compsurge

WHEEL WIGHTS ON THE RIM OF BBS WHEELS!!!! Blasphemous!

Hey now, they were $60.

What is your fuel pressure? Are your injectors flowing well?

What code(s) do you get?

The sound could be the misfires.

Have the plugs been changed?

If none of the aforementioned trouble shooting steps have worked, I guess you should get a compression test and leakdown test.

It's my pleasure, clipse.

 

Thanks for your understanding as well that I just wanted to share my experience and want others to know that there's this still evolving technology out there.

 

I love new gadget, I don't mind being the guinea pig, if the product works or works but need improvement then I will be happy, if not then I will probably try other product again. Life still goes on. I'm an open minded person. Some people here, mind you just thinking if it looks different, they have already judged it will definitely not work, not engineered to work blah blah.. Take note there are other e-superchargers here that exactly looks like the typical supercharger but it doesn't generate as much pressure as my SC now. So can't judge them just by the looks.

Look at Tesla, did anyone even expected that their car will be even faster than some supercars using different technology?

 

I rest my case. I will probably think twice to post any modifications that I will have again in the future.

 

I hope that I've help other N/A owners as well in some ways.

Some of us have engineering degrees and experience in designing compressors and are perfectly capable of looking at something and telling you it doesn't work.

I'm trying to come off as having an ego, just telling you some of us do, in fact, know what we are talking about.

If someone was so inclined they could just as easily tune the ecm to run with the esc all the time depending on boost levels or use an ebc to control pressure.

I'm not arguing electric supercharging as a viable method of temporary forced induction.

My argument is the product in this thread is designed to take advantage of unsuspecting buyers who don't know any better.

Any meaningful boost will require a large motor - in the case of the Phantom, 4kW (5.4 HP). To run the ESC continuously at boost, the alternator would have a horsepower extraction greater than 5.4 HP. If running low boost for a long period of time, the extraction would be less. You could run a combined cycle of full boost from battery and then charge the battery during low boost, but this would put a lot of stress on the battery and it would significantly reduce its life.

The reason the Phantom works is because it has an engineered supercharger compressor bolted to a electric motor that is up to the task. It draws a large amount of current (167 Amps at the rated power) for a set duration before the battery must be recharged. To put this into perspective, the LGT has a 110 amp* 12V alternator, which can generate at peak 1/3 of what is required for just the Phantom.

While the Phantom battery is separate from the main car battery, it adds an additional electrical load to the alternator. This in turn, does result in larger horsepower extraction for charging, however it is not quantified since we do not have an exact charging rate aside from the (8:1) charge time to runtime ratio.

*based on previous threads. Some have said they have 70 and 90 Amp. I honestly do not know.

Perhaps you can enlighten us as to how forced induction cannot add power to a engine.

 

Btw how many of you naysayers are aware that audi is bringing an electric turbo charger not unlike this to production to decrease lag.

Forced induction can add power to an engine... The Phantom and Audi systems work because they are engineered to work. The product in this thread isn't engineered.

The compressor on this "supercharger" looks like it is more suitable for slowly circulating water, not compressing air. There is no variable geometry on the blades to indicate it is even worthy of the term variable.

The naysayers in this thread aren't ill-informed. They know better. I would expect an Audi system to be engineered, not stamped sheet metal inside a simple housing.

Case in point:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=207216&d=1429675337

Doesn't work. Never will.

http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/uploads/1/2/4/9/12496102/1047989.jpg?874

Works for a little bit, then you need to recharge the battery.

This product does absolutely nothing except waste money. If you tune any car, it will almost definitely give better performance.

This product is pure crap.

I read post #1 and then decided to skip the entire thread to post this.

If you don't understand why, you need to research basic physics and energy.

So like some others in this thread I put a pin hole in the passenger side boot while trying to remove the old suspension and install coilovers on my 2014. Gonna be installing a brand new cv assembly since I couldn't seem to find an outer boot kit for my car. Just want to clarify some things from reading this thread;

 

1) to avoid having diff/tranny fluid spill, raise the front of the car a good amount? Both tires or just the side I'm working on?

 

2) when removing/installing the axle from the tranny, is the idea to keep it as straight as possible? Is it really that tough to avoid hitting the seal?

Here's the parts: http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2014&modelName=legacy36l-5at-4wd36r-sedan&ukey_assembly=6024673&ukey_category=54106&assembly=b14-280-02

5 gallon fuel containers offer plenty of reserve for most automotive fluids. Just plumb lines

(Actually, that's a terrible idea)

Have they checked the injectors?

What was the result of the leakdown test from the dealer? Any competent or honest dealer wouldn't think about suggesting a valve job without proof. If they offered a $4k job without proof that the valves were not sealing, they should be reported to SoA.

Have you changed your spark plugs? Intermittant misfires can often be caused by weak or poor spark. I'd do this before spending anything else. NGK SILFR6A or LFR6AIX/LFR6AIX-11 gapped correctly (0.030"). ONLY use NGK plugs and ONLY use one of these part numbers. Buy from one of the forum vendors and you will get the correct part.

I assume you are having a shop do all the work?

That would be awesome. Where in DE are you?

 

I was planning to go buy a dremel to do it and then hand sand it. Honestly I need to buy a dremel either way.

I'm in Wilmington. I have a Dremel as well. They have their uses, but for most anything a 4-1/2" angle grinder is the better choice

What is it? Is it a JDM part for the LGT?

Honestly, it's a factory part. You'll waste your time scanning and 3D printing it. The factory part will be better, stronger, and be within spec.

EDIT: Buy one if this is the right part: http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=49311283&ukey_assembly=6022950&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

Harbor Freight has o-ring assortments. As long as they are good for gasoline they should work.

$8 for a few hundred or so