snow05gtRI

Spotted a Silver LGT Wagon with black (?) wheels last night in Cambridge / Somerville. I turned on to Cameron off of Holland, right behind you. I flashed my lights a few times and honked when you turned off Cameron, before Mass Ave, and I continued on Cameron

I think it was kinda near Worcester... I was on the way back from Northampton / Amherst area. I figured it might have been him, as well. Stock wheels, though. But those might be his winter wheels?

 

I... didn't hate the giant wing as much as I thought I might

 

@Redslaya (does this work? I feel like there's a way to tag people in posts)

on Sunday early afternoon, on I-90 east, black LGT with big STi wing, at least an upgraded exhaust, possibly lowered, HIDs (I think). We exchanged waves and I kept going.

For a time I really came to dread dealing with my LGT and all things related, but I'm in a better place now and I am starting to enjoy it again. Might be on here a bit more often

 

glad to hear. I'm somewhat at that stage with my LGT right now. To the point I've been considering getting a new car. But, it's not really worth anything to anyone else, so I'd probably keep it and get a new car if I did.

 

trying to take a step back and just get it into reasonable order... then go from there.

It likely won't do anything, exceptions are rare.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-free-ssm-thread-151177.html

 

Change the fluid until it's fresh.

Lucas Trans Fix might help depending on the mode of failure.

 

he speaks!

 

glad to see you're still lurking

agreed with I3eXa. that's normal operations for cold ATF

I do not. Only electrical mods in my car are LED map/dome/door lights, LED reverse bulbs, and hella horns.

I've tried three different BtSsm adapters from heiche, including one he specially modified for my troubleshooting, and nothing has fixed it. I wonder if it's the OBDII port.

those also appear to happen at slope changes in the boost profile...

 

tried plotting it against injector duty cycle?

 

to close the loop on the alternator-maybe-source-of-dropouts topic: I asked iNVAR if he ever replaced his alternator and he said no, and he still doesn't have dropouts.

Borla one is great. Still loving mine, 8 years later. Quiet rumble putting around, has a good roar when you stomp on it.

Could the dropouts be caused by the grounding for the added sensors?

Both of my TGV's are being used as sensor inputs (oil press. and wbo2) and I've never seen any dropouts... not that it happens on every car.

 

I don't have any extra sensors and I don't believe anyone else I spoke with had any either. It's dropouts while logging from the OBDII when at WOT. I really hope it's just a logging dropout and not a complete hangup of the ECU... I feel like that would be more noticeable, though.

 

 

Did we end up upgrading your FP wiring? In the last year or so I discovered the original FP wiring upgrade was causing a parasitic drain on the battery. I was able to rewire it such that it maintained the benefit but didn't drain the battery: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html

 

we did not. want to?

 

edit: misread that. Thought it says "original FP wiring causing drain" ... not "original FP wiring upgrade causing drain" ... curses.

I'm planning to put the WBO2 in my Cobb bellmouth bung, so that V+ location sounds pretty close. Thanks for the direction on the wiring.

 

This got me wondering if the signal dropout could be related to alternator surge if the alternator is on the way out / on the fritz. My car has been parked for a few weeks and needed a jump this morning, and I noticed while driving to work (watching BtSsm) that my battery voltage was spiking to 15.5+ Volts. I wonder if iNVAR replaced their alternator in between the time that the dropouts happened and stopped happening.

 

I've had an issue with a parasitic drain for years (if I let it sit for longer than a week, especially in winter, the car completely loses all battery). I would like to think that the parasitic drain is NOT from a bad alternator, but the fact the battery voltage was spiking really high got me wondering if the alternator is bad. I dunno, could be also due to the fact that the battery voltage was so low, and the alternator might need reasonably good battery voltage for it's voltage regulator circuit.

 

Kinda tough to convince myself to replace my alternator when it seems like I have a parasitic drain, not an alternator-not-charging-battery problem. Once I drive the car for at least a half hour it will start consistently again until I let it sit for another week+

Do you remember where the grounding issue was? As in ECU ground, ODBII port ground, motor ground, ect? Several of my sensors appear noisy, so there may be something to grounding issues

 

When I was researching it for myself, I had PM'd seabass07 because I saw him comment he had the same WOT logging dropout issues that I had in post#4 of this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vag-com-cables-chipsets-ft232rl-ch340-214994.html

 

seabass07's response to me was:

I never really found a solution. Strizzy ended up getting a new ecu and that solved it. Some fixed it byvreolacing the grounds. I just stopped messing with it since my tune was good.

 

post #22 in that thread, iNVAR says:

I actually used to have this problem on my cable too but it seems to have gone away completely for the last few years. Don't know what ended up fixing it. It definitely was NOT the adding of the ferrite core although I don't think that hurt.

