mwiener2

I've taken apart hundreds of Subaru motors. It's obvious if it had conditioner in it.

The conditioner will gunk up your entire cooling system and cause it to underperform. It was meant to combat the leaking headgaskets on the NON-turbo legacy's of the early 2000's. The common headgaket failures of these engines was caused by a chemical breakdown of the gasket. The conditioner was a band-aid from Subaru to reduce the amount of warranty claims. DO NOT PUT THE CONDITONER IN A TURBO SUBARU!!! or any car...

I have been professionally working on Subarus for over 13 years. DO NOT USE THE CONDITIONER!!!

DO NOT use the conditioner. It will only make a mess of your cooling system. It will not help or prevent any issues.

Will CX racing parts work, yes. Will anyone be impressed with the design, fitment, or performance, no.

You need a new mechanic.

2010-2012 LGT motors mount to the body by the oil pan. There are extra bolt holes (2) along the front edge of the pan mounting surface. These are 8mm holes whereas the rest of the EJ's are all 6mm holes. 4 of the 6mm holes have been enlarged to 8mm for a total of six 8mm mounting points that the rest of the EJ's don't have. The actual block casting is slightly different. It has been reinforced to accept these larger mounting holes. While it may be possible to retap and add these 8mm points to an EJ257, the lack of reinforcement may cause the oil pan to separate and leak, or the case could crack under the stress. Other than these changes to the oil pan mounting, the blocks are the same. This information provided by http://www.5250Performance.com

2010-2012 LGT motors mount to the body by the oil pan. There are extra bolt holes (2) along the front edge of the pan mounting surface. These are 8mm holes whereas the rest of the EJ's are all 6mm holes. 4 of the 6mm holes have been enlarged to 8mm for a total of six 8mm mounting points that the rest of the EJ's don't have. The actual block casting is slightly different. It has been reinforced to accept these larger mounting holes. While it may be possible to retap and add these 8mm points to an EJ257, the lack of reinforcement may cause the oil pan to separate and leak, or the case could crack under the stress. Other than these changes to the oil pan mounting, the blocks are the same. This information provided by http://www.5250Performance.com

I use the TurboX in my shop when I make exhaust pipes. Liked what GrimmSpeed was using and figured out what it was years ago.

O wow. Zinger! Got me! I mean really, what kind of idiot drives off the road in a snowstorm.

Don't forget to set the timing properly when you change those belts. Wouldn't want to damage the motor.

I'm always impressed when I type in LegacyGt.com and I don't get a 404

15-20 hours would be normal charges for a shop to do a full swap.

GrimmSpeed pipes are NOT coated on the inside. The coating they use is from Techline and is called Turbo X. It is not meant to be used inside pipes. TURBO X™ Turbo X is a silicone ceramic coating designed to be applied primarily to exhaust components. When applied to exhaust systems, Turbo X will remain color stable at exhaust gas temperatures up to 2000°F. Due to its unique ceramic nature, the coating also functions as a very effective thermal barrier, with reduced thermal radiation characteristics. The coating cures to a very hard, durable surface with excellent adhesion. Turbo X is designed to be cured in an industrial oven. Corrosion and chemical resistance is only achieved after the coating reaches a full cure. Extreme temperature exhaust component coating designed especially for turbos. Reduces temperature under the hood and on the exhaust manifold surface. Improves exhaust gas velocity, resulting in horsepower increase. Designed for single coat coverage. Dry film thickness of .001″ to .0015″. Can be applied over a base primer coating such as PrevCor, MCS or HHBK. Solvent based. Recommend full cure at 600°F for one hour. Oven baking recommended. Easy cleanup with Acetone or similar. Available in Satin Black (Part #TXBK) and Blue (Part #TXBL). Available in Quart and Gallon to professional applicators only.

You're gonna get a lot of mixed information on this one... In general, the stock front oxygen sensor is considered a narrowband sensor. It outputs a 0-1 volt signal to the ECU and is most accurate between 13:1 and 15:1 AFR's. Most professional dyno tuners would not rely on the this sensor for tuning. Many E-tuners DO rely on these sensors. This is a topic of debate. The AEM sensor is a true wideband with a 0-5v volt output and is accurate between 8:1 and 20:1 AFR's The difference in readings you are getting between the two sensors is a possible cause for concern. The discrepancy could be caused by a sensor calibration issue, a failing sensor, an exhaust leak, or an actual tune issue. If the two sensors agree most of the time, but not under certain conditions, I would suspect a leak of some kind.

The conditioner was meant to be a fix to a chemical issue that caused the headgasket to deteriorate. It was not meant to fix leaks, it will not fix leaks. It will fill your cooling system with a sludge that is very difficult to remove and will reduce cooling capacity. Subaru has not recommended the use of the conditioner for any of its vehicles in almost 10 years. A significant coolant leak like the OP described is most likely an actual leak, and not a headgasket issue.

No chemical additive will fix your issue. It will simply make a mess of your cooling system.

The main issue that this thread is centered around has been diagnosed and known solutions exist. It's not a question if the issue is real or not. This thread should be closed to prevent new people from posting unrelated info that further clogs and disorients people from finding real solutions. There ARE many things that can cause running issues, but a single thread cannot contain all the answers. False knock can be caused by loose heat shields or an old motor with increasing clearances that cause mechanical noise. These are not related to the original content of this post. This thread has become a poop bucket of people's frustrations with little guidance on properly diagnosing and fixing the underlying issues. These cars are becoming old and many are developing problems. This thread is not the first place these people should be looking for help, but many new posters come here for solutions. This thread has become, "Post your issues about your car and hope someone replies with a magical fix." Please close this thread. Force people to actually search instead of adding to the mess.

This thread needs to be closed. The actual stumble/stutter situation is caused by fuel pressure pulsation created by the factory fuel pressure regulator setup and the location of the pressure reference line to the FPR. COBB has addressed this issue on the plastic intake manifold WRX's and has retrofit kits available that fit the LGT's. There are also DIY fixes that are well documented. Most of the people chiming into this thread have unrelated issues to the original problem.

In theory, it should not effect emissions, unless you go with a vent to atmosphere version like the IAG Competition series. This is going to be very state to state dependant, but most states (that even check this kind of thing) will not fail for an AOS. In Colorado, we are quickly turning into California as far as emissions goes. I have never heard of a fail due to an AOS. They have plenty of other things to pick on.

The oil cap style like the GrimmSpeed are better than the factory system, but not by much. We do not offer this style to our customers and request that they replace them with an IAG or equivalent AOS when Stage 2 or higher. Reasoning behind this... they don't work.

Factory PCV system returns oil vapors to the intake. This coats the entire intake with oil residue. The layer of oil on the walls of the intercooler reduces thermal transfer, reducing the effectiveness of the intercooler. Oil vapor will also reduce the effective octane of your fuel which will increase the chances of knock. If you can afford the AOS, get it.

People still visit this site? I got here following an ad from PDX Tuning...

I don't think "Location" refers to the area on the car...

2010-2012 LGT motors mount to the body by the oil pan. There are extra bolt holes (2) along the front edge of the pan mounting surface. These are 8mm holes whereas the rest of the EJ's are all 6mm holes. 4 of the 6mm holes have been enlarged to 8mm for a total of six 8mm mounting points that the rest of the EJ's don't have. The actual block casting is slightly different. It has been reinforced to accept these larger mounting holes. While it may be possible to retap and add these 8mm points to an EJ257, the lack of reinforcement may cause the oil pan to separate and leak, or the case could crack under the stress. Other than these changes to the oil pan mounting, the blocks are the same. This information provided by http://www.5250Performance.com