ViscousSquirrel

Benny did not know the answer on the Oil Control Valves, as afar as the differences between the changeover in 2010 is concerned. So I suppose I'll find out here shortly when the new one shows up.

Is that a thrashed Banjo bolt next to the heat shield? What's the story on that, it looks gruesome?

Well, a friend is sending me a set of factory manifolds with good mating surfaces so I can put my exhaust issues to bed. I am really not a fan of headers on street cars. I picked some new Grimmspeed gaskets and I grabbed the double thick one that hopefully will prevent a leak from the factory manifold to the aftermarket catless uppipe. Thanks for the tip on the thick gaskets BTW, I appreciate it.

Without going through your entire 32 page thread, did you machine the crank and run thicker bearings? Back in my Mitsubishi days we used to have issues like this when turning the crank and using thicker bearings. The 6g72 in the 3000gt also had issues with clearance between the bottom of the pan and the oil pickup. So if you went over a speed bump too quickly and dented the pan it would starve the engine of oil. This isn't so much an issue in a Subaru but worth a check. How does your oil pickup tube look? Is it still seated properly, any silicone in it? Is it cracked? Are the bolts loose? Alternatively, I have seen quite a few engines get assembled without plastigauging the bearing clearances. If they were too tight, boom. On flat 4 engines in particular there's issues with people using too much sealant when assembling the block or when installing the oil pump. The silicone breaks off and clogs oil passages and all kinds of nastiness ensues. I have also seen blown turbos (also bearings) send shrapnel into the system which then scores a bearing and interrupts oil flow enough to spin a bearing. Then again I have pulled some engines apart with enough metal embedded in the soft bearing material to make me wonder how they ran at all. So this one is kind of a crap-shoot. If I were a betting man, I would bet that you would bend valves before your timing was off by enough to create enough preignition to obliterate a bearing. Not that Subaru's are extremely tolerant to such occurrences but still. ARP bolt snapped huh...I wonder if they were over torqued...

Sorry, yeah exhaust to uppipe my bad. I need more sleep and less dyslexia.

Yeah... I was thinking the red RTV route might work as well but I REALLY don't want to go that way... . Yeah it's the downpipe flange on the exhaust manifold that bolts to the downpipe coming from the turbo.

That bearing looks like it was starved of oil and seized to me. Did you find any silicone stuck anywhere in the system? I can't really see the other bearing surfaces very well in the photo but you said another rod bearing was trashed? Did you plastigauge the bearings?

Holy oil starvation batman!

I’m subbing for some finished photos

Got the intake installed today. I was going to mount the exhaust but it was pretty corroded. I used a while wheel on a drill as well as block sanding to get them to this point but the down pipe flange is looking like a lost cause. The head shields are 170k miles of "rust welded" in place by the exhaust bolts and I can't get in there to really block sand the flange. Any have any ideas on the usability of these headers given the condition of the DP flange? I ordered a 2014 WRX Oil Control Valve to see if maybe that will fit in the other head.

Got some Company 23 tools in the mail today, still waiting for a few more to be able to do the timing. I put on their vacuum line T while I was at it. Look at that shiny new piston peaking out through the head and valve cover.

Air pump deletes installed. Got the brand new cam gears lightly placed in there, soon to be, new home with new bolts. I really wasn't expecting to have to buy 4 new cam gears

Will do thanks!

The OCVs changed mid year in 2010 but I don’t know if the bore changed or not?

Well, I have run into an issue. The heads I have are D25 heads (replacing the b25 heads I had stock). I am aware that there will be a slight bump in compression ratio,m which doesn’t concern me. What does concern me is that I went to plug my AVCS oil control valve into the head on the drivers side and the shaft of the control valve wouldn’t slide into the head, it was too fat. The passenger side head had no such issue however. On FASTWRX.com they note that the part number is different for the d25 head after 2011. These are off a 2014 I believe. The drivers and passenger OCVs are the same part number are they not? It looks like the plug is different between the old d25/b25 and the newer d25 as well? https://www.fastwrx.com/products/subaru-oem-oil-control-valve-ocv-for-avcs Does anyone have any ideas or experience with this I am at a loss.

Wow that looks amazing. I am super jealous of your workshop and skills!

I picked it up today, thanks.

I'm looking at these oil feed lines... any reason I should use the turbo feed bolt with the extremely restrictive hole vs the stock one with the larger hole and the banjo filter removed? https://www.iagperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IAG%2DENG%2D2070

Thanks, no I don't think it will be an issue, it's one of the pins that holds the intake in place so I'll just try to round the hole back out a bit and insert another pin. I might just block sand it flat and leave it as it isn't necessary. On the other hand it wasn't necessary for UPS to play soccer with it either but such is life.

Damn, now I wish I had painted mine while they were off. Those look much better. Any reason you're not going to gut those while you have them off. NVM I see you live in California. Although I bet you could gut them and leave just the rod and no one would ever know... I mean I would never condone such thing how dare I!

ARP Head studs installed, new factory head gaskets and the heads were torqued to perfection. And I sayith, let there be longblock! and there was Longblock. There was much rejoicing in the land of Wife ("Great, now get that pile out of my garage stall") Little did the kingdom of wife know that I am still waiting on several hoses and associated "odds and ends" that wont be here until late September.

After some careful consideration (several beers) I decided that it would be a great idea to block sand it down and see how it came out. Worst case scenario it ends up at the machine shop I was going to have to take it to anyway. The results were pretty good. I spent quite a while with a bloc and some 600 grit. Yes I could have done it faster with a lower grit but I also have a very large chance of messing it up if i didn't use a high grit and take my time. I think it came out quite well as it the straight edge tells a story of indistinguishable flatness.

Thanks UPS! The second head showed up yesterday and it looked like they had dropped it down a flight of stairs. I opened the box and found some damage to the head. UPS drivers response "Sorry Brah my bad". So upon further examination int he garage i could see that the corner of the mating surface of the head had been smushed up an 1/8in into the head gasket mating area. Also, one of the drift pins for the intake had been mangled and the hole in the head ovaled. one of the bolt holes was also slightly mushroomed as well.

That's funny my first thought was Perrin but I keep hearing Cobb. To each their own I guess. I really did not enjoy installing the Perrin the last time around. This time around the intake won't be in the car so it should be pretty easy.

That might be the most useful detailed response I have ever had ever for basically anything. I want to take the time to thank you properly for imparting your knowledge. I think given the information here I will avoid the Basalt based products like the plague. I have no desire to deal with any more of those kinds of hazards ever again in my life. We don't have a race track here so unfortunately I haven't been able to race car in 5-6 years. So this is a street only car for the time being but it's hot here, really hot, all year round and rubber tends to just dry up and fall apart so I think I'll take oyur advice and grab these products and see how they work out. "HD Lava Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-lava-shield Looks like there's an improvement on the Lava Shield called Cobra Shield. Its chemical & weather resistant so would work better on the lower PS hoses. ymmv. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-cobra-shield" "Velcro hose sleeves. Continuous is 1100 degrees so you'll have to be careful how close it is to the turbo or exhaust. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-velcro-thermaflect-sleeve" How hot is the turbo actually running? I was just going to keep the metal heat shields. I wonder if I ran a duct directly to the turbo, or rotate it away from the engine or both if that would help. Mainly I just want the rubber to last more than 5 years and keep all the plastic from degrading. SO keeping the turbo heat either, IN, or cooling it actively while shielding the rubber hoses is my goal.