f1anatic

I ran 2 x 10 gauge wires from the battery to the back of the car where the power source is. Actually it was a wire that I scavenged off a vacuum cleaner - so pretty sturdy and thick one may say. I bought the automotive fuse holder from Pep Boys (the one that takes the larger fuses). One of the wires is (+) and carries the fuse, about 20 cm from the battery and the other (-) duh. However I "grounded" mine at the battery. I felt the more I avoid the chassis, the better it will be.

 

It is rather difficult to take pictures of the area where the wires pass thru the firewall. I had a local member do it. Funky Weasel is much better at explaining since he did it for me. He ran them thru the doorstep on the left side of the car to the rear - my power source is in the trunk.

 

The battery connectors : I had a thick copper metal sheet from which I cut 2 pieces, drilled holes thru it and soldered the wires onto. Then attached them to screws of those clamps that get hooked to the battery terminals (English pawns me here but you know what I mean). I am sure you could purchase something less ghetto in the store.

I subscribe: there is no GT kit for Car PC. False advertisement.

then your problem is the hack job VGA connector

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

 

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)

DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)

DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)

DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)

DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4

DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)

DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)

DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)

DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)

DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)

DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTH. SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)

DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)

DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)

 

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

 

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM

DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570

DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated

DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3

DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551

DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM

DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4

DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)

DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)

DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200

DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS

DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600

DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600

DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600

DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610

DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610

DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

I have to say I was getting a lot of interference at some point early on...and then I proceeded more scientifically: I saw whatever resolution the monitor was working on (actually 1024 x 878 ?) had a different refresh rate than the Windows output. So I went into the display settings and matched the frequency to that of the monitor.

 

In my case I was getting some fine horizontal lines.

 

Nowadays, the monitor will just refresh itself every now and then ...and lose the illumination settings (like brightness)...It is not something done on a regular basis...and so far I put up with it.

Seb...maybe you're running the wires next to something which produces strong EMF interference. I do not know...but obviously it seems like a solitary case. Reroute rather than wrap. And change the damn wire altogether - unless you have it under the carpet thus making diagnostics a priority over replacement.

I s'pose I never showed you my enclosure...did I ?

So BMAC what is your boot time?

 

I have been editing services and GUI for ever and I am at 1m30s boot time; going thru the Desktop and then automatically loading Centrafuse (created a shortcut in the Startup foldeR). BUT this is wa too long and it got so long after I installed the wireless adapter. Which I do not want to take out nor disable. So I am stuck with a long boot time. I would hope to take it under 1 min but I do not know how. The PC at home boots in like 24 seconds (2200 GHz AMD Athlon 64; 1500 mb Ram; SATA 10,000 rpm C drive and loading shit like firewall, anti virus, calendar etc) but this one in the car running nothing is a "killuh" ! (1.1 Ghz Intel P3, 512 mb ram). I know it is old...but come on...!

 

I am not sure what fake gimmick the Centrafuse system shell is...but it did shit for me. Boot time seemed even slower but when using a stop watch it was virtually identical (an improvement of 2 seconds).

Silver GT with Iowa Plates and D (Deutschland) sticker on rear glass parked in Boys' Town (Halsted/Clark/Diversey)

BMAC I got a question for you.

If you run Centrafuse as a system shell; and then you want to exit to the desktop and use Windows as a regular PC (say you add more songs) how do you do it ? Simply exiting Centrafuse will make Explorer load up ? OR do you need a keyboard and need to hit the Windows Button, hit RUN, type Explorer.exe and wait for it to load ?

Looks great. I would have asked you to give me your skin...However I built my system around Centrafuse. May not have been the smartest choice.

 

what's the use for the CPU and RAM info ?

there's no navi bezel on the 2005. If you mean 2006...look around...it is the same as 07...08...

Let's talk about boosting the GPS signal. My GPS is mounted (in a sedan) on top of the middle child seat latch (between the middle headrest and the 3rd brake light). I am using the BU-353 and I often find it loses signal. True that - in downtown's urban canyon which doesn't but sometimes it may happen even on city streets. I want to improve; boost the signal. One way is to mount it elsewhere inside the car ? But where ? The other is to mount it outside but...where except the roof ? And the USB cable is THICK (and short) ! I could have tried the trunk...but it is aluminium...

