compsurge

hay guys. shot in the dark here. i have bought a 97 legacy gt (twin turbo ej20) and the guy i got it from says it has blown 3 coil packs in a row in number 1 cylinder sounds a little more serious than it should be. he did a plug change and fresh fuel after car sat for a couple years. the coil pack went dud as soon as he tried to start it. from what i have read on here and other forums it should be pretty straight forward. i have bought car unseen except for pictures and his description (rookie i know) just wondering what it could be really.

 

 

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thats what the coil packs look like. any help would be greatly helpful.

Sounds like an electrical issue. Check for proper fuses/relays and look for bad wiring (grounds, exposed wiring, short circuits, etc.). Also inspect the harness that the connects to the coil packs.

A car that has sat may have had animals eating at the wiring insulation. Be sure the oil and coolant is also changed before turning it over.

Wow I'm so glad to find this post! I've only owned my car for less than a month now but this dash rattle has been driving me nuts.

 

So I keep reading about these vacation pics, but I have no idea where to look for them. Anyone have a link?

 

BTW why are they called vacation pics?

Because vacation pics. Try this next time to search this site: "[Google search query] site:legacygt.com"

My PS outer boot is letting little drops of grease out from two small holes that appear to be from mechanical damage rather than age and deterioration. I have the Beck Arnley replacement boot and the banding tool.

 

The factory manual says the outer joint on my 2005 OBXT can't be disassembled, implying I'd have to remove the non-leaking inner joint and slide the new boot over that end.

 

Andyjo's post above seems to be saying that once the axle is out and the boot is off, I should be able to drive the joint (which I'm interpreting the descriptions to mean is a ball-and-cage style) off the shaft with a large punch? Does this mean the entire joint and outer stub come off as an assembly, or does the outer cup slide off, leaving the greasy ball and cage parts? Is it reasonably straightforward for someone who's very mechanically experienced?

Sorry for the delay. I had no problem doing the outer boot with the axle still installed in the transmission. I removed the axle nut and unfastened the control arm via the strut mount bolts. The process for booting is the same as the inner CV joint. I might have used a rubber mallet in the process, I don't recall. It was very straightforward.

Be sure to buy a 32mm socket (get a metric Harbor Freight set on sale) and an impact gun (Kobalt/DeWalt) Best $180 spent ever.

I wouldn't mind helping you compare the exhausts. The problem is finding the time to do it though.

What is time? I can barely find time to edit my Costa Rica photos

If you have a wagon, there's a post midway through these pages that show a DIY for making the adjuster a bit longer so that it works. If you have a sedan, it's not too short.

 

Edit: here it is - http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3847249&postcount=144

Someone used my tool!

Needle nose pliers should work as well, but in my experience it was a blind operation; mainly due to me not figuring out how to get the carpet completely out

So just to clarify... It is a M10 X 1.25 X 29mm. At Napa, it's a wheel stud for a 1994-2000 Metro.

 

Does it matter which way the lower perch faces on the rear Koni's?? Doesn't seem like it would... I wasn't to careful about the orientation on the first one.

 

Side note: The black bolt provided by Koni to secure the bottom of the insert in the strut assembly was cracked across the bolt head from the center to the edge Didn't notice it until the assembly was completed...

I'm not sure if the Metro wheel stud is correct. The proper size is the one that matches the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the nut on the current top hat.

The lower perch shouldn't matter, but I like symmetry. The spring will compress and rotate into place. If it doesn't, a few good bumps should seat it. You really want new top hats, as the new rubber won't squeak like the old, worn rubber might.

Looks like I forgot that the Geo Metro was not correct. I found my post from earlier. If you haven't gotten new top hats (like you should), buy them from Tire Rack for $25 or face squeaks of death). Take them to the store and compare the stud.

From #121:

wheel stud for 3/8" spacer is M10x1.25x29mm. You can get them at NAPA

That doesn't fit. Unless you have a Suzuki.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Subaru-Legacy-AWD/CV-Axle/_/N-jngwlZ6o2dc

You want the Duralast 7336 (60-7355) part, not the 60-7336. The Duralast has gotten good reviews here. If it gives you a problem, take it back and get a replacement.

It was one of the first mods I installed on the car. I removed the engine for a clutch install last year. I could have damaged the mount on reinstall, with it fatigue failing over time. If that is the case. I only think the mount is suspect after I remembered that I had to tighten it up to stop the mount from spinning. I can't recollect how much the mount was spinning though.

Again, I'll have to take it out and investigate it first. I have a lot of new free time on Fridays...

I have to go loosen everything up and see if it is indeed broken. I don't think the poly should rotate by hand.

I have some more vibration, some odd chattering, among other symptoms. Typical knock sensor giving me pulled timing in the zone with clutch engagement. It's either that or I have a broken ringland. Or just the world's noisiest engine lol.

The last time I saw those silvers, I was in awe at how immaculate they were.

I'm still rocking the BMB Gold.

Looking for an inexpensive TMIC... does that even exist???

I have an IPR. I don't know if it meets your qualification for "cheap".

Joy rides?

That should fit in back of your wagon on the shag rag.

Get the Autozone one as suggested. Hassle-free returns at a local shop always beat having the car out of operation while you wait on an Internet exchange. Next time I have an issue, I'm just going to get the Autozone one. The cost of the axle with the core return negates the cost by saving my free time.

I've rebooted both front axles (one inner, other outer), but I noticed the issue very early on and did not suffer damage as a result. I highly doubt I'll need to fix it again.

Someone sell me a dashboard without cracks in it And shifter trim.

kthx.