compsurge

I did not know you could remove the screens on them.

Mine popped off when playing with them. I guess that makes them removable

They did pop back on too.

I want to build a cleaning rig like the kind I see on YouTube where the injectors are put on a bench and run forward and reverse flow with injector cleaner.

It was a bad coil pack. Back up and ruining!

QFT. It's only a matter of time on these engines

Good. I would choose the FFCP over the Makerbot any day.

Still waiting on my OpenBeam Kossel Pro. So... Close...

Fujibond Grey. You can use generic Permatex RTV, but the Fujibond has other additives in it to make it better.

Fujibond Red is for the Transmission.

Machined vs. worn would be a difference. I don't remember what mine looked like (I didn't really look closely). Metal will stay shiny if it's machined and oiled, which is the case for most of the engine

Could you make up one of these to fit a jdm dead pedal? Pm me if you want some parts for reference. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145800

What exactly are you referring to? I don't see pics.

For future reference: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1440457&parttype=2284

I got this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4623-Joint-Banding-Cutter/dp/B00063XX5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414763959&sr=8-1&keywords=cv+band+tool]tool[/ame] from Amazon as well.

... getting a SB shipped to your door

That's a good call. By the time you're done fiddling around with that one, you might as well get the peace of mind of a new OEM unit.

You can use vise grips and the timing belt (link) to keep tension on the cam pulleys while you get the bolts out. It worked on two engines for me. Others have had problems. I have a set of good hex sockets and I wouldn't try this without them. If it doesn't bulge, it seems that the answer is to whack the bolt head with a hammer and try again (not kidding).

I don't know about the crank interference. Intuition tells me that's bad news.

Be sure to check out http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/ I found it very helpful for getting part numbers to order from Heuberger.

That oil cooler coolant hardline is actually not too expensive if I remember, but rust isn't a big deal - most all of it is surface rust and is not a fully-rusted component.

Is there any significance to having some of these hard lines? Would it be okay to replace with silicone hoses? And if heat is a problem where these hard lines are then could i wrap them? I just don't justify doing a build and then putting rusty lines back in like this one off the oil cooler

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/b1a7083faf2d7d9763ec7329383a6fa8.jpg

 

And what about these hard breather lines and coolant lines can't I just replace with silicone?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/29/06657e24d8f7f420727fbe9ec6b64cc7.jpg

That hard line is one of the most important parts of your engine. Don't fuss with it. You can scotchbrite and paint it to make it look pretty, but it serves to pass coolant through the oil cooler (top) and turbo (I can't quite make it out of that's the right location). If you must swap it out, use braided stainless steel hose rated for the temperature as to avoid kinks or collapse.