Perscitus

Why not just buy the correct crank pulley tool? http://www.jatmotorsports.com/subaru-crank-pulley-tool/

...or am I missing something?

Yeah, we tried that @ AZP Installs and no luck. Its easy enough to take the stock pulley off (with or without the Subaru tool) but to put a new one on (even stock) is nearly impossible on the H6. No room and little to any chance to 'make' room without removing the radiator, fans/shrouds, and potential even more sections of the front end.

 

Now, with this home-grown tool, it should be possible to hold the new pulley in place to torque down the crank bolt from either the bottom or the top along the engine. I'm going to wish for some children's hands when we do it, but should be able to pull it off.

 

LGT and 2.5i have much more room to work with up front.

The crankshaft pulley tool I got is called 'XtraTorq'.

Found a dead listing for it on eBay now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTRATORQ-UNIVERSAL-CRANK-CRANKSHAFT-PULLEY-HOLDER-HOLDING-TOOL-27-5-LONG-/121314786951?nma=true&si=TbOkjqKO5RmyziBcXZ1YmMLF98A%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

When the LWCP comes in, I'll give this thing a shot for the re-install.

 

XtraTorq Universal Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool

 

· Heavy Duty 27.5” Long Steel Chain

· Locks All Pulleys Up to 7.5” Diameter

· Will Not Slip or Damage Grooves

· Attached 1” Wide Natural Cowhide Band

· Fits All Domestic and Import Vehicles

· Includes 1/2” Drive Receiver

· Use with Your 1/2" Drive Wrench

· Use a Breaker Bar, Ratchet or Torque Wrench

 

(Please Note: This tool does not include a ½” drive wrench)

STOP Trying “Starter Bumps” that Damage the Ring Gear

STOP Jamming with Pry Bars that Slip and Strip the Gears

STOP Using Impact Wrenches and Guessing the Torque

I didn't think $700 was that bad. Some people spend more than that on just tires. More for the piece of mind especially if your mashing around an automatic. I guess a week without a car might be difficult for some.

That's cool you guys already knew though. I'm out of the 3.6 loop. Well actually I might haven't even been on the site yet.

Yes, its not bad at all but reading people's reviews I decided it would be too harsh for me. I'd love to send my valve body to the forum member/vendor from Texas who does the so-called 'F1 mod'. We exchanged a few PMs a while back and he's never done a 5th gen 5EAT. I might bite on the IPT offer in a year or two but for now, I just flush (partially flush) the ATF every second or third oil change and call it a day. All of the ATF is synthetic by now and the tranny is running great. No overheating, no jerkiness. Was going to install a cooler but put that off for now as well. I don't track or auto-x the car and usually only drive it on weekends.

Few pics from this afternoon after a quick wash. They were taken with an iPhone, so they aren't the highest resolution and it was cloudy but you can still see how glossy it is. A good friend of mine did a full paint correction recently, followed by an application of Opti-Coat 2.0. ENJOY!

That looks amazingly good! Great job.

Any chance your friend can be my friend? I'd love for someone to help me do the same but the pro shop prices I've been quoted are hair raising.

Willing to pay but don't want to sell my kidney.

Oh the good ole vice grip with a chain. That works perfect for the CP. Usually wrap a towel or something around the CP before clamping this down.

Actually bought it for a head gasket project for my old 97 legacy gt like 6 years ago and it has definitely come in handy multiple times.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-locking-chain-clamp#

 

Almost forgot the whole reason I opened this thread.

Got to thinking today about the 3.6r since it had the 5eat there should be some sort of valve body mods available.

Sure enough here's a place that mods all 5eat valve bodies.

There is also threads on here for valve body mods but nothing mentioned newer models, maybe old threads its just what came up with a google.

Here's the link to the shop.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/subaru-modified-valve-body/5eat-valve-body-modification-service-all-with-five-speed-automatic-click-here-if-you-cannot-find-a-shift-kit-for-your-wrx--subaru-5eat-1966.html

Ha wouldn't you know its in jersey too.

