hadvw

See my post earlier - try sparkplugs.com.

Here's what I got: Thank you for your order at Sparkplugs.com. Below is a summary of your order for your records: 4 - NGK IX iridium Stock Number: 2309 Part Number: LFR7AIX Seemed to be just like the originals, and worked fine.. (for 20+K so far) Interestingly enough, according to sparkplugs.com, there are different brands of plugs, with DIFFERENT OE gaps for our car.. http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?productTypeID=1&AAIA=1430733 Autolites are pre-gapped to 0.040, Denso to 0.035 and Champion and NGK to 0.030. Does this mean they're all equivalent (i.e. Autolite plugs are slightly different and will work in the LGT at 0.040)? On the other hand: http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=lfr7aix&x=0&y=0 Shows that lfr7aix are pre-gapped to 0.032. The SILFR6A are listed as "extreme long life", while the LFR7AIX are not. Given that I'm changing 'em every 30-40K anyway, does it matter? The LFR7AIX are one step colder (I'm stage 2), and 2/3 the price of the SILFR6A. They don't list an SILFR7A... Wow - "traditional" champion plugs are less than $3 each, $2.89, SILFR6A are $12 each. Not that I'd get anything but NGKs...

Actually, given that it's $40-50 for the plugs, $150 for the labor isn't outrageous, IMHO.

This was something I really didn't know about when buying the LGT (my first AWD car). I think I've been ok so far (had to replace 4 tires instead of 2 once) in 60K miles because I stumbled upon the info in time when I needed it. But, it's definitely something I'll think about twice before doing again (buying AWD). Rarely need AWD in NorCal, unless we head up to Tahoe in the winter.. We do that maybe 2x a year.. Too many unexpected restrictions: 1/4 rule for tires, don't pull parking brake for skids, etc, etc.. I survived plenty of Canadian winters with FWD, and even the occasional RWD adventure ('79 Dodge)..

Interesting day for car-watching on 237-880 (and Fremont). Yes, there IS some Subaru content.. First: SWEET looking recent 911 with ground-effects in white (maybe gt3?) A couple of Audis: -new A8L (different rear end) -R8 - NICE A couple of Auda-state-girls: -cute brunette from Mass in 330ci -cute blonde from Utah in recent 2.5i sedan (with the extra reflectors in the rear bumper - what year did they add those? I have an '05, so I don't pay that much attention to the newer models)

I think very few people actually buy direct from Cobb. Usually they piece stuff together. For instance, I bought a used AP 1.0 (old version), gutted my own DP and bought an off-the-shelf tune from the not-really-around-anymore TDC tuning. Others will buy a different brand UP or DP, and get a tune at a local tuner, etc. Cobb's off-the-shelf stage 2 is VERY conservative, I believe.

I think he means either a U-joint or a wobble extension. One of the two is a must. I bought a wobble. It worked. Next time, I'll probably buy and try a u-joint to see if it's easier.

Got it installed. Pretty easy - I did it without cutting by buying a couple of extra 2" pieces of vacuum hose and installed those at the BOV. A question for everyone: what boost levels are you seeing with digboost (installed at the BOV)? Are they what you expected? I'm at stage 2 (1.5? gutted DP, stock UP), TDC stage 2 ACN (CA/AR/NV) tune. I'm seeing 14.0 mostly, some 14.5s, and once 15.5. Reading the notes for Cobb's stage 2, I see their boost target is 16.0 +- 0.7 psi for ACN stage 2 (05.5 5EAT LGT, AP v1.0). Does that seem right? Does boost read higher or lower at/near sea level (I'm around 50-100 feet most days)? Could I have a TMIC leak? I saw the other day someone said their TMIC leak limited them to 14.4 psi.. That seems to be where I am most times. Car is nice and driveable (MUCH better than stock). I also got the "TPS adjustment", which also works. No CELs, mileage is ok, etc.. Thanks for any info.

By "pliers", do you mean regular pliers, or a set of vice grip pliers? Vice grips can work wonders with 1/2 an inch of screw..

Aren't the normal plugs LFR7AIX? I ordered those from sparkplugs.com.. Seem to work for me..

Well, for example, $50 is worth 2 hours of work to me easily.. Someone in Norcal want to install the Digboost for me? :-)

Wait a second.. Now you're working on wireless?? Any ETA on that? Can I return my DigBoost? (I rarely have hours to spend working on the car these days..)

No problem. I prefer the readout-style.. But, I might get the gtboost20 someday.. Depends on if my wife likes the idea (she keeps saying in 3-4 years when the girls are older, she'll take the LGT, we'll move the minivan to "occasional" status, and I get to buy whatever I want within reason.. :-)

Wow - looks like I got the last of the first batch! Can't wait.

Awesome! So, just to check - this does NOT include the regular gtboost16/20 cascade of LEDs, correct? Is that an option too? Or just too complicated to get both to work?

It's been posted earlier: Lossol is waiting (IIRC) for a shipment of connectors or the new run of circuit boards to be finished. I'm HOPING this means they'll be ready for sale in March...

Depends on your level of technical ability, access to tools, etc. I did my DP (had a 2nd OEM DP already gutted), and after getting that far, decided to skip doing the UP - it took me like 6-7 hours to do the DP. Yes, this was my first time working on a Subaru, all the steps were new, etc. And, I'm not super mechanically inclined. But, it would have taken me another 2-3 hours just to get the UP loose, IF I had managed it - I needed the car on Monday to go to work :-) Plus, having never worked on a turbo engine before, all the exhaust routing was new to me, etc. Didn't want to mess up a gasket by hurrying, and then having leaks all over the place. All that to give you some context: I did my plugs in 3-4 hours (first time doing plugs), and most of that was struggling to get the caps back on the plugs after they were installed - that's a bit of a tight fit. DO buy at least a wobble or U-joint ratchet extension. Don't think you'll manage without one. I ended up doing the following: loosening with ratchet + regular extension + socket. Unfortunately, the fit it so tight, the ratchet wouldn't fit for more than 1/4" of threading. So then, I used the wobble extension + fingers or vice grip pliers to get the plug out the rest of the way and the new one in part of the way until the ratchet + regular extension fit to tighten up. If you've done UP/DP, I would say it's only half as much work, or less.

When can I order?

Schweeet! Note to '05 Beta Tester - get your ass in gear and test it this week! :-) HV

Great News!!

Always something with buying/selling a car, it seems (and this also involves Autowest, although the one in Fremont) We traded in my wife's Mazda3 on a Grand Caravan (2nd kid on the way, still have the LGT). Problem is, the DMV is really slow to update stuff, so we've been getting the FastTrak notices from the Carquinez Bridge that some idiot thought he would be exempt from, I guess. If you see someone driving a silver/gray Mazda3, license 5PLE208, tell him to knock it off!

Really, easier from the bottom? Yes, it was pretty annoying, but I think I got it done in 2-3 hours. Hardest part was getting the connectors actually back over the plugs (for the back two connectors)..

Sounds great, Lossol! Can't wait!

Thanks for the update. Still anxiously waiting.. Here's one guaranteed digboost 20 order...

Can't wait Lossol - can you have 'em ready for Christmas? :-)