 

While looking to speed up XP's boot I cam up with this

http://www.neowin.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=235571

 

I must say I have downloaded Tune_XP_1.5 and it reduced my boot time in half. However it is still in the 35 second range. I wish I could run Centrafuse as a system shell...but I am afraid to mess up something. Is there a way to make explorer NOT start at the startup without adversely affecting the PC ? (well I know where to go make it an automatic, manual or disabled process. But I have never done it and I am very afraid).

 

Last but not least...I have trouble with my wireless card. Every time I pop it in...it makes the boot time...LOOOOOONG !

Kelvrick, some people here swear by the laptop, some don not. The advantage of a laptop over a regular PC is the available battery. You can use it to play a role in your power off scheme. And of course you can take the laptop out and work the bugs out if and when. However if you want absolute "factory" type of work, you've gotta build your own and take advantage of the smartness of a Carnetix power supply... which you may wire in such way that you can totally turn on or off the system from your ignition key. I would say go with the custom parts.

 

And no, there will be no room over the spare tire for a laptop...if you have a full size. I should probably show pix of where and how I mounted mine.

No Dave, you know I ain't hatin'. I know you actually liked mine so much more in person than in pix. But the price of the unit you posted is steep. The equivalent unit - purchased all from MP3car.com - (Ampie Case, processor, mo-bo, pwr source, in dash flip out screen etc) will make it close to 1100 - while they sell for something like 1600. With navigation still being optional.

 

Again, I am just complaining that they aren't helping in making this infotainment more affordable. Like everything else...the more manufacturers are there, the lower the prices and the more people have it.

 

Also, if I had to guess, none of their in-dash solutions would fit the Legacy. Those double din units seem bulky - plus you need the space in the back for all those cords and cables. I complained of space with a hacked up panel screen...don't even wanna think of a double din.

 

DIY for the win!

 

I wouldn't be able to buy the monitor with the entire amount I spent on my Project. And I can argue any of our projects don't look nor do they perform much worse. Quite the contrary is true.

Peep dis SHIZEL!

 

http://www.hipepc.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=102

 

Das ist X-PENSIF

Sounds good, like it.

 

Why'd you choose to put the hibernate and shutdown buttons, doesnt your PSU handle that anyways?

 

I have a laptop so it really is just the software that would do it. I am cool with that...hibernation causes me zero problems and only takes 10 seconds. I can always let the PC turn off by itself ... BUT I seem to lose the settings for the monitor that way (brightness, contrast). Rather than investigating that I just instructed myself to do things differently.

I have finally decided what my buttons will be

GPS - MEDIA - DVD

HIBERNATE - BLANK - SHUTDOWN

 

INTERNET - APOI (Netstumbler) - WEATHER

ECU (to launch Tari Soft) - TV - CAM

 

MIXER - SETTINGS - TOOLS

RESTART - SHUT DOWN - HIBERNATE

I saw f1's live in person yesterday and I have to say I'm pretty damn impressed.

 

Thank you Dave.

 

I wanna share with you guys. i bought the ELM SCAN 5 tool to get OBD-2 readings into my Centrafuse. While i did make it work, the refresh rate was horrible and the units of measurement are absolutely ridiculous: imperial units are in Hg - inches of Mercury) while metric units are kilo Pascals. Apparently none of the folks at Flux Media have a turbo car. Everyone uses PSI - Euros or Japanese or Americans. It simply is THE unit of choice. Anyways, I am sending the unit back and will use the money for other purposes. At this point in time, OBD-2 via Centrafuse's native software is NOT worth pursuing.

I grounded the computer at the battery for fear of interference.

 

I know I am in charge of the INDEX in this thread and I have slacked recently

were you not supposedto send me something about centrafuse my friend ?

Speechless BMAC. You have out OEMed Subaru. That navi bezel seriously looks made in Japan on a production line. You have my utmost respect.

 

Now I really have to go back to my initial post and edit things into a Table of Contents.

so which one of us is running the latest centrafuse creation ? Cause my serial # expired last night and I need to upgrade to C1.1 and i wanna make sure i can still dick with the GPS while driving (well not me but my navigator).

Sweet BMAC !

Seb is making the cases for the PC...

 

Hmmm I will do the touchpad controllers !

 

Let's open up a shop ! Shit...we're in 3 different parts of the continent.

-----------

I am not sure what mould BMAC is doing but ideally, I see it as some sort of bezel that people can just screw in and to it attach the internals of either a Xenarc or a Lilliput. Something that any 10 year old could do with a screw driver. Whichever one of us will do that and then expand into a few more models like G35, Impreza, Lancer, Z, will strike it rich.