need bb

Tranny fluid is Motul gear 300 and only has 10k miles on it. Clutch is a south bend with 20k miles and never had any issues with it.

Last week I was sitting at a stop light and I tried to shift into 1st gear, but it wouldn't engage. I had to double clutch to get the car into 1st and even this was more difficult than normal. This same symptom has now happened multiple times. I have also noticed that the shift from 1st to 2nd which used to be buttery smooth, requires a bit more effort. I checked the front tranny fluid and it was full. I have always been gentle with the tranny so I don't think the syncros would be shot after 100k miles. When the car is off the tranny is super easy to shift. Any ideas?

Good to know. That said my wagon looks like stock from the exterior, but the same can't be said of the engine bay

Got my registration in the mail and stated I need to do my SMOG test at a STAR certified place. I will put the stock DP back on and try seeing if it passes. If I fail I will be sadly selling the LGT:mad:

I run E85 on my 850cc sidefeeds, but have to taper boost as my IDC reach 95%. With my TD05-20G, Airboy/virtual dyno shows around ~365whp. I likely leaving around 10-20WHP on the table given the lower boost.

Thanks Underdog and Scooby2.5. Put in the WRX FPCM and the fuel pump primed I noticed I am running rich by about 3-4% at higher RPMs so it looks like the fuel pump is flowing more fuel.

I ordered a WRX FPCM. Hopefully that fixes the issue FP- not showing 0v during ignition. At this point I know the wiring is correct and the new relay is sending battery voltage to the FPCM. Anything else I should check?

I found one issue. I had the FP+ and FP- wires crossed and since I was still using the original wiring, battery voltage was being applied on both terminals. I re-soldered them and I am now seeing a 11.2v between FP+ and FP- at the fuel pump harness. When I measure the voltage across the FP+ and FP- when the fuel pump is connected there is no voltage drop. The issue remains that the pump isn't priming. I connected FP+ to the pump and then grounded FP- and the pump turned on, so I know the pump is working. Underdog I am using your wiring schematic. After a turn my key the FPCM on the FP- pin goes to .7v and stays there. I have a feeling I blew the FPCM when I put the 12V on the FP- pin.

Thanks Underdog. What should the voltage be at the FP- pin with the key at ignition? I will double check all my wiring, but I did ground both the relay and stripped a window in the black FPCM wire and ran that to the chassis ground.

What are the expected voltage readings for FP+ and FP- at the fuel pump harness when the key is in ignition? I am seeing +12v on both FP+ and FP- but the fuel pump won't prime.

I changed my DP to stock and had the CARB sticker for my K&N intake. All non subaru logos I covered up with electrical tape.

I did have my trimmed engine cover on and my turbo heatshield did cover some of the EWG.

Good news. I passed smog! Now I can keep the car for another two years.

Going for smog soon. Put back the stock DP and BPV, but still running the EWG. Any advise before I go in?

Go with some 4032 pistons. They are good for daily driving, but also can handle more power. You don't want to find out in a couple years that the ring cracked again and you will need to rebuild.

I had no issues with the AC line bracket. I wonder if the 05's are different.

Based on the STI GB, I would expect the price to be $750 for everything. The big question is whether the splitter will be worth it.

There are a couple of different version of the 20G. The TD05-20G will spool before 3.5K while the larger TD06H-20G will spool a little after 4K. The 20G is still considered a medium size turbo and is only about 10% larger than the 18G. Even if you want to go with the 16G you would want a new TMIC and injectors or you might lean out on top.

I think pricing is key. There are already good solutions for both the low end (FMS around $400) and the high end (PW around $900). If there was something that was in the $500-$600 range than I think a lot of people would be interested. I have lots of GS parts, but I am only willing to spend so much money on a 8 year old car.

Saw a black 05 LGT 5MT wagon and a silver OBXT 5sp in East Cambridge. Just surprised to see two 5MT turbo wagons on my street

Yes DW850 and 255L FP. I was really hoping for more than 290WHP, but my stock clutch and IPR TMIC are probably holding me back. The car's making about 25WHP more than a VF52 or VF48 and the turbo has more room left in it. I expect a TD05 20G to make about 30-40WHP more than a VF48 so I think I am in the ballpark.

I had the standard wheel as the billet wasn't available back in 2011. As for spool it I went with the TD05 so it would spool a bit faster. On the road in 3rd gear I make 20 PSI by 3.5K.

I have been running the TD05-20G for the last year and a half. I had the car dyno'ed last year and made 290WHP. Since they I have fine tuned my tune and probably picked up another 10WHP. Stage 2 STI's make around 265WHP on this dyno.

On the 27th I spotted a blue LGT sedan with black wheels heading on RT9 west by Framingham/Southboro.