes. Worth it to figure for your trans swap in my opinion. You're going this far, why not

I misspoke here. It would still overboost with my TBE on the temp map. Temps low 40s. Attached is the log that illustrates this (named 'zero wgdc'). Sure can. Here they are. One named 'TA overboost' was the first incident with the new tune when temps dipped (but still quite hot - 80 degrees). The one named 'TA almost overboost' was the second incident after the tune was revised. Here I let off the throttle when I saw 21 psi. For these TA tunes, my configuration is: Nameless DP, Grimmspeed DP adapter, stock mid, AVO axle back, Cobb SF, Rx IC, and Turbosmart Kompact BPV. TA almost overboost.csv TA Overboost.csv zero wgdc.csv

Yeah, I just slapped that intake on without a tune Here is what happened in full: Got DP installed by independent shop. Drove 3 hours to tuner. Car would overboost beyond all control. Tuner discovered interference issues with flapper. I called NP that day and just got the usual "push it forward" line. Tuner reinstalled DP as requested but issue remained. I drove 3 hours back home. This was after being at the tuner's shop from 9AM-7PM I left with a temp map that allowed me to just run spring pressure and -$400(+?) in failed tuning/troubleshooting costs. Tuner sent pictures and details to NP via facebook. I don't think it went anywhere after that. Removed DP myself and tapped dump tube with hammer to make clearance with wastegate flapper. Overboost solved for the time being. Over the next few months I tried various exhaust configurations. Full TBE, stock CBE, and axle backs. In ALL configurations I could exceed wastegate spring pressure; as in 15-18 psi peak. Keep in mind I still had the temp tune with WGDC set to 0% across the board. ...several months pass trying to figure out how to enjoy my car again....discussion on this thread continues with no clear sign of a solution through NP. My original tuner closed shop and left to work for Cobb. I figured things were "as good as they can be" so I went to TA next for an etune. Also added an intake at this time. Car ran fine initially when it was 100+ degrees but as soon as it dropped 70s-80s it would overboost. TA sent me a revised map and things were good for awhile. Then again, as it got colder (30s-40s), I saw boost creeping to 21. I asked for another map revision and that's what she sits now. This was a week ago and haven't had a chance to test again. Hard to believe it has been over a year. I was the first one to have real issues with this DP and initially got a lot of push back on this forum (no offense, guys) that something must be wrong with my tune, my boost control system, etc. No one accepted at first that the DP was to blame. We all wanted to believe what was promised, including myself despite my issues. I spent countless hours under my car changing things, inspecting things for the rest of the group. I spent a couple hundred in new tools to help diagnose as well as new exhaust parts. My car was on jack-stands for days while I got rides to work. Where it is now it seems fine but I honestly don't have a lot of confidence in it. I think jojorios hit the nail on the head. If I had bought a different DP I'd be willing to accept the chaos I've had to deal with. But what I had to deal with was not what I, or anyone else, expected with this product.

That puts you a half psi away from overboost. I bet you would given the right conditions like low temps or a long pull in a high gear. And as you know, changing the exhaust will only make it more likely. Nothing really new for me to report since the last map revision but it hasn't gotten that cold yet. I put my foot in it on a ~40 degree night in 3rd starting at about 3k RPM. I was watching boost with the torque app and boost shot up so fast it probably would have hit boost cut if I hadn't of backed off. I'm not confident in this setup at all as temps continue to drop. I'm beginning to accept that this is just as good as it can be.

I'm tired of Nameless repeating those instructions over and over as if we're a bunch of idiots that are just installing this thing wrong. It's pretty obvious when installing that things are awful tight in there and you need to push it as far forward as possible. Not only that but some of us have fought with this thing for a year. In that time every thing that can be done has been done. And sadly, even after making clearance for the flapper, it will still overboost in some cases.

What is meant by that is to push the DP all the way forward before tightening the bolts. I did this and it didn't help. The solution was deform the dump pipe with a hammer enough to make clearance.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tmic-fan-controller-setup-252877.html

I have a coworker that's nuts for Teslas so I hear about the "benefits" all the time. He has a deposit down on a Model 3. I'm excited to see it and ride it in person whenever that happens but I'm just not sold on them yet. To me EVs just have no soul. It's bad enough our gas burners are becoming more "appliance" like year by year. An EV takes it to a whole new level.

Loving the noises my Cobb intake makes. Anything sound better than stock.

Since porting has been very successful by others (fahr_side is a great resource) I'd say there is good reason to do it despite how it looks. Also, from what I recall a big portion of the porting actually occurs on the other side, not the opening...smoothing out that whole "tunnel" for lack of the technical term, that leads to the opening.

And if you are doing SD, you might as well just throw a filter on the end of the OEM intake tube....

Yes, most likely fine.

Well I'm back in over boost land.... Got around to installing my Cobb intake box this past week and went out tonight to see if my IATs are back down to where they were with the stock intake. Things were looking great. Decided to do a 3rd gear pull starting at 3k RPM. Glad I was logging because she gave up before 5k RPM. It was much hotter when I first started the etune process with TA so that could explain why things looked good then. I sent out my log to see if anything can be done with the tune. WTF