It affects time delays and minor table references. It should be independent of the tune.
So adding the resistor later shouldn't mess up a tune.
And sorry, I didn't say it in a few posts back, it was in a different thread that should probably be merged with this one.
As I just said a few posts back, you eliminate the CEL, but the ECU still delays the OL/CL transition. The proper modification is to remove the sensor and install the resistor.
If you want gloves near a saw, wear latex or nitrile gloves.
A bare finger that touches a saw will get cut. A gloved finger will get sucked into the saw, followed by the hand, then arm, and possibly more.
There is a reason why I say use a meter to check everything.
I don't know why people are frying their BIU's... I do electrical work on cars everyday and have never damaged anything.
Just remember the creedo, " I am a modder and I have no warranty."
If you had read more then the last two pages you'd know that we've argued the crap out of the fact that you CAN blow a high power sub with a low power amp.
I took it to the drag strip and repeatedly dropped the clutch at 5000+rpm using all 450 ftlbs . Nothing broke.
I shifted into 2nd from third at 7200rpm. Pegged the tach at 9000+. Nothing broke.