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Posts posted by Zues Marine
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in pretty much every year except the '95... there is a rubber pop-out grommet
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When i did the AT to MT swap, I had to drill a hole in the firewall for the hydraulic pump in the 95' at least
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forester suspension is also what most people are running to lift these
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dang i didnt realize the f/d stayed the same that late into the model years..
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My speedo stopped working... so ive had about 235xxx for a year now
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Just to clarify; The outback struts are taller, there is no spacer increasing the ride height. Spacers may be needed to level out the aesthetics of the car due to the larger diameter of the front wheel well, compared to the rear one.
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yeah, there are body spacers in the OBs
read this to lower the Outback the correct way:
Ok, let me start this off by saying this project is not for the wimpy. I have a lift and every tool imaginable at my disposal.There are a few advantages to doing this to your car.
1. Suspension options
A: BD/BG can use any GT/L or GDB length strut without compromising suspension angles
B: BH/BK can use GT/L or JDM GT-B/B4 suspension without compromising suspension angles.
2. Increased chassis stiffness lower center of gravity and faster suspension response.
I've done this project to my BH and BG out back they are very similar.
The parts that make an Outback an Outback:
Front: Cross member spacers, dropped rear control arm mounts, longer cross-member bolts, longer steering coupler, longer strut bodies.
Center: Longer Pitch stop, Dropped transmission cross members, dropped rear shifter bushing (5mt), lowered drive shaft carrier bearing, heat shield spacers.
Rear: Cross member spacers, front diff mount spacers, longer cross member bolts, dropped front trailing link mounts, dropped sway bar mounts (BG/BD), longer strut housings.
Front process:
Jack the car up and support the front frame rails so you can get to the rear control arm bolts.
Remove the rear mount bolts and remove the front bolts from the control arms. Let the arms dangle. Remove the rear bushing and replace it with a standard unit (RS/WRX/ALK). Repeat on the other side.
Support the front cross-member with a jack at the jack plate (a friend would be helpful here). remove the two 17mm nuts holding the passenger side of the cross-member up. remove the drop bolts from on top of the frame rail. Lower the jack slowly. when there is a gap in between spacer and the cross-member. The spacer is held to the frame rail with a plastic clip (BG/BK) or with bolts (BH/BK). Remove the spacer.
Replace the drop bolts with standard units (RS/WRX), jack the cross-member up and reinstall the two 17mm nuts loosely.
Remove the two steering coupler bolts. Secure the steering wheel in the straight position.
In the BH/BE you can opt to replace the steering rack with a WRX or 04' STi unit (fine splines) and coupler (no rag joint). You will have to collapse the steering column slightly (tap on the end with hammer) and invert the key spline in the steering coupler.
In the BG/BD you can use GC8 racks (coarse spline).
Remove the two passenger side 17mm nuts and let the jack down till you can remove the spacer. The steering wheel coupler will have to be removed to drop this side. Replace the steering coupler with a Legacy L/GT unit. lift the cross member back into position and tighten the four 17mm nuts. reinstall the steering coupler bolts. Reinstall the control arms.
Once you've reinstalled everything underneath you can replace the struts with the replacement of your choice just make sure they GT/L length.
Center Process:
Remove the center heat shield.
Support the transmission with a jack. Remove the transmission cross member. 5mt cars, replace the rear shifter bushing. Replace the transmission cross member with a standard GT/L one.
Remove the heat shield spacers.
Remove the drive shaft and replace with a standard unit. For this to save cost I simply removed the mount bushings and secured the shaft to the floor again. You will get a tad more noise inside but this is how GC8's are.
Rear Process:
Support the front of the diff with a jack. Remove the front diff mount bolts. lower the jack and remove the spacers. Jack up the diff and install GT/L length bolts.
Remove the bolts from the front trailing arm mounts, then remove them from the trailing links. Replace them with L/GT/WRX units. Reinstall the bolts
Disconnect the rear sway bar end links. (BG/BD)
Support the rear of the diff with a jack. Remove the cross member bolts. Lower the jack till you can remove the spacers. Jack the cross member back up to meet the body then install L/GT/WRX/RS length bolts.
