mwiener2

They don't break that easily so you don't need an upgraded one. If you think you need a stronger tranny, sti 6spd.

They both probably have the same actual Chinese made bearing assembly in them.

I'm gonna have to go check mine now. It's obviously never bothered me.

I'm pretty sure it works with all the doors. It has a switch like the dome light.... On-Off-Door

The rear wagon light is already supposed to come on when the doors open.

If it will shift with the car off, but not on, it's because the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Because you have been driving a car with a broken or improperly installed clutch, you broke your tranny.

You can say that about any part of the car. It's a gear tooth. And your clutch is probably borked which is what is causing the shifting problems. Stop driving the car..... unless you don't care.

I've seen a turbo explode from an intake snapping shut at high rpm. Bad bad bad.

I took it out. It really should cure at least 2 full days before using

I used to get the fuel line vibration in the driver dash area sometimes.... now I get it almost all the time. No pics. It looks like stock but with some goo mushed into it.

I might go to town with that stuff and fill my whole car.

Filled my driveshaft hanger bushing with Windo-Weld Polyurethane. Significant improvement in surging issues and overall driveline slack. Been meaning to do this for 5 years.

The Moore plates are meant for 02-05 wrx's. The 05+ legacy's and 06+ wrx's have the "hardened“ 5mt which seems to be almost as strong as the 6mt.

#465 boostinroo - mead, co

I know, I posted it at least 2 other times.

From Aeromotive: 10.) Q: I heard that to use the 340 Stealth Pump you have to upgrade the OEM factory fuel pump wiring, and possibly the relay and fuse/breaker, is this true and why? A: The wiring used to power the fuel pump plays a key role in supporting the electric motor that runs the pumping mechanism. It’s the combination of motor torque and the pumping mechanism speed it produces that enable the incredible flow the Stealth 340 is known for. The factory fuel pump wiring and electrical components were engineered for a fuel pump drawing ¼ to ½ the current. Failure to upgrade this wiring, including the relay and breaker/fuse assembly, may result in a substantial reduction in performance of the new 340 Stealth. The 340 Stealth Fuel Pump is a break-through in OEM replacement fuel pump technology. It is capable of flowing 33% more than conventional, performance replacement fuel pumps, and as much as 100%-300% more than the vehicles original pump. For proper installation and to ensure the optimum performance and service life, please see the installation instructions on page 2 to view the flow and current draw at pressure chart, and the bottom of page 3 for wiring recommendations. Ensure proper wiring, your new 340 Pump, and your engine, depend on it! NOTE: For specific wiring kit recommendations, see FAQ #16. Funny thing is their FAQ stops at #15. Good luck fitting a 460 in one of these housings. I've done it once, I'm not proud of the install, but it works and makes 507hp at the wheels.

Yeah, it's only a problem when you install a a fuel pump that says, "Must upgrade wiring to use this pump!", in the instructions. So if you haven't done that, don't worry about it.

Are you going to try and control an A1000 with this guy?

I heard 5250 Performance has a special on Timing Belts right now. $700 installed with a Blue Racing Belt. New water pump, idlers, tensioner and thermostat too.

you'll eventually cool the whole tank down

Put it in the return line

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=32030

there's a factory fuel temp sensor

I want one in my intercooler

I don't think your math makes sense. If it's a 240w pump, and it's 30% efficient, than 160w would be going towards heating the fuel. At idle, the engine is making a HP or two. Just enough to overcome the frictional losses and to run the accessories. The regulation of the pump is primarily for evaporative emissions purposes.