m sprank

It is no bore. Very happy to hear that in the end it worked out. That VF-37 should be fun. Enjoy.

It is very tight from the factory. Try some PB Baster. Then hold the bottom very steady (no turning) and loosen the top. It will take a lot of force (more than you really might think you should apply). It will "snap" when it gives. Then it will be loose. Every turbo swap I have done this was an issue. I chalk it up to the Subaru torque gorilla at the factory.

Shoot me a PM or an email to msprank at yahoo dot com (sorry for the spelling stops the hyperlink). I am sure I can find some time. Busy this weekend (koni install for Mungo). Last weekend in July is my mothers and twin sisters B-days, so thats a no go too. Otherwise...

Not worried about the work.

 

Have no fears about the install.

 

Just helps to see if there are any tricks I can learn. I believe I can do the work with the motor installed in the car. Everyone else who I know has done the install with the motor on a stand. Some say the oil pan wont come out with the engine in the car. I have already dropped the pan with the engine in. So, I can clear that hurdle.

 

But, not having removed the pick up before, it would be nice to see if I need to lift the motor off the mounts at all to get it out and in. Little things. That way the next one goes faster.

 

200 miles is a bit. But I can manage. Drove 100 miles to help with a spring swap just 3 weeks ago.

How far from O'side? I am planning the same install (with pump and pan). Could be good practice.

I would let socalsleeper work on my Subie way before I let the sealership or independent touch it.

Thanks.

 

Pulled the entire bulkhead wiring harness out. Removed all the black loom and black tape. Replaced with blue loom and tape.

 

Did you know there are four sizes of loom in the engine bay alone? That the harness goes through the passenger fender and all the way to the fogs? Even goes under the friggin radiator. Took days to get it all. Took a week to find all the correct sizes of loom in blue. Already went through 6 rolls of 3M blue electrical tape, lol.

 

Having all the brackets, mounts and pipe powdercoated blue. If I can get it out and it isnt plastic it is going to the powdercoater.

 

Trying to replace all hoses with blue silicone. Or wrap those that cant be replaced.

 

Bling! Bling!

You have no idea, lol. I am in the middle of several different projects at once now. Motor is still in pieces (get new ideas every other day). Interior is out, wiring stereo system now.

 

This is taking much longer than I originally planned. But it is the first time I am not in a rush and dont need the car. So, rather than get frustrated because I have to throw it back together again I am taking the time to do it RIGHT the first time. Plus, I decided to go all out. That is itself means a massive undertaking. When I said I was going to build a show car I meant it. Notice how the engine bay is already taking on a distinct blue hue?

My old race team owner used to swear that -7lbs equaled 1 HP. I threatened to cut off my head to gain 2 HP, just to get him to shut up about it, lol.

 

If anything the loss of a few extra pounds up front is a good thing. Like cutting the battery in half. It is less unsprung weight hanging over the front end. Since the car can't tell its gone, seems like a no brainer.

 

I am even considering getting an 05 oil filler neck now to make oil changes easier. Current fill neck is close to my fuel lines and cold side pipe.

Ponies. No ponies. Unless you count the weight loss. System only operates at start up. It replaces the cat in the uppipe. Forces warm air into the cat to preheat it to operating temperature at start up. Reduces emissions. Big waste of space. Car warms up fine, lol.

Only reason I brought my tranny to a shop. Because I dreaded using jack stands and a tranny jack for removal. In the end I got twice the bill in repairs from the botched job and had to do the work myself anyway. Seen lifts for less than $1k (not harbor freight, lol). If I only had the space.

One thing at a time or you will end up like me and have a car in pieces for months.

Twenty one=

 

the hard pipe

 

Twenty two=

 

plastic tube from pump to drivers side solenoid.

 

Twenty three=

 

plastic tube from drivers side solenoid to passenger side solenoid.

 

Twenty four=

 

passenger side solenoid.

 

Twenty five=

 

top of passenger side solenoid cut off with a sawzall. Solenoid electro-magnet and sensor on the side now.

 

Twenty six, seven, and eight=

 

sensor cut out. Can still cut more of the metal away. All I need is the small square portion on top. I could cut it off with a heat gun and sharp blade.

 

Twenty nine and Thirty=

 

the two sensor connectors. Notice the drivers side is two wires. This is power and ground for the solenoid electro-magnet. Now see the passenger side is 5 wires. Two of them are power and ground for the electro-magnet. The other three are power, ground and signal for the atmospheric pressure sensor.

 

It is important to place new gaskets and block off plates over the two openings. Then reconnect the passenger side atmospheric sensor to the OEM harness (purple plug) and find a happy home for it. Zip ties will work it is most likely still under the manifold in the end.

