StoplightAssassin

Just get a new hoop. Those old fiberglass boards break and lose their bounce over time. The paint will probably chip off after shooting around for a couple weeks. That style backboard can be had for under $100 now. I'll post pics when we move into our new house. It has a dedicated 40x25 court in the backyard. Eventually I'd like to extend it to 50x30 to have a college regulation width so can rain 3s all day. The bad part about it is that it has a hoop like ones you'd find at your local outdoor court. That thing looks like it'll be a total PITA to remove when I want to drop in a 72" Spalding hoop.

Yes and no. No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error. Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.

Not a good alignment. The camber specs you proposed will lead to an understeering car. Basically, you want more negative camber in the front than rear. McPherson strut cars lose negative camber very quickly through their motion range. The double wishbone (or multilink, same difference) in the rear will lose negative camber much slower than the front mcstrut. So with the camber specs you proposed, while cornering your front outside tire (the tire that does the most cornering work) may actually lose enough negative camber to go in the positive range (this is bad for grip) while the rear may still have negative camber. The optimal camber for any tire while cornering is 0. 0 camber while cornering means the most tire possible is in contact with the road (contact patch). See my thoughts below for 0 toe. 0 toe will make the car rotate much easier, and when I say much easier, I mean the car will bite you in the ass if you aren't careful. If you aren't serious into autocross, I'd recommend running some toe in on the rear. The car will be much more stable at highway speeds and safe for anyone else not accustomed to driving your car.

Anybody lay a vinyl roll on a kitchen floor before? Looks like a PITA, but my options are limited because 1. where it's going is a rental (so not spending a ton of money) 2. the floor is pretty uneven. The flooring store wanted $1100 for an install of their cheapest roll. No thanks, for that cost I'd install tiles myself. My sister did peel and stick tiles with grout in her kitchen. It actually looks fantastic, but I don't think it would hold up well to renters who DGAF

I think I mostly took care of my water penetration issues I've always had in my basement. I got up on a ladder and saw the drip rail is a good 4 to 5 inches away from the gutter. I got 2 rolls of 8 inch aluminum flashing, bent it all up and went right over the old, ineffective drip rail and sealed up whatever I could. The hose test gave the results I was looking for. I'm anxious for a really rainy day to see how much water still gets in the basement, but nothing is in the forecast.

Floor tiles? What do they look like? My garage has asbestos tiles that I just painted with outdoor latex and they still look great after 3 years.

syncros = yes. sounds like your 4th gear syncro is bad. if you're extremely lucky it might just be something like a bad shifter bushing, but you'd notice a lot of slop in the shifter (more so than usual) center diff bearings = more of a preventative maintenance thing. mine make a decent amount of noise and my LGT has 60k less than yours, but I also have stiff bushings that transmit a lot more noise than stock. the trans doesn't have to be removed to access the center diff, but they'd charge you a lot less labor to replace the bearings now, as opposed to another repair down the road. just something to consider

Look at it this way, the trans has to come out to repair the syncros anyway, so they won't charge you much for the clutch install, just parts. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, get it repaired asap so you don't screw up your gears and acquire additional parts costs. If the trans is coming out, I'd replace the center diff bearings while its out.

I also made a couple changes, additions, and clarifications in the AX section.

Holy shit that's a lot of crap in the bb filter. FWIW I never had more than a fleck or two in mine. I usually check once every 2 years. Is the car on its original turbo still? I'd pull the DP and check the turbo for shaft play ASAP. A full oil system flush is probably in order too.

Don't forget a respirator! It's not bad outside, just a dust mask will do, but inside would suck with out one.

Yup, rented a floor sander from home depot. Think it was like 80 bucks with the cost of the rental and pads. The rails and such didn't really need much, but I hit them with my orbital where needed.

This was last weekends project. Years of neglect from the previous owner (and 2 by me trying to figure out what I wanted to do with it). The deck after I power washed it. I didn't take a pic post sanding. You will splinter the wood when power washing. The final product.

The Rustoleum kit on its own is ok. It is ridiculously messy to apply the color chips and it requires a lot of sanding. The top coating it comes with is not all that thick and nowhere near as glossy as how it finished. We weren't too happy with how it turned out before I bought the additional epoxy. I don't think the Rustoleum kit by itself would last more than a few years without the additional epoxy coating.

Here's the bar I built last summer. The finished wood is all oak with maple trim. The foot rail is galvanized piping from Home Depot. I used some Wurth's silver on it to give it a great shine. The top is a sheet of aluminium that I sanded to give it that brushed look. Then I poured epoxy over it to protect it. This is the bar I built for my brother-in-law. He wanted a "classy rustic" look. The finished wood is mostly oak with maple trim. The front is actually just sandply. The top is oak flooring. I did a blow torch finish up top with a bunch of coats of poly. The foot rail is 1 inch galvanized piping. There's a color changing led lighting kit under the rail. You can kinda see the red glow under the front in this pic.

I've done a bunch of relatively inexpensive stuff around my house. My kitchen mini-project turned out pretty well considering it only cost about $400 worth of materials. The countertops are one of those rustoleum granite transformation kits. I put a thick UV resistant epoxy coating on the top, which is why it's so glossy.

All Legacy meet + too much fun on the road

Ahh. Good old Lake Nockamixon...where some 50+ Legacies all got pulled over at the same time.

I've read the 12 ton press is too weak. Someone on another forum posted pics of the center girder bending. Get the 20 ton.

Saw a black OBXT on 95s last night a couple miles south of Philly Intl. Looked stock except for the big SPT sticker

Saw a silver bm gt with rimzzzz pass me at the wawa in oaklyn around 730 tonight

There's hardly any 5mt trans failures reported. If your car is and was always stock, I'd have pretty good faith that the trans itself is fine. It'll hold stg 2 power no problem as long as you can drive. Now if you bang shift gears all the time...well that's a different story.

Hope you haven't done this yet. The 07 WRX 5spd has weaker gears than the LGTs. You definitely DO NOT WANT that trans.

So then they'd have to call each manufacturer to get the latest revision of the ROM. I doubt any car over a year old is still on it's original factory ROM, just from manufacturers revisions alone. So, even if they did this and verified the checksum is different than the reported current manufacturer's revision, how can they fail you? I've never read any literature indicating it is unlawful to change your ECU's parameters. If it were, dealerships all over the country would have to report it when they hook up to your ECU and they find it's been flashed.

I've only ever known the OBDII test in NJ. It isn't bad.