m sprank

Bryan (BNR) must be very pleased with the popularity of his turbo offerings. I am glad this thread is helping those that make the jump to stage3.

I have a "trick" I use for the pesky oil return line. I either cut a longer piece of new hose (easier) or if reusing OEM here is what I do.

 

OEM has a paint mark on it designating orientation. Note this when removing OEM turbo. Place hose on new turbo in exact same orientation. Use worm gear or similar clamp on turbo side. Use OEM spring clamp on bottom side. Set spring clamp on lower tube. It will fall to the turn in the tube. When installing the turbo be sure the hose lines up. When you push the turbo down the hose will start (if not go all the way on, a little motor oil helps for lube). If hose is not all the way seated, pull it down with hose pliers. Then use needle nose and grab the lower spring clip. Lift it up onto the hose. Done. Low pressure. Should not leak.

To make the install even easier, not have to measure, and not use a hacksaw...

 

Get a pipe cutter.

 

Home Depot:

Brand: BrassCraft

Part Number: T005

Cutting: 5/8 to 2 1/8" OD

 

Lowes:

Brand: SuperiorTool

Part Number: ST-2000

Cutting: 5/8 to 2 1/8" OD

 

I love clean, straight cuts. Easier, no sore arms, quicker, safer, perfect every time.

 

I used the Lowes one last time. My Rigid is overkill. But both the Lowes and HD work. Ask me how I know.

 

Just checked HD.com. The BrassCraft is $22.98. Spend $25 and do it like a Pro. You still have the tool for other projects later.

 

Set the blade of the cutter as close to the top of the strut as possible. The blade sits between the frame, so one side of the tool frame will rest against the silver edge of the strut top. The blade will be a hair below on the black body. The silver edge will guide the tool in a perfect straight line. The cut will be clean, just de-burr the inside. It will also be at the perfect height. No measuring required.

 

Work smarter, not harder.

 

Great write up Rick.

Not my cup of tea. Rutts or "the Rose". But obviously I have been to both. My office at ALC was 1 block from Rutts. It is a good LGT meet location. Thats what we used it for.

You mean truck stop hotdog stand, dont you? Rutts is no bar. If you are going to the "Legs and Eggs" bar better bring some iodine.

Always looking for a reason to come home.

 

15yrs experience in HVAC industry. Started as a mechanic and worked my way up to sales/management in the building controls industry. Worked for 2 different fortune 50 companies (UTI and JCI). Lots of training and experience. Previously worked for ALC NY/NJ and have experience with Manhattan market.

 

Any million dollar offers and I'm on a plane.

You have a FMIC. If you go 100% recirc you need the lighter spring. If you go 50/50 you need the heavier spring. No car idles using the GFB BPV at 100% recirc with a FMIC and the heavy spring.

 

You said you tried a OEM BPV and the problem persisted. This seems to say no. BPV should be closed at idle. Only issue with the BPV is a leak, not holding boost, or like I thought the first time, that your BPV was sticking open. That is why I replaced the gasket, took it apart and lubed it internally and adjusted it. If you tried another BPV and the problem was still there...

 

Is it misfiring on just cylinder3 now? If so, at least there is a place to focus on.

I have seen him misfire on all four cylinders. 3 just seems to be the first to throw a code. Could be loose wires on the coil packs. I have seen issues there after changes of plugs. I have seen superglue used back east to make the connections stay, lol.

 

If you moved the packs and changed the plugs and it is just cylinder 3 now, that is different.

Damn. When you told me you got the OEM plugs in I had my fingers crossed.

 

There is no fueling compensation table for idle based on motor temp. I tried. My car does not like hot starts on e85. It needs to richen up for starts when warm. Tune cant do it. I use my right foot. So, I am not sure tuning would help. I am sure Shamar could get the entire car dialed in better, but WTF?

 

No cam oiling codes or I would be going after cam oilers. FPR should be bad no matter what the motor temp. Same with injectors. Either they idle or they dont. Engine temp should not be a factor.

 

Gremlins. Friggin Gremlins.

He has a GFB. I have LOTS of experience with the GFB and plenty of tech time spent with Pete at GFB.

 

The spring setting is just to balance when the valve opens against surge. It has nothing to so with idle pressure.

 

I set it as tight as possible because we could not get the car to surge. I tried everything from the lightest setting to the stiffest with the same results.

 

Best performance is achieved when the spring fights the compressor to the last moment. This causes a "millisecond" surge. When the compressor and spring are fighting at just the right amount. The spring is opening and the compressor "coughs" as the pressure is released. I can make it happen perfectly in my car.

 

In the wagon I never got enough spring pressure to fight the compressor. Using the stiffer spring and 100% recirc (on a FMIC) causes the car to stall (all cars). I would recommend going 50/50 on the BPV and using the stiffer spring. The lighter spring is currently installed.

 

So, really you made no adjustments. All you did was move the spring pretension some. Like I said, I did this through the entire range moving at 1/2 turn increments. I had the same results as you. As soon as I started playing with the BPV everything was happy again. Next day, crapped out. Could try another BPV (OEM) as a test (I had none available at the time). But I fear the problem still exists.

 

It is an odd one, since the car ran fine before sitting. But if I could have the car for more than a few hours I am sure I can get it dialed in. I would love to get the OEM plugs back in and pull some data, then have Shamar look at the tune and fueling for me. I dont have a spare spring for the GFB, I have the lighter one spare. But I can get another and try that too. Would be easy to swap to an OEM BPV and use it as a test for day or two.

