whitetiger

look on tirerack.com under 2004 STI. all wheels will be 5x100 and fit the brembos. done.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1376394&cc=1430733&jsn=889

Also, are you sure its the diff and not the trans, or the driveshaft center support bearing?

yeah, your local subaru dealer.

control arms are cheap. just replace the arms. a quick search on rockauto.com shows that you wont be spending much more than $70 per arm depending on which ones you are replacing.

why not just buy the onyx edition grille. plastidip looks like garbage.

well tide's join date is 12-31-2003 so i guess then.

This morning when I went to fill my Outback with gas this warning lamp illuminated on the dash. This is the yellow lamp in the speedometer dial and not the red "Oil pressure warning" light within the tachometer dial.

 

I parked the vehicle and checked the oil level and it is showing completely full. There is no doubt that there is plenty of oil in the engine.

 

I read the description of this in the owners manual and it states that if it is on then there is approximately 4 (engine not running) or 5.6 (engine running) quarts of oil. Perhaps I was misreading the dipstick so I turned to that section of the manual to ensure I was doing it properly. It appears that I am.

 

Conditions: Temperature is around 30 degrees, I waited approximately 30 seconds after starting before driving away, the coolant indicator remained blue the entire trip, the light was not on when I drove away but came on after I filled the tank.

 

After observing the light I checked the oil, upon seeing the level is OK I started the engine and allowed it to warm slightly (the coolant light went out and the heater started blowing warm air), and then rechecked the oil.

 

Any idea what might be causing this? I've attempted to cycle the ignition off and on again several times and it's still illuminated. The only thing I can think of is the sensor is bad (or temperamental in colder weather). I drove it 200+ miles over the weekend without any issues. Was it a short trip issue without warming it up?

 

I'll take it to my mechanic for inspection if there is no obvious explanation for this (other than a bad sensor).

 

On a completely unrelated note what's up with the multiple line spacing when I post? Initial post has double spacing which I have to go back and edit out.

 

 

i have the same exact issue on my 11 OBK 3.6R as well. now my car does burn a little oil over the OCI, but the light likes to come on if I start the car and only run it for a short time, like if i have to move it out of the drive way for the wife to pull out. the light will come on then, but after driving a period of time, it goes out on its own. I verified the level is good throughout, so i suspect its a combination of a sensor issue, the algorithm the ECU used to to determine when the put the light on, and I remember reading somewhere that our model year was affected by bad block/head castings in the oil drain-back passages where a partial restriction would delay oil repopulating the pan, thus triggering the level switch. this is why it only happens(for me) when the car is cold and the oil is viscous.

 

you can buy a replacement oil level sensor to see if that helps. they are fairly cheap, but at least for me if i make sure the car warms up some before i shut it off, the light never comes on.

FWIW, if you want pothole protection and soft ride, you are best shooting for max width first, then max sidewall. a 235/45/17 tire shoe-horned on the stock 17x7 would be my choice for the stated goal. 225/55/17 is outback sizing and too big for a regular legacy for a gearing/clearance perspective.

still post leader

 

you still ricing out base models?

 

:facepalm:

hey I bought a thing i cant use. it was a deal!

03 wrx brakes arent even the 4pot/2pot. those were only on the 06/07 wrx.

 

OP, why would you pick up brakes from a different model before you confirmed everything would fit?

n00b

^same goes for the clutch the the 5EAT's VTD planetary center. its basically DCCD but stuck in auto with no manual control.

 

OP will not be able to bias rear TQ without significant and costly custom work.

would be funny if they were actually the same substance.

the 5eat will never operate that way unless you are on a loose surface. the VTD center will always try to send power tp the front if the rear starts to slide.

 

you bought the wrong car then.

Wait how exactly would I get dccd on my 05 5mt? I need to get cusco what? and what dccd controller?

 

I'm looking for my stuff to waste money on this summer!

 

i have a feeling this is gonna turn in to an EJ205X thread

^no. the 5eat in the GT already has a 45/55 split VTD center. the cusco tarmac center that UD mentioned would be a downgrade and requires a FLSD to function properly, and the JDM DCCD unit along with the cusco unit is only for the 5MT. There are no easy solutions for doing what you want, especially if you say you don't have money on your side.

Hmm okay, unfortunately in the country I live in, the parts are crazy expensive and getting things shipped from the states or the likes, will cost $$$ for shipping alone.

 

Which is why I was thinking about straight piping it instead...

 

you gotta pay to play. all you did was a give a reason why this car would be a bad mod platform for you.

 

again, if you cant do it right, dont do it. I'm not gonna import a JDM only car thats been out of production for over a decade, and then complain when my domestic market has no affordable aftermarket parts.