compsurge

With our powers combined...

For reference, you won't need a new conical washer or dust boot. The bump stop is likely fine, but you might as well replace it. Do get a new Subaru OEM top hat and spring perch for the fronts and the new top hat/mount for the rear (KYB from TireRack is fine). Do not buy anything else from TireRack. Their KYB dust boots don't fit and they won't accept a return for full price.

did I miss somehting not reading all 50 pages? What modeling tools are used to design these parts? Are the parts being shared or this is a list of who's making what?

 

It's a free-for-all right now. Some of us have modeling tools such as SolidWorks, Autodesk Fusion 360, Sketchup, Blender, NX, CATIA, etc. I think the idea is to request someone print a part on the first page.

 

We definitely should look into making a repository (Github? Thingiverse?) for files if we want to make it an open source project.

 

Page 1 has a post with a list of people in it. I know Discojon has current CNC routing capabilities and a Lulzbot TAZ 5 printer.

 

I have a 3D printer as well if anyone needs a job done, send me a PM.

 

If we really get into this, I can look into making molds for casting urethane or making injection molds (we'd need to find someone with a injection molding machine).

Valve porting AMIRITE?

 

Sounds awful. Hopefully it gets fixed proper and there was no damage to the camshaft as a result.

Byron, how close are you to Macungie, PA? Guy there runs a yard that puts out a ton of 6mt swaps if interested.

 

What is the going rate from that yard?

I had a bad misfire and couldn't rev high once. I found it to be a cracked spark plug. Sometimes the problem is a simple fix!

In for CFD analysis.

There is a mixed school of thought on ARP studs. I think the OEM bolts are fine for use and one forum member was running them on a 580hp build if I recall correctly. You can't go wrong with ARP, but the stock bolts are reusable and on a mild or stock build, I see no reason to spend the extra money. The OEM gasket is fine unless you need a thicker one to account for machining of the head.

 

Please (and this goes for everyone else) remember that if you have a CEL, especially flashing one, don't reset the ECU until the problem is resolved. The ECU doesn't just throw codes for the fun of it. Resetting won't solve your problem and you lose valuable troubleshooting information.

Shot in the dark, did anyone have the model for the E brake boot frame complete? I can print it, I'm just waiting for my caliper to come in.

 

That's a great part to have in a shared repository - I'm pretty sure I/PO broke mine when removing it. Maybe we should start collecting these files to Thingiverse or some other site?

If you are footing the bill, it will cost more to reboot it. If you have a problem with the remanufactured shafts, take it back and the shop will fix it. If the original axle boot has allowed a lot of water intrusion, especially during winter with salted roads, you might as well just replace it because the bearings will likely have corrosion.

 

My preference is to reboot the shaft, but I do the work myself and the extra time for the fix is not worth the added expense for an entire new shaft (versus a boot kit).

It is honestly such a simple part that you could probably just use Sketchup. The hard part is getting the arc correct and all you need is a set of calipers.

I'll see if I can get mine out and model it. Do you need it printed too?

Unfortunately no. I've tried to message the original post owner but to no avail. It's uploaded to shapeways.com but I couldn't get it to download from there either.

 

Link - http://www.shapeways.com/product/8Q62ZNK79/switch-plate-for-4th-gen-legacy-smaller

 

Do you have a thread link?

You can print your own Lulzbot head. The files are on their site http://download.lulzbot.com/

Rear wheel bearing isn't bad at all. You might need some penetrating oil. I just used a hammer and some spare bolts to get the old one out when it was rusted up.

 

Have a wire brush on hand to clean the area before installing the new one.

 

Do pay attention to the ABS sensor. It has a habit of getting into places it shouldn't.

Yes. You will probably need to hang it loosely by the top two nuts when installing, get the bottom bolt in and then tighten up the fasteners. You will likely need a jack for getting the rear control arm to the right height.

Do you have the right spark plugs for your car?

What is the CEL code?

 

Did you mis-shift and overrev or did you hit the rev limiter before shifting?

You can make saggy butt spacers with a holesaw, jigsaw and a hand drill / drill press. HDPE was about $12 for a 12"x12" 3/8" thick piece from McMaster-Carr.

Any 12V source should work. The ignition switch turns the main power relay off so the ignition switching on will also act as a remote on. At least that's how I think I wired mine.

For $3 it is worth buying and trying.

Coil pack, plugs, and injector are the first things to check.

 

Start by inspecting the plugs for damage. When have they been changed?

 

Swap Coil pack next and see if the misfire follows to the cylinder you swap to. Then swap injectors to see if it follows. If the code follows during a swap, replace that coil pack/injector.

 

A bad ground will cause any number of issues. They may or may not be related. At least you have some place to start. Check all engine harness connectors as well. Lok for the bonding wire that goes between the engine and the chassis as they have a tendency to break down over time.

Can you do the same with a drill and the OEM part? the OEM parts are too cheap to justify 3D printing.

got under the car today and the starter seems totally accessible from under the car. Not as convenient as from the top. Has anyone tried to get it out from under the car? Mines an outback so im not if the raised suspension has anything to do with more clearance for the starter.

 

Tried to remove my intercooler to no avail, that right hose is attached so tight/grippy even after loosing the ring around it fully so im looking for other less evasive alternatives now.

 

I get it out from below.

It will work, but expect to get in there again to fix it with a thicker grease. /experience.