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ViscousSquirrel

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Everything posted by ViscousSquirrel

  1. I can’t tell you how many new parts I have bought that were out of spec or non functional. Again. No one on here can tell you what YOU should do with your time an money. As a business person I look at from an opportunity cost and a risk perspective. If the bearing is bad and you drive it until it explodes what are the possible risks and costs associated with that? A tow, a ruined input shaft etc. look up project management risk analysis tools if you’re unfamiliar with how to do that assessment. What’s the time and cost to pull it all apart and check the spec on the bearing you purchased. Subaru doesn’t build that part. That part is outsourced to a 3rd party vendor. That vendor WILL have manufacturer defects. This is what warranties are for. Those are internal defect numbers so I couldn’t tell you what they are and I’m not in product development. Pretending that you can’t get a bad part is naive. The challenger exploded from a bad quality management process in a Vendor that made a seal. The engineer in you that says don’t throw parts at a problem is half right. If you have a problem and replacing every part in the system is cheaper in labor than the diagnostic cost to find the actual problem, what do you do? If you’re running into down time and you have loss of use what’s that worth to you? Personally I like doing my own work and I would have spent the time you have been sitting on it pulling everything apart and checking both the work and the parts. But again, there’s no loss to me there because I don’t mind doing the work. I also have several cars so the down time is meaningless to me. At the end of the day it’s your decision but any decision is better than no decision. Paralysis through analysis.
  2. In all honesty you have a pretty good idea what the issue is. You either drive it like that or you replace it and that decision can't be made for you by anyone on the forums. You may want to climb under it and shake the exhaust and make sure you're not hearing a heatshield just to make you feel better about your decision.
  3. It's the throwout bearing. You are describing exactly what a throwout bearing rattle sounds like.
  4. I wish I had followed your logic. I had to pull the engine on mine the day after I got it installed, post rebuild, because the head gaskets didn’t seal on what seemed to be a great Mating surface. That was an unpleasant Scenario and I wish I had machined them before having them shipped.
  5. The gift that keeps on giving. 2020 vacation pix, I wish I had some vacation pix... Stupid Covid.
  6. Unhook the battery and wait for a few minutes for all the capacitors to discharge then have at it.
  7. No you didn’t hurt anything. What you’re describing is just the throw out bearing rattling.
  8. This makes me feel slightly better about all the cash that was thrown into my engine bay and lit on fire.
  9. 100% this! FlatIrons is fantabulous <---Word of the day. They are very knowledgeable, honest and helpful.
  10. Mine leaked from the center of the valve itself not at the oil pan. It would never fully "shut off"
  11. I think what he's concerned with is having to remove the valves and having to get new valve stem seals and generally doing a full rebuild on the head to have it hot tanked. I think I have full set of valve stem seals here (new, came with my master gasket kit) If you need them, you can have them.
  12. I bought one of those valves. It leaked. I know a lot of people love them but I’ll stick with a standard bolt. I have the plastic lock washer if someone wants it.
  13. Would you PM a price on both of the dampers. I converted to top feed with the stock rails and everything and honestly I don't know what else I need to finish hooking this up to the car aside from those dampers. Thanks
  14. Meh. Why the hell not, you’re right you have nothing to lose but time. The first time I built one from scratch was kinda fun. Don’t forget the o-rings in between the block halves and don’t use too much threebond and you’ll probably be fine.
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