Thats almost exactly it - but the chain I got seems just a bit different, with the leather belt worked into it on one side and a locking mechanism built in too.

 

Good stuff, yep we know IPT and reach out to them a year or two ago.

They could do our Valve Bodies but needed to have it off the car and into the shop plus the cost was a bit up there. I passed, for now lol.

Its coming my way!!!!!!

 

お問い合わせの件

 

Hello - Thank you for your message We can sell for you [s138 crank pulley]

1 piece, 1set is 15% discount

And fright cost is about USD30 / 1set

If 20-30 set order is more discount When 20-30 set order can color change Silver , red , black , orange , purple , and more... OK Please let me know your question Best regards

 

Great thing with this one is if I can confirm it fits and can be installed without much pain, it will fit 3.0R and 3.6Rs, across 4th gen, 5th gen, 6th gen, Tribeca and Outbacks too.

Will do Fred. I've been checking my email and so far (you guessed it) - silence (pronounced in French by Pepé Le Pew).

I can only wish Fredrik! For now I've got English, Polish, intermediate French, getting started on German.

Would love to learn Russian, Arabic, Japanese and Spanish.

Google translate - I translated the whole form.

Name, email, email again, subject (some bullets; I chose RFQ), body.

Then a couple approvals and done.

Yes - its a complete PITA. I've tried four shops (including AZP) and they all gave up trying to install a CP.

 

Taking the stock one is easy enough, although there is almost no room to work with on the H6. But putting a new one on is a royal PITA.

 

However, a few months ago I found and purchased a great CP removal/install tool that consists of a chain wrapped in leather. I've tried looking for it now, can't find it online so I'll snap some pics when I can and try to find it again by manufacturer/name.

 

With this tool, it should be possible to secure the new pulley in place without lifting the engine and/or removing the radiator and whole front section of the car.

Same size, this is stock size, no under-drive.

Ashamed to say I've lost my UR LWCP somewhere (can't find it since Sep/Oct last year).

Received a classic face-palm reply from UR when I told them earlier this year.

So... to redeem myself, I decided to search the interwebz a bit today for something similar....

 

Behold!!! A true EZ36D LWCP from Japan, complete with a lighter crank bolt cover, matching OEM!

http://www.prs.jp/products/detail_S138.html

 

Google translate tells me:

 

"Lightweight aluminum crank pulley to be installed easily, improve the response. Shaving super duralumin + in anodized finish, performance has become higher, dress-up effect of course"

 

* weight / genuine: 1562g (3.44 lb.) / PRS: 696g (1.53 lb.)

That's only 45% of the original weight

Granted URs design was super light @ just 0.75 lb. but just a prototype without the four bolt guides like the proper H6 unit here!!!!

Would've been nice though at just 21% of original weight.

 

* Support vehicles

Subaru Legacy BM / BR EZ engine equipped vehicles

Subaru Legacy BL / BP EZ engine equipped vehicles

* Reference wage (aim) 5,400 ???

*Part Number: S138

* 21,384 yen price (tax excluded price: 19,800 yen)

$210 ($194 without tax)

I have already sent them an email asking for a sample, test order.

Plus if all goes well, a GB price.

...

Beautiful Eugene! красивый, ошеломляющий, страстный!

Rob is the man! That's awesome Fredrik.

#s look very much in-line with my tune results.

 

I'm @ 223whp and 280 wtq (avg 228 wtq).

221 whp/wtq @ 5250RPMs

 

Reading the latest plots I think you're' basically in the same exact spot!

Notice the nice bump in the low and mid-range torque and the horsepower flattening above 5.2K RPM?

Its likely more of an Ecutek etune using their cable and protune software.

 

A great option for anyone away from Ecutek master tuners and dyno like Fredrik mentioned above.

 

For us Rob, since AMR and others are local... Its easier to just stop by. No need for the cable and software in this case.

