whitetiger

using a r160 is not a good solution here. find a r180 with the right config and use that. whats your front FD ratio now? 3.92?

yes that sounds accurate size/shape wise. to confirm this, if are able to measure from the bottom of the strut to the bottom of the spring perch, along the body, of you tokicos, then i or someone can measure the bilsteins and we can compare.

it depends if tokicos require spec b top hats or lgt top hats. if spec b top hats, then they should also have the higher perch like bilsteins, but i dont think that is the case.

Picking up a used set of spec b takeoffs for myself to pur on the OB3.0R-S. that will ensure i can continue to run OB tiresizes.

^a good way to find out is to see if any spec b guys are running that size on the stock suspension. I think with the right wheel offset it will fit.

yes

all 3 shocks are different, bu the HD's and the OEM spec b's have the same shock body design with the higher lower spring perch. by using s shorter top hat and slightly shorter front spring, the ride height is not affected and an overall larger wheel/tire diameter can fit.

modify a LGT housing to accept a koni insert, then do the same modification on the OB housing. measure the depth of each housing from the top to the bottom of the inside and the difference is how thick the spacer should be.

OK, and this is just for the fronts, to install koni insets in OB strut bodies, you need to take up the extra space on the bottom of the strut with a spacer and then use a longer bolt to secure the space on the body. no sure how long the spacer needs to be but if i had a koni insert, a lgt shock and an OB shock, i could measure and find out. this is assuming the tube diameter of the shock bodies are the same.

^correct, however, since front konis are just inserts, as long as the piston stroke is the same or similar, i have an idea on how to make them fit on OB housings. ther rears are full units so you cant use them on an outback if you keep OB frnt strut housings unless you get some sort of super thick saggy butt spacer.

pretty much. id be interested to see the ride height with this combo.

very nice. well done! its now a proper sticky.

thats why i like spec-b take offs in this case. all the thought is done for you by subaru and you get the expected lowering and comfort that is already well known. trying to do something with a coilover requires a lot of trial and error since vendors are not gonna do it for you for the outback platform. That is why you get stuck with LGT options that are too low and stiff and poorly made(the cheap ones).

no, the other way around. softer springs need to be longer. the soft rates are for comfort. but that means the car will sit lower because the spring need to compress more to build up enough force to hold the car up. having them longer will allow you to preload them(compress them) to get back the ride height lost if you were to have bought shorter springs. OEMs do this alot with stock springs on cars. On my MX-5 for example, the springs are very soft at around 100lb/in a corner. So to hold the car off the ground, the spring is compressed like 5" when installed on the shock assembly making the spring support 500lbs before the car's weight is actually on it and compresses it another 2" or so. you can use this trick to use softer springs and get a compliant ride.

thats unfortunate, but perhaps if you are more specific about how you will take a LGT set with softer rates, he may respond differently. the only real way to make a outback option is to have the shock bodies elongated similar to Meagan racing ouback units(those suck BTW). Myles doesn't custom build shock bodies AFAIK, so he cant offer that. But selecting custom spring rates and lengths for an existing platform and having the shock valved for them is somthing he does and does very well. Id give it another shot with him.

^i understand. If you really wanted to do it the right way with coilovers, call RCE and get Myles to put softer rates on the T1's with long springs. then you can preload them some to get the desired ride height but they wont be too stiff and you will still have all the travel you need.

yeah, by people who have very limited experience with coilovers. i take those reviews with a gigantic grain of salt. most have never driven on good coilovers to know better.

^I dont like used suspension either, but getting a used set of takeoffs gets you going and then in a year or 2 you can buy HD's and put them in. new coilovers under $1500 are worse then used quality parts, and no coilover will be as comfortable as an OEM setup. For an outback, comfort is all that id care about other than the inherent lowering of LGT/spec-b units.

^meh, id never consider a cheap coilover ever. you can get moderate mileage full assembly spec b takeoffs for about $5-600 and the will be much more comfy than crap coilovers. an outback on stock spec b springs and bils will be plenty low if you are sticking with oem outback wheel sizing.

for those worried about spring perch/tire clearance, using spec b takeoffs would get you that clearance since the bils have a a higher bottom spring perch in the front compared to regular LGT units.

Sticky as per request.

Saw a 05-06 GRP LGT with exhaust and FMIC on i-80 west in NJ near Paterson.

yes, but here it is. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140837&d=1359857585

Nice! what are you plans with it? I just picked up a 2013 NC myself.

^wrong. An open center diff is not FWD. its AWD with no limited slip TQ transfer. with an open center, power would just be sent to the path of least resistance, but it would still be either the front or the rear. if you were to remove the drive shaft on a true open center diff, the car would not move.