fahr_side

I don't usually push a 3-port BCS on the stg2 car owners. We have so much control authority with the stock setup you don't really gain anything with one. With the 5th gen's very short header you are working pretty much in real time vs. the quite large delays you see on the traditional 'remote location'.

If you're looking at boost control specifically you need Requested Torque, Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle, Turbo Dynamics Proportional, Turbo Dynamics Integral and Boost Error. The timing, fuel and load parameters aren't that important when tuning boost control.

I'd send it out to someone like Bryan at BNR. This is probably a bit beyond usual DIY project level difficulty.

Some progress on the wastegate flapper upgrade: Mmm. Which 'penny' to use? http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/fahr_side/IMG_32561_zps0lodfybl.jpg http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/fahr_side/IMG_32581_zpsas5ng8st.jpg Sadly I won't have time to port it in the next week or two.

Grow another arm. Stop before it falls off or you go blind! Good job I'd try the restrictor 'gasket' plate instead as it's known to work. I'm coming to believe that no downpipe design is going to prevent boost creep by itself unless it's deliberately restrictive to some degree. That or put some quieter cans on.

^ sounds like the flapper still bangs on something, and remember everything in there expands a lot when hot.

It probably wouldn't. The stock wastegate on the TD04 is quite adequate. Even at stg2 you have to push WGDC very high indeed to push past about 11 or 12psi at redline. What if I told you the bigger turbos are less likely to show boost creep? More flow through a larger turbine usually means less wastegating is required, given that other parameters are the same. And remember the larger turbos usually have larger exhaust housings to match, which also helps. I love older Fozzies. Put a VF-48 or VF-52 on one and it's door to door shit-eating grins. So many smiles per gallon

Be very careful to maintain shielding on the sensor wires you're extending. Problems with electrical noise are a bitch to diagnose.

I run the LGT model Konis on the front of my GH8 because the adjustment range has more resolution and I figured if anything they'd be stiffer.

It doesn't work like that. Every device on the network has it's own unique address and they are not the same on different models, or spec levels or even years. Therefore you cannot hook an '08 STi ECU to an '08 LGT and have it just say, "Oh hello, you're an ABS computer aren't you, nice to meet you, let's work together". Instead they both go into a snit and refuse to talk to each other, with the CANbus controller screaming blue murder about this device or the other being missing and strange intruders being in the building.

Yes, correct. Not all the JDM ROMs have been defined so I have a few customers running ADM ROMs on JDM cars. Sorry, not that simple. '08 STi is a CANbus car. Without the matching BIU, ABS, HVAC units, dash, Si-Drive switch etc. the ECU will show a CANbus error and only run the car in limp mode. Also, the JDM motors from this era usually have different and incompatible cam position sensors.

See if you can find the ADM FSM. ADM is the closest in spec to JDM and JDM models often don't have a FSM in English. Judging from the ROM IDs however it looks to me like the '08 JDM and USDM ECUs should be very similar. They're in the same series, which is not usually the case if the hardware architecture changed by much.

Oh. You don't need the wiring diagram for this, you need a section from the diagnostics section in the FSM that lists the ECM I/O

Oh, and as I know it a 5th gen intercooler will fit your motor if you have the short coupler that bolts to the turbo outlet.

Even a broken clock is right twice a day.

Exhaust AVCS will not work as single-AVCS ECUs do not have the drivers or outputs to run the solenoids. I have a customer with an '06 JDM Legacy (EJ20X). I'll ask him if he has the wiring diagram for you. It tuned out quite nicely and took quite a bit of boost considering the high compression ratio, goes well.

You are right on all points, but it's just not important. It's not like the center diff defaults to fully locked when there's no signal from the parking brake. It does whatever the control knob is set to do in manual mode and in auto mode will be close to full open if you're out of the throttle or going in a straight line. You also can't drive off with the parking brake engaged. Spiider's own instructions make it plain the brown wire can be left unconnected if you're not setting out to do handbrake turns.

That's exactly the purpose of the brown wire, it's the handbrake turn signal. In a handbrake turn you want the center diff open to minimize binding and let the car rotate. As you can't do mad skids with the silly electric parking brake you don't need to hook this up. All you need are the blue wire to the TPS input, the black and white wires to the DCCD harness, red for ignition-switched 12v power and green to ground. Done.

Yeah, mine held up to my old 16G for 80,000km or so and was only half worn when replaced. But, I had the thing out to replace a bad TOB and decided to install a new stock clutch in while I was in there.

Score!

I'm also pretty sure you have the smaller R160 case like other Legacy models and not the larger ones found on WRX models. I know Cusco have a unique LSD kit for the BR9 and I've seen them fitted to EDM cars.

Sorry, I typed the wrong gear ratio. I have a 1.1:1 trans so I needed a 3.545 rear diff. Open R160s as common as dirt. Suretrac... I'm not aware of any USDM cars getting those.

If the driveshaft problem were simpler I'd have used a stock R180 and been very happy with the helical diff. Instead, I was very lucky and got hold of a used R160 Suretrac. There's usually someone out there who bought a clutch type LSD and found he can't live with it.

I went around and around on this for ages and the options were basically mixing the GRB inner CV joints 28492AG010 with my WRX axles or as you say ordering the rare-as-unicorn-poop Spec B axles. In the end I decided to put an LSD into a 3.545 R160 and see if I broke it. So far so good. Light and cheap. There is someone out there doing very beefy aftermarket half-shafts but of course it's a bit spendy.

We have found a suitable flapper 3mm larger in diameter than the stock one. That's being installed this week. I'm sure if the extended part of the dump pipe fouls the stock flapper unless the whole thing is jammed to one side, the larger one would require it to be heavily dinged or a good piece cut out for clearance. This turbo will be going on a car with an HKS dump pipe.