seabass07

During day to day driving, I think it is pointless unless you are just trying to avoid the car jerking. But it would be smooth and take load off of the transmission when towing or when high rev downshifts are necessary to keep brakes from overheating. If I remember correctly, the front brake has very few frictions/steels compared to the other clutch packs.

I tried rev matching, but when you come to the top of a hill going 50 and see a red light at the base and there's a 4k lbs trailer in back, you think oh shit and slam on the brakes and downshift. I don't think I did too much damage, but some of those downshifts definitely made some clutches shudder. I doubt I did anything harmful, since it still works fine. It scared the hell out of me though. After it happened the first time, I got into the habit of slamming on the brakes as hard as I could while downshifting for engine braking. I usually didn't have enough time to rev match since giving it a little gas is counter productive when you need to slow the f**k down fast. When I say I'm worried about the engine braking I was doing on the trip, I'm specifically referring to the downshifts. I know once it's engaged it can take any abuse I can throw at it.

I hope engine braking isn't bad for it. I did a hell of a lot of it while towing a 4k lb trailer for 4500 miles. A couple of times I was able to make the trans shudder on engine braking, but only under intense engine braking slowing to a stop at the base of a steep hill. I definitely tested the limits of it, but it took a LOT of force for it to shudder. I was under the impression that the front brake didn't actually do anything other than engine braking, but according to the manual it is used for engine braking under 1,2, and 3. And it also holds power for 3rd, 5th and R always. I'm surprised that you were able to destroy it without crazy engine braking though. Maybe it wore out during 2-3 shifts. If I remember correctly from your info on the front brake, it contained less frictions/steels than other clutch packs.

The simple answer is try to match your stall speed close to your peak torque. You want to have your peak torque at your stall speed with as much of your torque curve after the stall speed. The main reason is that when at WOT, if your peak torque is below stall speed, then you are wasting that power. With a bigger turbo, it isn't a bad idea to have a higher stall speed. It will also make you forget that it might be slow to spool by bringing the engine to higher RPM. IOW, it's only worth it to me with an aftermarket turbo that has a lot of high end and spools at higher rpm than the stock TC.

OBXT 5eat car year? 05 06 07 08 09 IPT VB mod already performed? Yes or No Are you willing to pay close to but less than IPT prices (perhaps again) for a proper shift kit modification performed by fellow 5eat performance enthusiast ClimberD himself? Hell YES!!! Like everyone else who has tried to research IPT and come up with no info, I'm extremely grateful that you have gone through this trouble. Great work. It's great to know how this compares to the transgo kit that is a fraction of the price. It would be perfect if you could get a floater or two so we can have zero down time for install and send you a core. I thought you were concentrating on a standalone controller for the 5eat. Is that on hold now with this project going on?

I think that's foil tape...

Post links to this thread in his for sale threads in other forums...that will annoy the hell out of him. And ask him annoying questions like "are these more stolen parts you're selling?". Glad it all worked out.

Just playing devils advocate here...we don't know his situation. It is a small possibility that he has a drug addict sibling or something like that that used his computer when he was away to do this. Or maybe he's been cornered and is just making shit up...Regardless, he can figure out who this hypothetical internet mastermind is and get the money back. He just needs a reminder that his address has been posted.

I think he meant that it was stupid for the scammer to readily give out his address. It is pretty stupid. It leaves a pretty good trail.

LGT's Prodrive technology = sporty shifting paddles. It's impossible to pretend that you're driving an F1 car without them. Where's my $5?

And ecuflash definitions are up to date?

I think the issues with win7 were all with the 64bit. I have it working flawlessly on win7 32bit. It didn't give me a single problem. You just have to make sure the drivers are the newest version. Also remember to make sure you do a fresh reboot before you mess with the ecu. If you're like me, you just close the laptop and let it hybernate instead of shutting down windows. I have had the computer freeze once while doing a test write to the ecu when I didn't reboot for like a month. It made my heart stop!

So I guess it doesn't? I just assumed...

It is at least better than jbweld... Did this cause any fitment issues with the engine cover?

Lance is insanely generous! I don't know how he can manage so much and still be so willing to answer every question in excruciating detail!

Thanks! It's going to take a little while to digest all of this new info! Looks like I'm going to need to brush up on my mostly lost programming skills for this one. I'm thinking this may be a nice alternative to building up the transmission.

Where is this megasquirt forum? When I went to megasquirt.com....well let's just say I had to do a bit of explaining when my wife walked by...

If my engine dies out of warranty after I move to Washington, I'll be calling you.

F****** bastard has a Porsche engine on the shelf just hanging out! I hate you!

I agree that increased heat from the solenoids is negligible. It is probably not enough to raise the temps by a degree. I feel like the fluid is thinning out after I beat on it. But I'm using stock fluid with who knows how many miles on it. I'm glad to know that I can actually check it now.

That's exactly what I was wondering. But the more I think about it, the more I realize that if the solenoid is capable of 1690 kpa (what ever the hell that is), then increasing the minimum to 600 or 700 will probably have no negative effects. It would create more heat, but that would be negated by the reduction in heat from the clutches. It would be great if we could get that 1st gear launch pressure in all shifts.

So it would add more holding force during normal operation? Very interesting.

How do you think the resistor will effect the minimum line pressure? I'd hate to put a constant strain on everything by increasing the "resting" line pressure.

Oops...didn't realize it was Cobb. Reading comprehension FTL.

It depends on what they did. You may be able to use ecuflash to read the rom and change just the RC tables, then write it back keeping your tune exactly as it is.