Blizzard

Why do we upgrade for more power? Because we can. Why does OP lift his LGT into a monster? Because he can.

Thank you captain obvious.

Trust me, I would have loved an outback xt with a manual....

 

I am sorry that I offended anyone for not lowering my car and put some massively wide concave wheels under those massive wheel wells. And I don't see how the gt brakes are too weak for the larger tires since the 3.6r outback has the same exact brake setup.

 

I am going to get some 235/50/18 tires on the stock 18x7.5 wheels. The 20mm spacers will give me an offset of 35mm. My winter setup is 17x7.5 +40mm offset.

 

I think it should look similar, if not a little more aggressive.

 

As for the bumpers, I am planning on getting the 13-14 outback bumper and probably the black outback wheel arch molding kit.

 

 

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No one here is offended. Your car you do what you want. I see what you were going for but I think you are limited by the platform, hence the buying a different car comment.

I think you misunderstood what I said about tires and brakes. The most recent photos show the fender situation is going to limit you unless you get ballsy and start trimming. It already looks like you are close to rubbing. Typically when people do this kind of thing they go with smaller wheels and larger rubber. I was saying you don't have the option to do that because the GT brakes are too big. 15's aren't going to fit.

Getting strut spacers will not solve the bottoming out issue. I really don't see a point of a 1 inch spacer if you do not get any additional usable travel out of the stock suspension.

 

I have some 20mm spacers coming. So that should fix the offset problem.

 

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Lol ever stop and think maybe you bought the wrong vehicle for your hobbies/life?

I guess I just don't see the point. Raised too much IMO. You can't put massive rubber on and even going with a much smaller wheel and larger tires is going to be an issue given the size of the brakes.

Think you should have just went the strut spacer route. Like Impreza/Forestor guys. Would have given you some extra height without looking ridiculous.

Blizzard, would you recommend the south bend clutch for a stock gt? I'm in the market for a new clutch. I don't plan on doing many mods anytime soon. I just figured while I need a clutch, I'll throw an upgraded one in. Not sure if I should do stage 1 or 2.

 

Also, anyone have any input on the Exedy stage 1 clutches?

If you want to spend the money sure. Pedal feel is no different than stock. I don't think anyone's used an Exedy single disk around here. I remember reading about Impreza guys using them a while ago but I got the impression it wasn't capable of holding serious torque more of a stock replacement.

Odd that the service manual doesn't mention replacing the bolts. Where did you learn they were TTY. I was under the assumption subaru didn't use one-and-done fasteners.

It's been awhile but I think it was NASIOC. I've seen differing opinions, some say you can reuse and others say no. I have definitely seen people go to re-torque and have the head of the bolt shear off completely. I've also seen people have a lot of difficulty getting them off to remove old flywheel in the first place.

Your car you do whatever you want but both times my clutch has been replaced I bought new bolts. Cheap insurance when you are spending $500-$1500 replacing a clutch.

lol sorry Blizzard, I didn't check this thread before messaging you.

 

Hey Zakster here are the part #s i have for the bolts:

 

Pressure plate bolts: 800508310

Flywheel bolts: 800610750

 

I went through my dealer since they could have them ready to pick up earlier than other online sources.

No worries, posted here after I read your PM as a PSA.

The stock flywheel can be resurfaced and used if you have the time. I didn't so I just went the lazy route and bought a new one.

Make sure you get new OEM Subaru flywheel and pressure plate bolts. Both are torque to yield meaning they can only be torqued/used once. Not worth the gamble to try and reuse the old ones to save a couple bucks.

wrxwhit went SB because I did. My clutch has been good the past two years. I would imagine his has too?

This is what I have.

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ecommerce/FJK1001-HD-O.cfm?item_id=4268

can anyone verify what systems (part numbers, maybe) of good coilovers that bolt up? Ast, ohlins, etc? I see the comment about wrx stuff, is that year specific enough, like say 2010 wrx coilovers will bolt to 2010 lgt? Not really feeling the cheap bits right now...

KW V3

Edit: That's odd, wouldn't let me capitalize KW or the V unless this second sentence was here. If I delete the edit line it reverts back to lowercase...

So I just received my Tein street basic coil overs and I'm not sure what these are. (See Picture)

Those look like upper spring stops. Did the coilovers come with pillowball mounts? Maybe those are included if you want to run stock rubber mounts?

Edit: Yup.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/Shockwave179/yup.jpg

Update on the Megan Stiff suspension....Gborja888 was right. The stiff was mainly due to the cold. Two days ago it was almost 70 and the ride was smooth.

 

Still, would like softer but will not spend $3k on coils and don't want do bags. I just like my cars low.

My KW's do that. Gets really stiff below 30 degrees. With the 50 degree temps around here the past week or two it's been noticeably better.

So it won't b any lower?

Come on dude, would it really have been that much harder to type the e in be?

Being as it is a Colorado car, i'll have to take a look once I get back stateside. If needed the kartboys seem to be the favorite. Suggestions/experience with them or others?

They don't really fit that well. I had bought them originally and sold them to buy the AVO set. I like them and they are adjustable where the Kartboys are not.

Yep, one of my stockers came apart after the first winter. Probably would have been fine if I never decided to upgrade the rear sway. The threads disintegrated holding the bolt. The other side was fine. I think the side with the gruesome death just got lucky.

Same here, both of mine though. These are the things our California brethren don't take into consideration (lucky them they don't have to lol).

Guess I'm not the only one that had a miserable experience with a ClutchMasters product. My FX100 was terrible. Still convinced that the pressure plate was defective and like srehn said it probably did irreversible damage to the trans.

The Southbend I have now has been great for 10k miles.

Edit: To the OP whatever you do make sure they use OEM fill or Extra S in the trans. My experience with other full synthetic GL-5 gear oils has been less than stellar as well.

It is even easier if you just use the pre-existing holes for the screws and enlarge them with a drill, which is what I did.

 

Takes the trouble out of having to measure the distance for that.

Remember what size the bit was?

This! No reason to use screws at all. Even on the inside of the fender location. So much better to drill the holes you need and maybe even a few more and fill them all with pop-its.

 

This is what we did to install the front lip on my brother's 2015 WRX yesterday.

I still haven't put mine on and I am on the fence about doing this.

I still kind of feel like if you hit anything that's on level with the lip it's going to come right off though. I've noticed that the ones with the head facing down on the front fascia wear out after a while and don't hold very well. I suppose replacing them every couple years isn't that expensive though.