 

You can simply tape off the other two connections (power/ground to pump motor and drivers side solenoid).

 

Now the list of CEL's that need to be disabled;

 

* P0410

* P0411

* P0413

* P0414

* P0415

* P0416

* P0417

* P0418

* P0419

* P2431

* P2432

* P2433

* P2441

* P2444

 

Once the CEL's are disabled you can open romraider logger with the key int he "on" position but the engine off. Check your atmospheric pressure reading. If it is good, so are you.

 

The ECU checks atmospheric pressure against manifold pressure at start up. If the two readings are too far apart, no fuel or spark. This is a safety feature Subaru built in. If the ECU determines that one of the sensors went bad while the car is running you go into limp mode. You wont see it anymore because you turned off the CEL. But the car will not run properly and might not start again after shutdown.

 

This is what lead everyone to think that deleting the air pump messed up the ECU. It is not a grounding issue. But a sensor issue.

 

If you do not want to cut the sensor out of the solenoid you could simply get a second block off plate (KS Tech makes one) for just the solenoid. You would have to block it off and leave it in place. Less weight reduction. Still in the way of your turbo (STi style) ad inlet. But better than nothing.

 

Hope this helps someone.

Eleven=

 

passenger side solenoid. Held down with two nuts just like drivers side.

 

Twelve and thirteen=

 

passenger side solenoid mounting studs.

 

Fourteen=

 

hard pipe from engine to passenger side solenoid. Release from motor then remove.

 

Fifteen and sixteen=

 

passenger side motor mount for hard pipe to solenoid. Remove two bolts and lift out through are in next pic.

 

Seventeen=

 

where hard pipe will exit from.

 

Eighteen and nineteen=

 

all the parts out.

 

Twenty=

 

drivers side solenoid and studs. I doubled up the nuts and then used them to back out the studs.

First=

 

the pump in all its glory.

 

Second=

 

the pumps two mounting points. Remove the two bolts, disconnect the electrical plug and release the hose clamp. Out it comes.

 

Third, fourth and fifth=

 

The plastic tube connecting the pump to the drivers side solenoid. Fifth being the bolt hole that mounts it. Remove the one bolt and the hose clamp at the drivers side solenoid. Out it comes

 

Six and seven=

 

the drivers side solenoid assembly.

 

Eight and nine=

driver side solenoid mount. Remove the two nuts and the hose clamp. Pull the tubing off and out it comes.

 

Ten=

 

the tubing from the drivers side to passenger side. Actually wraps around the back of the motor and then under the manifold. No hard mounting points.

Once again I was asked to document a project I undertook with my 2008 SpecB.

 

I have always hated the OEM air pump system. Sure it got rid of the cat in the uppipe, but at what expense? 10lbs of crap taking up valuable engine bay space?

 

I have read of many problems associated with the delete. Mainly that the ECU goes haywire. Well, I figured that all out. It was actually the reasearch I did to make my GM 3BAR MAP sensor work that led me to stumble upon the solution to deleting the air pump system.

 

So without further delay I give you my solution to the air pump fiasco.

DIY - 2007 to 2009 LGT-OBXT Air Pump Delete with CEL codes and ECU-Sensor fix.pdf

It can be done without removing the manifold.

 

It is a hard call sometimes as removing the manifod can be a pain. Sometimes you get lucky though.

 

I would remove the turbo, then remove the inlet and install the AVO. At least that way you have access at both sides of the manifold. Then I would use some form of lubricant (oil, soap?) to assist in getting the turbo to slide into the inlet (silicone can be sticky).

 

 

Thanks Dale! Did I get stickied? The few, the proud, the ... (no disrespect to the Marine Corp) stickied.

Your welcome.

 

If there are questions (this a quick and dirty walk through) just leave a post or shoot me PM. Happy to assist other members so they too have a successful turbo swap.

BNR paints them with the same paint they use on the coolant lines. I believe it is an OEM, but I do know they offer a 15lb actuator as an upgrade.

Pic 21=

The coolant supply line installed.

 

Reconnect the vacuum hoses. Now to reinstall your downpipe. Just reverse the removal procedure. Then reinstall your TMIC/FMIC.

 

Fill your coolant reservoir over the turbo if you pinched off the hoses. Replace your oil and coolant if you drained it like me.

 

I remove the fuel pump fuse and turn the engine over a few times to make sure the turbo is primed with coolant and oil. Then I start it up. It will smoke some as the oil residues burn off. Check for leaks. If none you can install your heatshield (after cool down).

 

I like to drive for 100+ miles in closed loop to "break in" the turbo.

