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whitetiger

I Donated Too
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Posts posted by whitetiger

  1. if you got stock replacement, or spec-b and your existing arms weren't bent at all, then yes, you would not need an alignment because no alignment angles would have changed. the upper arm is not an OE alignment adjustment point.

     

    If i were you though, id take the opportunity to install the whiteline KCA399 bushings for the upper arm while you have it out to getrear camber adjustment, and then go get it aligned. these cars don't have OE rear camber adjustments so if you have the opportunity to add it, do so.

  2. I went with Whiteline ones and would NOT recommend it. Only thing I got from it was more NVH and noticed zero handling differences. Little bit more NVH, but not much. Mostly just felt that the ride was stiffer for rear passengers and no benefits.

     

    arms on their own wouldnt give you much of a handling change at all if all else remains the same. and of course, aftermarket arms will have stiffer bushings in them so more NVH should be expected.

  3. the spc arms are for camber and megan arms are for toe adjustments. both are best(why the KTA124 is recommended) since more extreme camber settings may require toe to be adjusted beyond the factory bolt's limits, but its not required if you are running within stock settings and just want to dial in camber more precisely.

     

    the other reason why the KTA124 is preferred is because they use poly bushings instead of spherical bushings. Poly will last alot longer on the street and also conform to certain racing/autox class regulations if you care about that sort of thing.

  4. you do know that you dont have to remove any exhaust parts/piping to do the engine mounts right? last time i did them was last year on a 2013 WRX STI and I only popped the hood to ensure that when i jacked the engine up, components didnt hit the hood. Didint take the IC off, didnt unbolt the pitch stop, just unbolt the mount nuts, jack the engine up for clearance, and swapped out the mounts.
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