whitetiger

yes, but here it is. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140837&d=1359857585

Nice! what are you plans with it? I just picked up a 2013 NC myself.

^wrong. An open center diff is not FWD. its AWD with no limited slip TQ transfer. with an open center, power would just be sent to the path of least resistance, but it would still be either the front or the rear. if you were to remove the drive shaft on a true open center diff, the car would not move.

a new center diff is around $520+labor. not that bad considering aftermarket units are 2-4 times that. All late model 5mt subaru's use a VLSD in the center including the non-turbo ones. The VLSD diffs are sealed units. you can not "drain the fluid out." you can swap in the full diff in your "old trans" in your the one that is binding if its still good. I'm a little skeptical of the fact that your center diff has gone bad. If you haven't had someone verify that it is your center diff, you should get a second opinion. Could just be a bad axle. If it is in fact your center diff, then it must be replaced. No getting around it. you could get one of the fatermarket ones, but of course they are alot more $$$$.

For autox, I have built as close to a fully prepped ESP car as any legacy ived ever seen or heard of short of doing the weight loss mods. I can tell you that it is a money intensive endeavor. aside from buying all the drivetrain, suspension and stage2+ mods, you have to get the car under 3200lbs to truly be competitive at a national level. If anyone is planning to build a real ESP Legacy, PM if you have any questions. ive been though most of the issues one would encounter along the way and can give some insight in to a mod path that could save a lot of trial and error and $$$.

Sticky!

you know im gonna sticky this when you're finished.

they need a sign that described how much that wedding cost.

http://media.peopleofwalmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/4242.jpg

the suretrac is magic. you just have to believe it works, and it will.

http://www.stuffwelike.com/stuffwelike/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/Movie-Poster_2084.jpg

i want to drive over 150 because racecar but i stay below 88 because time travel

^your final rim offset will end up being +33 instead of the +48 they are normally. that is too low.

My company is looking for CNC Machinist with experiance in CNC setup and g-code programming for Fanuc controllers. Experience with KOMO and Northwood CNC machines is a plus. $40k to $70k a year depending on experience plus benefits. Location in Teterboro, NJ 07608. email resume to Jobs@e-tplastics.com

adapters usually come in the form of spacers. thick ones. that messes up the offset of the wheel you would use. a 20mm adapter/spacers would make a 48mm offset rim in to a 28mm offset rim. thats not ideal.

if the cat is not doing its job, then there is a chance it could be on the verge of getting clogged. buy the sensor. most of the time, its the sensor that goes bad. so if thats the case which it it most likley is, the spacer wont do squat. the senor is cheap and easy to install. do that and see. buy the sensor.

^iirc, "bank 0" is the upstream cat, and "bank 1" is down stream

the only point for getting the spacer is if you have an aftermarket hi-flow cat that will cause your rear sensor to throw the code. the space moves the rear sensor out of the exhaust stream so it wont see the fact that the hi-flow cat is not cleaning the exhaust as well as the oem one did. If you have functioning OEM cats, there is no need for a spacer. never put a spacer on the front sensor or your ECU wont be able to get an accurate reading on how the engine is running.

both. p0420 is a cat efficiency code. this code is specifically triggered by the rear 02 sensor seeing that the cat is not doing its job. this code is the most common exhaust code one can get. we see it all the time. 2 things can make the sensor throw the code. either the sensor is borked, which means you buy a new sensor, or the sensor is functioning properly, which means your cat may need replacement. start with a new sensor(fairly cheap) and see if that solves the issue, you dont want to have to spend lots on a new cat if you dont have to. in contrast, the front (upstream) o2 sensor is the one that ECU uses to tune the engine in closed loop operation. if that one goes, the car will run like crap and you will have misfire/lean/rich codes.

it will be the one after(downstream) the cat.

i was kinda thinking that as well.

also isnt this all covered in the new member forum? you would think they would read that first before anything.

http://whitetrashrepairs.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/5356.jpg

yep, you are right. that grainy pic fooled me.

these arent them?