f1anatic

Weasel brought in a 12 V line from battery which I wired to (-) and (+) fused 15A and the ACC(IGN) wire is a line from the cig lighter.

I have had no issues with double starts. YET.

i put my shit together. It is phucking workin. 35% of it(navi and music). I have to reposition the PC...and install the TV module (today i just left it out). DVD actually works butif I am to reposition, i will need an external one. And OBD 2. I have to wait on final release of Centrafuse before I twitch my finger on the purchase button.

 

For some reason the auto switch function for the skin in iGuidance is not working. Annoying. I have to do it manually and that is like 5 clicks.

F1, no need to buy one, I have several. And why the questions about running wires to the trunk, were you not conscious during the 10 minutes it took me to get wire from your engine bay into the trunk, zip tied and trim put back together?

The biggest problem in the LGT running large amounts of wire is the bracing in the floor which creates several obstructions along the way. No big deal. We'll get it done.

 

F1 loves Weasels.

At your earliest convenience please. I have almost had an aneurism looking at my car today. I want all that shit (wires) gone ...hidden...navi working...and the rear seat back in the car. Maybe cause I could put it to good use...maybe because I find it an eye sore without it. But I want my car back in one piece.

I am afraid of "stiffies". i mean stiffer fish.

 

Really now...how do you do it? Cause I tried and failed.

Das fisk tape vill nicht helfen. Cause you can't push it under that damn carpet.

Well why didn"t you tell me directly that you volunteer to do this job for me bro ? I had to find it out from others :-( What kind of friend are you...Thanks for the offer though. Let me know when. :-)

Guys I will take any hints on how to run the wires to the trunk in my sedan. I tried over the week-end to do it by going straight from the centre console to the trunk but that 90 deg angle is a bitch. Any other ideas ? I have to go to either side to the doorstep and run it over there (peeling the entire carpet forward as much as possible) I imagine. Any other hints or suggestions ? All i was able to do it break that centre pop-it.

BMAC

 

Plug in the USB GPS wherever you plug it usually.

Go to my computer - right click - properties - hardware - device manager - ports - select port (gps) (it will be a serial port, even if you connect it via USB) and let's assume it is port#1 - right click - properties - port setting - and now you can

1) change the bits per second

2) under advanced settings you hould put the receive; transmit buffers to max

3) flow control: none vs hardware

 

 

see if that makes a difference

 

I do not have the gps on my laptop right now but my port bit rate is 9600 and the buffers maxed out with no flow control

I'm using iGuidance 3 (which most people say is the "best" GPS Software for CarPC's) and its slooooooow in updating, and is ALWAYS about 500 feet off. The turn by turn directions are too behind to be useful, I have to use the map and my eyes instead.

 

BMAC, I am using iG3 myself - both for the CarPC and on a standalone laptop unit - for when i am using the minivan.

 

While I cannot speak for your setup - I do not have trouble with iGuidance being 500 ft behind. On the minivan I have a Sirf Star II unit mounted (usb) and I plug it in the laptop. That one stays on top of the car and it is almost dead on.

 

In the car - well I have a Sirf Star 3 (the BU353) that most of us have. But I have not used that yet, My feeling is that somewhere somehow you do not have the WAAS enabled and/or are not getting a strong enough satellite reception. Are you sporting any tinting on the rear window ? The brand of tints may affect reception. While I admit I have not played with it that much, there must be a way to setup your refresh rate.

When I was running the aftermarket i-way 500c; I had the external antenna mounted behind the 3rd brake light and it was dead on.

 

OEM stuff may incorporate distance measurements and speed sensor inputs from the car to make it more accurate

Lol Clark ! - but he is a Brit living in Canada and active on a mostly US forum. I am Romanian living in US and active in a mostly US forum. See the difference ?

he is an imported foreigner !

when's the beer event ?

 

my shit ain't fully functional just yet but the main hardware is inside the car. Weasel gave me rave reviews.

Well I know my carnetix power supply (which is broken and was sent back to the manufacturer) (i bought it broken apparently) has a feature that if the voltage drops below 12 V or it has been more than 3 days since you last turned on the car; it will shut off automatically. Yeah - they're called smart cause it monitors stuff !

 

With regards to my project; I am building up the case for the laptop to cover it in the trunk.

 

BMC, I have reached the conclusion that I should NOT power my setup from the cigarette lighter. Search on my issue with the Carnetix pwr supply in the POwer Supply section on MP3car.com. I will take it from the battery (thank you Weasel for running the wire for me).

 

I bought a 15 AMP fuse holder to wire it in at the battery for my power supply. however bad weather in CHicago has prevented me from doing meaningful work on the car. Attention is on the case in the trunk for now. Last major fabrication effort.

No Seb. I am not into CAD.

While making your own case is indeed the ultimate custom job for your custom PC; why not try to modify an existing case ?

 

I finally decided how I am mounting my laptop. It will stand flat on the trunk floor, in a box that I am fabricating out of an aluminium suitcase. It will have a cooling fan underneath; otherwise holes drilled for venting and what not. It will stand about 10 cm from the trunk floor and I will be able to put reasonably heavy stuff on top of the case.

Seb, trust me, when I switch to a real custom PC, you are designing my enclosure.

I actually used "Black Sandable Primer" haha

 

No texture, but also no shine either (Color is a pretty dead match to OEM). Bought it at WalMart

 

Thanks man. I decided my shine gotta to go. Presto.

Guys I want the paint code for the pain you used on your bezels. I am unhappy with mine.

BMAC, thanks for the advice. Hold on to that enclosure for me...Let me figure out my PSU gremlins first. But it is a phenomenal idea...and looks like the car was bought like that.

 

So you think running the xenarc and the laptop off the cig. lighter should be ok ?

That's soooooo sexy ! BMAC ! Did you make two ?

 

Is it ok to run the Xenarc and the laptop from this PSU which is connected to the front cigarette lighter (NOT USED for anything else) and power for my 2 usb hubs and radar detector from the center console plug ?

 

Or do I have to get juice for the PSU from the battery and then the yellow ignition wire just solder to anything (+) that gets power only when key is ON or ACC ?

 

I will try to merge the red(+) and yellow (ign) wires together and see what happens...if my PSU outputs anything or not ?

 

Had I not used a laptop (which has a battery), I would have had no chance for this setup. But since the laptop may shut off on its own...when it reaches 90% battery power (or whichever way I wanna do it) I wonder if my way works or not ?

It is just that one phucker.

 

Can I just merge the yellow wire with the red (+) wire from the PSU and call it a day ?

I am having trouble with my Carnetix P1900 PSU. Anyone can help me ? If any of you have this PSU; then I will give you the details.

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=97202

And fishbone you say nothing about my setup...How dare you !

Car PCs usually run to about 1000 (+/- 250) once is all set and done. Depends on how much fabrication, how many accessories and software is everyone running - and definitely how much of the assets s/he already has (like in my case a laptop).

naaah i will keep it