Replace the rear struts with the L/GT/GT-B/B4 length struts.
BG/BD owners will have to swap out the rear sway bar mounts for L/GT/RS units. Reinstall the rear sway bar end links.
Common Parts (BH/BK/BD/BG):
Cross member Complete AT 41011AE00A (Auto Trans Cross Member)
Cross member Complete Front 41011AE020 (5mt Cross member Front)
Cross member Complete Rear 41021AC240 (5mt Cross member Rear)
Cushion Rubber-Gear Shift 35036AA010 (Rear Shifter Bushing)
Front cross member drop bolts 20540AA030
Transverse Link Bushing- RH 20201FA050 (Rear Control Arm Bushing)
Transverse Link Bushing- LH 20201FA060 (Rear Control Arm Bushing)
Rod Assembly-Pitching Stop 41040FA000 (Pitch Stop)
BE/BH Specific Parts list: (00' BH/BE GT Part Numbers)
Universal Joint Assembly 34170AE040 (Steering Coupler)
Trailing Arm Bracket- RH 20540AE000 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Trailing Arm Bracket- LH 20540AE010 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Flange Bolt 901000179 (Rear Cross Member Bolt)
BD/BG Specific Parts: (96' BD/BG GT Part Numbers)
Universal Joint Assembly 34160AE010 (Steering Coupler)
Trailing Arm Bracket- RH 20520AA030 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Trailing Arm Bracket- LH 20520AA040 (Front Trailing Link Mount)
Flange Bolt 20540FC120 (Rear Cross Member Bolt)
Bracket-Stabilizer- RH 20520AA001 (Sway Bar Mounting Bracket)
Bracket-Stabilizer- LH 20520AA011 (Sway Bar Mounting Bracket)
Still working on some good quality pictures, not the best photo guy
If I missed anything let me know.
-Dylan @ DS1 Motorsports
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definitely upgrade your steering rack bushings as well.. amazing $40 difference!
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that has been done, its hollow... be careful tho..
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Are there any special procedures to check the fluid level in a 4EAT or do I just read the dipstick level
thats really all there is to it if youve not figured it out yet.. I believe there is a line for the trans at a cold temp and one for when its hot
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nice, i like the look of the non GTs lowered..
and i have a dent in the same spot on the other side of my car, Ha!
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so did you go with the ultimos or the normal ones?
I've been considering the Ultimos for a while now
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My VSS stopped reading speed at 235,942
i've got at least another 5k on there since that happened..should prolly fix that
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Possible you can just chamfer the pads to get rid of the squeel, unless the pads are below 3mm.
where on the pad would i do that?
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my right rear pads just started the death squeal, my shits falling apart
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I'm running that 25mm bar up front and a 22mm in the back, it's pretty balanced.
don't run these on stock endlinks though
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yep, offset is key... running a 17x7 with 225s and i am centimeters away from the strut
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It's all good, I found a guy selling one locally for $50 with all the hardware!
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in the mailbox headed to my house i hope!
right?? lol
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I agree on the older Tribeca being a better looking vehicle from the front and the back.
Gross, the Tribeca is the ugliest Subaru they've made so far, you crazies!
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^Justin are you looking for an outback wing or like a zero sports rarity? Asking because there is a black 98 outback limited with one here at a u-pull, I could probably pick up for like $50. I won't have a chance to get back out there until Saturday though.
I was just looking for the OB one for now so I can paint my car, if you're out there and can snag it i'd take it in a heartbeat!
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Coil Pack Upgrade –(*Important Info!) Provide a more complete combustion with a powerful spark in your ignition system which translates into more power and better MPG.
here you guys go
Second Gen. Aftermarket Parts and Upgrade Guide (Superceded)
in Second Generation Legacy (1994 - 1998)
Posted