Cool idea for anyone with coilovers:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2330815

Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin. So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.

Yes, I think this will work Chris. Give it a shot and see how you like it. Unlikely you'd see any additional or abnormal tire wear with this setup and your suspension.

 

Yes and no. No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error. Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.

Some expert advice above, thanks! Yes, I also agree on this. Thick enough spacers have the same effect as a low offset, and if the rim/tire setup is kept the same, the effect is more pronounced than when a wider rim, thicker tire ends up pushing the wheels in and out to a similar degree.

Yes sure you can request them.

 

Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around.

Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking.

 

Stock suspension you can only affect the front camber, and if need be, using camber bolts to dial in or out more.

 

For the rear you cant adjust it without new control arms, or camber caster adjust bushings.

Yes, that would be perfect Chris.

You can also try the inverse (-1.4 to -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 back).

 

Yes, the FSB/RSB setup is fine. I have the same exact setup and dial-in.

RCE Blacks + Bilstein Combo

 

Front Toe L/R @ 0.00

Front Camber L/R @ -1.4

 

Rear Toe L/R @ 0.00

Rear Camber L/R @ -1.7 ~ -1.8

 

With any aftermarket shocks/inserts/coilovers and a drop around 1", some negative camber won't hurt (stay 'below' -2.0). Either same negative camber all-around, slightly more up front or slightly more in the rear.

 

Dialing in toe all-around to 0.00 made a significant positive difference in how she handles!

...wouldn't it just be easier and likely cheaper to order a set of the Racecomp Engineering Bilstein dampers?

Dooooo iiiiiiitttttt!

That looks pretty the same to me. I still think its their alignment rig. I would ask another shop to check it for you to verify the other shops numbers before you switch back to stock.

Yep, agreed. I also can't really see any significant difference. My mind is telling me the passenger side is off but I don't see it.

 

Its hard to take a picture of a 1 degree difference

Chris - if you're near AZP this weekend or next week - stop by there, their alignment machine is back in operation.

 

Or if you don't mind driving through Queens - I highly recommend one of the 106st Street Tire locations! These guys are as crazy about tires/wheels/suspensions as we are about our Legacies:

 

http://106sttire.com/

 

http://www.yelp.com/biz/106-st-tire-and-wheel-corona-2

 

Nice thing about them is they are open almost 24/7 and do alignments as late as 8PM. Call ahead.

Thanks Fredrik. Feels good, I've yet to put it anywhere near the limit with the new settings dialed-in. I'll give it a spin in some twisties this weekend and report back.

 

Should I dial-in more negative camber in the front to balance out the back?

Say -1.5 or -1.6 front and -1.8 back?

 

I have stock-size LGT rims/wheels just pushed out to an effective offset of +31 so away from the perch.

ncfree/ Fredrik - on the topic of alignments, I recently had my done again just in time for Spring and wanted to ask you for some advice.

 

Toe all Around 0.00

Front Camber L/R -1.4

Rear Camber L/R -1.8

 

Given that I'm on the RCE Blacks / Bilstein combo with 17mm spacers, I prefer a bit of negative camber (as per Myles and a few guys on here), but would you recommend I do something about the rear camber or safe to run like this?

On a side note, I highly advocate the use of pop-its, makes removal for the winter and reinstallation for spring significantly easier, I reinstalled mine in just under 2 minutes.

This! No reason to use screws at all. Even on the inside of the fender location. So much better to drill the holes you need and maybe even a few more and fill them all with pop-its.

 

This is what we did to install the front lip on my brother's 2015 WRX yesterday.

Got my new wheels on today...

Tires are Kuhmos, 235/40 18, wheels are Enkei TSP6's 18x8.5 e44 in gunmetal. Next up, finish my Brembos and.get them on...

These are awesome, my brother just ordered a set for his 2015 WRX. Enkei TSP6 18x8.5 e35 GunMetal wrapped in 245/40R18s (stock 2015 STI size).