eckseleven

I've hooked a pump to the actuator and verified it works. See a couple posts up with the video. Doesn't that rule out a mechanical problem? Not only that, but I had no problems until the DP was installed. I think it would take a small miracle to develop a mechanical problem in the 500 miles I've had the DP on. Unless the few times it has hit 21psi broke something. It is worth mentioning that I had a smoke test a couple weeks ago and it passed. It's worth a shot to bypass the BCS but I'm not very optimistic. I assume I put the restrictor pill in there in approximately the same spot as it is now? Any idea what size vacuum line I need? I can grab a couple sizes that look about right from the hardware store if not. I appreciate the help, everyone. I really hope to find a solution. This thing just sounds so good and drives great even with my temp tune, I'd hate to revert anything back to stock.

Correct. But a 3 inch exhaust is a 3 inch exhaust. Shouldn't be different flow wise to the other options. It has one resonator and straight through mufflers. What was the temperature when you were overboosting?

I'm curious what the temperature was for them. I believe if I were to get tuned in the spring/summer there would probably be no obvious problem. But when it gets cold no after market DP is going to cure this problem. I thought that this DP being a divorced style would help but that appears to not be the case. Dense air + free flowing exhaust + tiny IWG = Logs do show 0 wgdc. I can post one.

That, and going back to the stock CBE. Please explain how a different tuner is going to solve this. Have I not proven boost control is working correctly? It can't be the tune; it is set to 0 WDGC across the board yet the car still overboosts. And the biggest nail in the coffin is that the car operated perfectly in all temps prior to installing the Nameless DP. I don't see how it could be anything except the two things I pointed out above. I know this sounds argumentative. I mean no offense. I'm just frustrated and disappointed.

Here is a video of me applying pressure to the wastegate actuator. I have an inspection camera tucked up above to see the rod movement. There is a shadow on the dial making the numbers a bit hard to read so know that the first marking is 5 psi. As you can see, around 10 psi the rod begins to move. It continues to move up to maybe 17 psi. Assuming there is some degree of inaccuracy with the pump/gauge, I think this is to be expected. So as far as I can tell, everything is functioning correctly. No mechanical issues. This doesn't come as a surprise to me due to my readjusting of the DP earlier and the fact that the car operated completely normally with the stock DP in all weather conditions. So it seems like there can only be two thing going on now and the cold temperature just exacerbates the problem. 1. The exhaust flows too well. 2. Internal wastegate doesn't flow well enough. So where do I go from here? I'm not porting the IWG and I'm not adding an EWG. Both are just not worth the time/money to me since I don't plan on keeping the car more than a few more years. - I could wait until spring and get the car tuned as is. I imagine it will tune fine in the warmer temps. Come winter I would just need to be careful when it gets below ~40F. Get a boost gauge to monitor what it's doing. Use my right foot as boost control so to speak. This I feel would be a huge pain though. When the car overboosted the one time on the highway, it overboosted within 1000 RPM of me flooring it. That is stupid quick. - Put the stock CBE (or part of it, maybe just mid pipe) back on. This may slow flow down enough that it won't overboost anymore. - Go back to stock DP and be done with this. No stage 2 for me. Thoughts?

I appreciate the offer but that's a bit of a hike for me

Test complete. Video to follow.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/05/5eb6626e865128f52c1df26be6ac39b8.jpg

Well the harbor freight mityvac pump ended up being for vacuum only so I couldn't verify that the flapper can open properly. I'll have to order a better one and retest later. I did get to inspect the lines between the turbo, wastegate, and bcs. It all looks good and and the restrictor pill is in place. With the 65F temp today, I was only able to get about 16.5 psi. Compare that to ~21 psi a couple days ago when it was 30F. We all know temp has an impact on boost, nothing unusual there. I just find it surprising that even with these warm temps I'm still exceeding the wastegate spring pressure by a fair amount.

~21 Going to try that this weekend hopefully.