 

The consensus is that it is some sort of electrical interference, whether a bad ground, or voltage spike, or EM noise or something else.

 

A few people have modded their cables using a capacitor I think and it seems to have worked.

 

the rest of the thread is just about the VAG-COM chipsets. This was as far as I got with my research on WOT dropouts. I haven't fixed mine. I had some engine grounds reworked recently, but I haven't had a chance to test if anything is better yet since one of the wires on my EBCS mysteriously, very cleanly, became severed. I've also been on vacation.

 

 

Yep it plugs right in, you just have to remove one tab from the bottom with a knife. If you already have a wideband analog output in the cabin it’d be quicker to tap into the ECU wiring harness directly though. With a posi-tap it’d be a sub $10, sub 15 minute job.

 

I don't have one in the cabin. I have the AEM UEGO WBO2 sensor and sending unit. It doesn't have any gauges. Just the WBO2 sensor which goes to the processor that turns it into a 0-5V signal. I bought the very simplified version for the purpose of wiring it up to the TGV.

 

Any suggestions on proper ENGINE-ON 12V (I think it's 12V...) to use in the engine bay to power the WBO2 sensor? I was reading that the WBO2 sensor can overheat if the sensor is powered on without exhaust gas flowing over it. Otherwise I was figuring I'd just do the switched 12V that goes when you put the key into the START position. Don't want to chance some shop having my car and keying it on for a while and never starting the engine. Then again, I could just disconnect the sensor when I bring it in for service... Either way, question still stands, any suggestion on engine bay power source?

those dropouts may not be related to the openport or the laptop. I get similar dropouts on occasion. They last 1-2sec, like yours. I did a bunch of reading on it, other people have had similar problems. The belief is an electrical gremlin causing the data transfer to hang up in the ECU. Supposedly someone replaced their ECU and that fixed it, and others claimed relocating the grounds fixed it.

 

does that connector you're using for the FP sensor plug right into the TGV plug? I've still not wired up my WBO2 and that might make it much cleaner...

So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

are you in manual mode? do you have the HexMods VB?

 

If your answers are yes, manually downshift from 4 > 3 and it should happen less / not at all. It's something to do with when/how the car makes the decision to downshift on it's own. I usually downshift from 4>3 at higher than 20mph.

 

if your answers are not yes, it could be the same thing. I think I've had it happen when in automatic mode as well. I have the HexMods and don't really remember this happening much before then.

 

since it happened after your original rebuild, could possibly also have to do with how the TC is connected to the engine, maybe? I got my HexMods done at the same time my engine was pulled, so I have that in common with you.

 

only thing I can think of is the TC is trying to grab when you drop into 3rd but the speed is too low so it grabs hard then releases.

fluid level nominal? I know it's the standard check, but figured i'd ask.

 

what makes you think it's slipping? RPM flying up or RPM just climbing normal rate but car doesn't feel like it's moving? or does it feel like it's slipping while shifting?

 

failures in the past are usually top down, starting with 5th. Don't think I've read an account of someone's first gear failing before others.

OpenSource. Guess I'll poke around.

wish I knew how to do that to my tune. I have the HexMods VB kit which is basically the TransGo (if you're just talking about the TransGo VB).

Yeah I bought the "street" rallitek trans bushing but never put it in, still sitting BNIB. the bushings I'm putting in are for the rear diff.

I have the Group N motor and pitch stop on mine. some serious NVH transferred to the passenger compartment, especially when the engine is cold.

 

Having diff bushing inserts and diff outrigger bushings being put in at the moment. I'm interesting to see how that makes the driveline feel.

heat shield loose on your exhaust manifolds or above midpipe on exhaust?

 

the connection point on my passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield rotted through the exact circumference of the bolt that attaches it to the underbody and it was rattling against the bolt.

BTW I used the crush washer sold by Subaru. The plain copper washer that was on there before showed no signs of leakage, so maybe the crush washer is not essential.

 

just to make sure... you're putting the crush washer between the plug and the pan, right? and not inside the oil filter?

 

I have a friend who put it on the oil filter on his first Subaru oil change.

Thats true Alex but the engine shouldn't die.

 

agreed, was just responding to this quote as to confirm the 100% is normal operations.

 

Hey guys followed along on all the post about the fuel pump rewiring. Finally got around to wiring it up. Followed exactly to the diagrams. Car fires right runs for about 1 min then dies. Noticed duty cycle at 100% on fire up and stays at 100% for fuel pump. Not sure what is going on at this point any help would be great thanks guys

i'm pretty sure FP Duty Cycle is normally 100% at startup for a moderate duration. Once you hit the gas or idle stabilizes it usually drops to 33%. I was watching FPDC for a little while to see if a sound I was hearing was related.

I mean to my list of parameters to watch on BtSsm