seabass07

Not ford fans, just not fanbois. You're delusional about your car and everyone who ever loved you was wrong.

Considering the mustang weighs about the same as an lgt and has over 150hp more than a stock lgt and nearly the same with torque, your friend doesn't know how to drive.

Have you tried PMing him on romraider.com?

If you're using a clutch, you've got the wrong thread.

There would also be a lot more noobs asking questions in the wrong places. There are plenty of forums like that...it gets old.

Log and find out.

Sounds like it's toast. Needs a rebuild most likely.

Timing gets pulled, but boost stays steady.

I've flashed so many revisions and never noticed anything. On the SI models, it could be different considering the correlation between boost control and requested torque, but for the non-SI models, I don't know of anything. It could just need time to adapt to increased power.

But flashing the ecu will not reset the tcu. There shouldn't be any tcu relearning time after an ecu tune at all.

Could just be your gut reacting to the mc donalds.

It depends on how you're driving it. If you're beating on the car, 15k should be fine. If not, 25-30k should be fine.

The pan only holds around 4 qts, but there are around 6 qts still left in the rest of the transmission. When a cooling line got a pin hole with my car, I lost about 8qts of fluid. The only warning I had of a problem was when most of it was drained and the car would barely move. Talk about a heart attack...

No, it's working normally now. Just no twitching when I turn off the car.

Mine went away completely. Weird.

Torx bit is for the front diff IIRC. You don't wanna drain that and then dump 4qts of atf in the transmission...

I've found that without a thermostat, the atf fluid will not fully heat up with commute driving and low temps. I don't think my temps got over 130F last time I logged it. It was in the 40's out (i think) and I was driving very old lady like. Again, this is not going to damage anything, but it will change the way the TCC engages. No TCC engagement means less power making it to the wheels. Once you start beating on the car, the temps will rise. This all depends on how you're driving. Without an external cooler, it took back to back 3rd gear pulls in hot weather to get my atf higher than I was comfortable with. If you aren't beating on your car in hot weather, you may want to log some atf temps to see whether it's even worth it. Either way, the best option is to add a thermostat. Best of both worlds.

A thermostat would be a good idea. You won't notice any problems from overcooling. It will most likely only lower your mpg from the torque converter staying unlocked longer when it's cold. It won't damage anything, just mess with efficiency.

remove the transmission, hold down teh reset button for 10 seconds, put it back together.

The only time this is normal is when you are accelerating somewhat hard and then abruptly let off of the gas right before it shifts. I assume you were attempting burnouts in the walmart parking lot, because walmart.

Not to mention stage 2 with no tune...that can give you 99 problems, including a bitching wife.

Pretty much. The torque converter is last because it is the major heat creator.

It goes from the torque converter to the cooler, then to the pan.

That only happens to me in sport mode. Under heavy braking, it downshifts and helps out.

Trying not to make another tranny joke...must...refrain...