Correct, still overboosting despite being on mechanical boost pressure. Again, this is what the ECU thinks, so perhaps there is still something mechanically wrong. Innovative tested the EBCS and found no issues. I'm sure some vac lines were removed then reinstalled in the process. I don't know if we have restrictor pills and I wouldn't expect one to fall out or anything accidentally. I'm a noob with some of these parts but I'll take a peek and see if anything looks odd.

Innovative. They've done a few 5th gens but none with this DP. Tune has been ruled out as the issue though so I don't think going to another tuner will get me anywhere. WGDC is set to 0% in my temp tune and the logs confirm that. Some good information here: https://static.cobbtuning.com/support/accessport/docs/Subaru_Boost_Control_System.html

Ok, so that is likely not my problem but we'll see after I hook a pump up. If the wategate checks out fine, then I guess this is just a symptom of the tiny wastegate. Porting or EWG is the only solution and I'm not willing to do either. I'd probably just go back to stage 1 which would be sad

I should add that since others have had good luck installing this DP and actually being able to mitigate over boost, I wouldn't expect there to be serious design issue.

Alright, got a response back. To summarize, his response is basically that one of these things is going on: 1. Flapper still can't move properly. 2. The DP flows too well which is causing extreme boost creep. The cold weather enhances this. 3. Wastegate flow with this DP isn't good. Harbor Fright has a cheap mityvac pump so I guess I'll get that and verify the waste gate can move properly now. If it does, I'm at a loss for what to do next. GTEASER, I think you mentioned someone needing to modify the rod or heat shield around the actuator or something. I'll go back couple pages and reread, but do you have any more specific details? Hopefully something like that is going on now.

I've sent a log so we'll see. But in the discussions I've had so far my current tune should not allow it to exceed 15 psi when the wastegate is functioning properly.

Ugh...over boosted while trying to get a good log.

Got to thinking it was pretty cool. IATs were 48F according to the logs. But would that make the boost that much higher? Going to gather some more logs and send them to the tuner for analysis. I just hope I'm not in the situation where the flapper is mostly free so I'm no longer overboosting but it still can't open fully which causes the spike. I was told with my temp map I shouldn't see much more than 15 psi.

I need to run some more tests but I'm still able to hit about 17.5 psi with boost control set to 0% duty cycle. That doesn't seem right to me.

I got it all back together with studs. I ended up tapping the pipe ever so slightly with a hammer where that scratch is as well. Currently discussing with tuner the safest way to determine everything is operational before heading back out for final tuning. I imagine everything will be fine now. I thought about just putting it back together with the studs and not using the hammer, but I'm really tired of messing with this thing. The wife was running out of paitence and I'm beyond frustrated by this experience so I didn't want to take any chances. So, sorry, we'll never know for sure if it was the usage of the SS bolts or if there was a manufacturing issue that caused my troubles. But to be safe, I recommend everyone use the OEM studs and not the bolts.

Decided to modify the old bracket. For those that do this, you'll need to grind it in two places and make the top holes bigger. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/2dfe07ec8b1977d1c2f8dfc2032ae61b.jpg Also wrapped some paper around the pipe and used it to get an idea of what things looked like in there. As you can see it is a fair amount bigger than the wheel which explains why it could hit the flapper in the first place. One of the Nameless guys told me it was the exact same size which I found surprising since flapper is about a quarter inch a way. Guessing he misspoke. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/b3a6b4197791c6e5034a98c9d7f577b0.jpg Didn't get to put it all back together. Hopefully tomorrow.

Got it off. Took a pic of the scratch were the door was rubbing. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/20/27d0f23e9bf491a7d1435afa1e6c8723.jpg

Going to start today. Just picked up studs and nuts. $$$ ouch. I thought the SS bolts were expensive.

OEM. Pretty sure that's the only one available.

Anyone have part numbers for OEM studs and nuts?

Flange hole size was .4 something. Didn't get a pic. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/e178111fcabc05b91bb37c4751abbafb.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/17/14b2baeeeb7c4ee4f2c4bde925774a32.jpg I noticed some threads were messed up on the bolt I took out. I might be getting studs after all. Guess some one overtightened.