scoobyscoodle

Damn you Arcteryx! lol

I'm sure it LOOKS like new, but the one pic on the posting showing the dash shows a shattered windshield and a driver airbag deployed, which doesn't give me much confidence that the rack wasn't jolted and possibly will have internal damage that will show up later. Maybe it was just in a rollover?

Any concern in buying a rack from a wrecked car? I just may pick that one up.

My money is on the '15 rack being just fine on the VDC legacies. I'm planning on swapping one into my '09 in the next several months.

^I wouldn't worry so much about that as long as it's 100% leak free when tightened.

That's not necessarily true, you can't make the blanket statement that equal f/r camber creates understeer without also taking spring rates, damping characteristics, sway bar rates, bushing compliance, and tire compound into account. And while loading the suspension in a turn the front does not gain camber. Unless you're talking about mathematically gaining in value? (i.e., less negative) With a macP front suspension setup, static camber decreases through the travel range, for example, if you have -1.5 degrees in the front static and you load the suspension, the front outer wheel will have an effective dynamic camber less than -1.5, probably around -1 to -1.2 depending on spring rate. Conversely, the multilink rear suspension will gain negative camber as the suspension loads, the more the rear compresses the more negative it goes.

This is usually a good idea for most people. For a street car I think around 1/32" of toe-in for the rear is perfect. If you're doing a fair amount of tracking though, the car will rotate easier with zero all around. I wouldn't run less than -1 camber in the rear no matter what. If, for example, all you get is -1 out of the front, run -1 all around.

Meh, I'm not really desperate or anything, I've got a PW tmic now, and will be putting in a dom 1.5xtr by the end of the year or so, but at this point I'm pretty much over it, whether it comes out or not. Heatsoak is heatsoak.

I'm seriously considering going with an ETS fmic at this point.

I would usually want to run more camber in the front than the rear, because it will help the car rotate easier and reduce understeer. If you are only using factory camber bolts in front, however, then I would max out the front with zero cross camber (each side the same like you mentioned), zero toe all around, and about -1.2 to -1.5 degrees camber in the rear, depending on what you get from the front. You mention "at least -.5 greater than the front", but I would change that to "at most -.5 more". You should be able to get 1-1.2 out of the front bolts though, so 1.5 in the rear is fine. The WL front LCA caster bushings are adjustable, so you are able to get cross caster to zero as well, which is nice. Aim for 7 degrees caster if you can get it.

I thought the 08+Sti struts bolt directly to the lgt knuckles? Is the bolt spacing different?

That's because we're the mature ones. That's looking excellent guys! And it looks like if you use some vasoline, you can just barely squeeze the crawford aos in there nicely. As for the ports, personally I think you guys should just not deal with it. Makes it easier for you guys, and gives customers more options for their unique setups whether that's meth, SD, multiple nozzles, etc. Looks like you have LOTS of flat surfaces to drill and tap.

Yea I threw wider bars and a shorter stem on it, definitely picked up some confidence on the DH sections. I would like a dropper too but most the money goes towards the car haha. A lot of the trails I ride though are a big climb followed by a big descent, so a dropper isn't crucial. Super fun bike though.

Hey I've got that same bike, picked it up last fall and absolutely love it! Done any upgrades?

Ahh, now I'm depressed I had to pick up the PW, looks tiny sitting next to the GS core. Had to get something in the mean time to finish up my tune, but in the back of my mind I knew I'd be throwing away the transaction cost of switching to the GS a couple months later. And now I'm certain that will happen, oh well. This addiction ain't cheap. Looking good Matt!

I just don't see phenolic spacers making nearly as much difference under a composite lgt manifold when compared to the sti cast one.

I just got one from them like 2 weeks ago.

Doesn't Rallysportdirect have them?

^+1.

What's going to happen to the market price of used non-GS tmic's after the release?

I would definitely at least go for the $25 billet upgrade, but as far as the 64 trim profile, I'm not sure, you'd have to ask 6SS what the exact differences are. Just the oem profile billet one for $25 extra has extended tips, which is nice.

What is the upgrade exactly and who's doing it?

I'd buy a turbo from 6StarSpeed. What's the other company?

Radio? Who needs a radio?! http://thumbs.anyclip.com/tJRnW9bLN/tmb_2412_480.jpg

I'd expect about $900-1000 for everything.