 

The last 3 pix are just a few of my BNR EVO16g

Pic 11=

The oil line fitting and the coolant return hose. If clamping this hose be careful, the heat coating will probably crack at the least. No big deal.

 

Pic 12=

The coolant supply hose . You can clamp it off and remove from the turbo only.

 

Pic 13=

Coolant hoses removed, oil line removed.

 

Pic 14=

Another angle. Just need to release the clamp on the turbo inlet now and pull of the vacuum hoses.

 

Pic 15=

Turbo out. Just pull back and then straight up. Remember you are pulling the hose off the bottom pipe too. It might resist a little.

 

I also circled the "infamous" banjo bolt with filter. This is a 2008. On earlier models it was on the side instead of the top. Remove this banjo bolt. Then use a pick and remove the filter from inside the bolt. Replace.

 

Pic 16=

My trick to install the new turbo with no tools on the inlet. Put your gasket on the uppipe, remove the hex bolt holding the inlet tube in place, then use string or zip ties (like I did) wrapping around the inlet and the manifold.

 

The inlet faces a bit down. The turbo needs to go over the studs and onto the oil return line while going into the inlet all at the same time. If you release the inlet it has some play. Use the ties to hold the inlet up so that the "mouth" is slightly tilted up. You are lifting it as far as possible.

 

Pic 17=

Another angle of my zip ties.

 

Pic 18=

The turbo dropped back in. The oil line was mounted to the turbo before install. The coolant lines and oil line were checked for torque too. The oil return hose was attached in the same position as it came off.

 

When installing I rest the turbo on the uppipe studs from the top. I go underneath and align the oil return hose and tube. You can get the hose to just set a bit on the pipe with the turbo beginning to go onto the studs. From the top I drop the turbo over the studs while angling in the inlet. A little angle and wiggle and it will go in to the inlet as it falls over the studs and onto the oil return tube. You might have to do it a few times, be patient it will work. A second set of hands is a huge help, but I usually do it alone. If the inlet is sticking use a little motor oil on the inside of the inlet. It will help.

 

Once the turbo is sitting in place you can cut the zip ties and pull them out. Then torque down the turbo (3 bolts), I like to use some anti-seize on all the turbo to uppipe and downpipe bolts.. Then tighten the clamp on the inlet and replace the inlet hex bolt.

 

Go underneath and lift the spring clamp back onto the oil return hose now. too

 

Pic 19=

Oil line tightened back down and coolant return hose replaced.

 

Pic 20=

Another angle.

I know there are plenty of turbo install walkthroughs already. But with the release of the BNR hybrid turbos I thought this might help the numerous members purchasing these new turbos.

 

Because I already have a FMIC I am skipping the removal of the TMIC and starting with the turbo exposed. If you need instructions on removal of the TMIC please search.

 

I also changed the oil and coolant so my motor was dry during the swap. You do not have to do this. You wil lose very minimal oil (drops) and if you clamp off the coolant supply and return hoses you will lose minimal drops) of coolant too.

 

Pic 1=

The objective. You can see the top side turbo to downpipe bolts. You need to remove the two bolts on top and the nut on the passenger side.

 

Pic 2=

The bottom side turbo to downpipe studs. You need to remove the bottom nut and the drivers side nut.

 

All are accessible from the top except the very bottom nut (under the bell housing). Use some PB Blaster to assist in removal. If replacing the heatshield note the orientation of the bracket.

 

Pic 3=

The downpipe hanger connection to the tranny. You will need to remove this.

 

Pic 4=

The O2 sensor connection. Easiest to remove the plug here and leave the O2 in the pipe.

 

Pic 5=

The bottom connection of the turbo oil return line. Note the orientation of the hose and clamp. I marked mine with lines on top and bottom. Best to release the clamp and let it fall on the tube.

 

Pic 6=

The top connection of the turbo oil return hose. You cant get to it. Leave it alone. When you pull the turbo up the hose will still be attached to the turbo.

 

Pic 7=

The first uppipe to turbo bolt. PB Blaster again and remove.

 

Pic 8=

Another angle.

 

Pic 9=

The last two uppipe to turbo bolts. You need to remove these two as well.

 

Pic 10=

The flare fitting of the oil line. Use two wrenches on one top and one on bottom. Hold the bottom in place and break the top loose. It is tight. Be careful not to bend the pipe, it will break.

Easy. Especially with my tools and a real garage. Not in everyone elses driveway with rigged jacks, lol.

 

Seems I am always at a loss for jacks when not at home.

Busted out geterdun's Eibach spring install today. Should open my own Subie specialty shop, lol.

They are only tires. They wear out, lol. Next time for sure.