need bb

I noticed that my cruise control stalk is intermittent when trying to speed up. Recently it has gotten worse and most of the time pressing up on the stalk does nothing. I imagine the electrical contacts are worn out. Is the simplest fix to just get a replacement stalk? Is this difficult to remove/install? Thanks

I put some change in my ashtray cubby and now it won't fully close. The change holder gets to about 70% closed and then it just stops. I don't see anything in the way preventing it from fully closing. Any ideas?

I am due for smog, but looks like I won't pass like I have in the past with my stock DP. I run larger injectors so I can't simply load the stock A2WC522N map. I am interested in any developments.

For future reference the correct clips are Subaru 90914-0007. Plenty of similar ones on Amazon in bulk for < $10.

Thanks. I assume to install I pull the wheel liner, install clip, and re-install wheel liner?

My front driver's side bumper by the wheel well keeps coming unclipped. I am able to move the wheel liner and then it clips back in, but a few days later it falls out again. I reviewed the front bumper removal guide, but I am still a little confused. Am I missing a clip or has the bumper's built in tab failed? Thanks

This was on craigslist for last year on and off. I was interested and most recent owner who said it wasn't running correctly, but didn't have time to diagnose. Good luck with sale, but there is something going fishy going on here.

I assume you had two Koni's fail?

I was doing routine maintenance under the car and noticed that my front passenger Koni Yellow insert appeared to be leaking. Has anyone had this issue before? I believe Koni has a lifetime warranty on their dampers. Would it make sense to replace with a replacement insert or go with the full strut which supports the WRX line?

I finally got around to wiring up my wideband so i can log with btssm. I ran a wire from the analog output of my LC-1 to pin26 of the B136 connector on the ECU. Thanks for all the details in this thread it made the install much easier.

Got the new coil swapped in and everything is back to normal

Thanks, I was successfully able to find this passage way:spin:

Thanks! Looks like a straight path through?

That would be greatly appreciated.

I am trying to run a wire from the driver side fuse box to the ECU on the passenger side so I can monitor my wideband sensor via the ECU's TGV input. My wideband connections all terminate by the driver's side fuse box and I am struggling on finding a way to easily run this wire across the dash. When I poked around with a coat hanger by the footwells there didn't seem to be any passage way. Would it just be easier to run the wire around the shifter/cigarette lighter? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Swapped coils and the misfired moved to cylinder 2. I have ordered a new OEM coil and hope that resolves the issue. More to follow. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Wouldn't I want to also move the coil between cylinder 3 <-> 4 to validate the coil is good?

Thanks for all the tips. I will have to try swapping the coils/injector and plugs. I don't think it is Bad MAF or Bad O2 sensor as the fuel trims are good and the other cylinders are running without any misfires. Engine has less than 30k miles and I am running way less power than the engine was designed for. The issue happened right after a few second WOT in 3rd and 4th gear, so engine was at max load. Only thing I can think is that injector 4 failed.

I was WOT passing a car and afterwards I noticed that something wasn't correct with my engine I pulled out btssm and confirmed that I had misfires in cylinder 4. I was surprised to see that the misfire counter was constantly increasing and soon after I received the P0304 check engine light My tune is set to enter limp mode with minimal knock and learning view was normal with proper fuel trims and an IAM of 1.0. The car is clearly not running on cylinder 4 as it vibrates a bit at idle and acceleration is labored. At this point I am thinking it is: Spark Plug/Coil Pack Injector Cracked Piston I have already build the engine once with Cosworth Pistons, so I am hoping I don't have another cracked ringland. I was planning on having my local mechanic perform a compression/leakdown test as the next step. Thoughts?

I recently noticed that my OEM O2 sensor and LC-1 wideband sensor in my DP were no longer reading similar values. My LC-1 used to be ~.25 richer than my O2 sensor, but not it is almost ~.9 richer. I have tried calibrating the LC-1 twice (using SW and manual push button), but the results are the same. Any ideas on what sensor I should look to replace?

Thanks! This really helps explain the core issue and thus the benefit of the EWG. Given the 1-2psi lower boost I was able to add 2 degrees of timing back to minimize the power loss with the IWG.

Thanks utc_pyro. See below: Grimmspeed 3 port The WC spring is stated as 1.7 bar, but with 0% WGDC it acts like a 1 bar spring Mass flow peaks around 340g/s exhaust housing is 8cm Moving from the 1.2bar to 1.7bar spring along with the extra WGDC, the mass flow only increased by 2%.

I recently moved from an EWG to IWG setup. With the EWG I could easily hold 19psi to redline with a TD05-20G, but I am having difficulty holding high boost to redline using the IWG setup. I upgraded the spring in my IWG to one 7psi stiffer and while this improved the WGDCs, I only gained 1psi at redline even with 100% WGDC. Given the much larger spring I am thinking the issue is beyond the IWG. I did a boost leak check recently and everything checked out fine. Any ideas?

My clutch fluid was at the low mark and I found that the OEM clutch hose was slightly wet. I filled up the clutch fluid, but the issue still exists. I ordered a stainless hose to replace the OEM one, but I am not confident this will solve the issue. I noticed that if I turn off the car I can easily get it to engage 1st. Not sure if this leads me to any sort of direction/conclusion of the issue.

Thanks. I will take a look at the clutch hydraulics/fluid.