Yes. Twinscroll, FMIC, PE Injectors, HB Tune, Lots of nice parts. Love the wagon. It sat for 4-6 weeks while he wrapped it in flat white vinyl. Then after he restarted it, the misfire problem at idle began.

I did that once already. Replaced the gasket. Lubed the internals. Adjusted the crap out of it. Never got it tight enough to cause surge though. Worked like a champ for 2 days then went to crap.

 

After that I drained and wiped the tank. Ran a tank of race gas. Ran perfect. Once he went back to 91, crap.

 

I was holding off on the plugs till after the fuel. He ran the colder plugs for months with no issues. But, Bryan ran colder plugs for 1 year with no issues and then one day, bam. Same issue.

 

I pulled a plug and checked color and gap. All good. But, I figured the race gas would run better with the colder plugs. So, I intended to swap back to OEM plugs and see what happened. I dont see how all four injectors went south at the same time. His fuel pressure seems good too. I see no codes thrown from the cam oiling valves.

 

Car just misfires and stalls at idle (once warm). It is even "intermittent". Lets see how long the BPV plays nice now.

If you have aftermarket parts and anything is "off" dont expect 90%% of mechanics to know WTF is going on.

 

Heck, it takes me time to figure some issues out. Stage 3 cars, twinscroll set ups, fueling delivery/spark issues, interactions between aftermarket electronics devices. You name it, I see it.

 

Most mechanics dont get to see and work with all the different parts and set ups I or socal see. The engine bays of my own cars leave most mechanics scratching their heads.

 

Subies are a specialty. Bring yours to someone who knows them.

Thanks Joe.

 

What an event. Must have either missed by one tooth or had a cam on TDC2 the first time. Have not done that in more than 10 years. Last time was my 1987 Toyota truck. No big deal, just go back in and correct the mistake. Woops.

 

My OCD kicked into HIGH gear. I saw that the belt was no longer lined up with the timing marks on the gears. So, I pulled it and reinstalled. Then instead of just turning the motor over once, I cranked it 2 full revolutions of the belt. Figured that should get me back to where the belt started. WRONG. So, I pull the belt a good 5 times trying to figure out why the heck the car is coming out of timing when I rotate it by hand. Check every tooth of every gear as the belt goes around to make sure there is no slippage. Since I missed the first time I was hesitant to put it back together and just start it. Even though every other belt or chain I have ever done I just cranked it once by hand and let her rip.

 

It was dark and I was tired and weary, so I called itsme. He was gracious enough to come over and give me a second set of eyes. He saw what I saw after we installed the belt together (again). We both "assumed" the AVCS was not in play with the car in "N" and off. WRONG. It is deff not a 1:1 ratio from the crank to the cams.

 

End result. After itsme saw and confirmed what I had been questioning for 6 hours, I just put it back together and let her rip. Guess what. I had it right the whole time. I had just never actually cranked a motor by hand full revolutions of the belt and watched before. Not on a Subie. The belt is only lined up when you install it. I doubt it ever lines up again.

 

Embarrassing day for sure. Just glad the car was good to go when I left. I didn't get to sleep until 3am because I was so wound up about the damn day. You learn something new every day.

I have read good things about Slick50.

 

I'm gonna give up on gas, its too expensive. I'm switching to water from the hose. As for oil, I am too scared to use any, so I drained it and replaced with Superblue brake fluid.

e85. Corn FTW!

Thanks Rao. I too questioned why the pump could not take the lower voltage. Not like its pulling more current. But you know how the interweb is. Lots of good BS to read. I have not had an issue with just hooking mine up to the OEM electrical connection. Just read a bunch of crap about possible causes of failures.

 

If its good enough for Rob, its good enough for me.

I have debated for a while installing a relay to make the Walbro get full power all the time.

 

Only because the Walbro is not designed to run at different voltages. Sure any 12vdc electrical motor will operate at about 5-6 volts. Even many 110v motors will operate at less voltage (just hook them up to a light dimmer and watch). But I am hearing that the failures associated to Walbros (fewer than the rumors portray) are most likely due to feeding them low voltage and causing the motors to overheat and fail.

 

Rao, any thoughts (honestly, not sarcasm).

If the fog is isolated to the corner turn signal area of the lamp it is most likely the o-ring on the turn signal bulb. They have an issue sealing properly sometimes. I have also seen the main water cap o-ring leak. But there the leak is usually caused by the hole made for HID's.

 

Sent you a PM regarding clearing your lights.

This weekend is booked. Next week looks to be filling (lots of requests for quote). If you need it done fast, socal is probably your man. Not that I can't or won't do it. Just not sure of scheduling for you.

They charge $60 for headlight clearing. Plus they're in northern NJ and I'm in SE PA so I mail 1 day, they have the next, 2 days or so later they send back and I'm back in business in less than 5 days.

 

That makes sense. They also significantly lowered their prices.

Lightwerkz is a rip off. I charge way less then them.

^ +1.

Awesome. Sorry I could not make it. Had an appointment with Drew88. Installed an HTA68 (hybrid) turbo, FP oil supply line, KS Tech intake, Whiteline steering rack bushings, ProDrive cans and wrapped the DP. Then Base tuned it so Infamous can dial it in next weekend. Drew was a big help since we had so much to do in one day.

Installed Drew88's HTA68 hybrid today. Turbo went in smooth, darn FP oil line was a PAIN. Not meant for the 07-09 motor. Bad location and the 90deg fitting is hitting the inlet tube from the bottom.

 

This is NOT an issue on 05-06 models when using this line.

 

No pix, sorry.