StoplightAssassin

I see some things never change. It won't be long before you guys are making posts about the quality of Subaru paint jobs.

Mostly yes? You do realize that running toe out, especially in the rear, is setting the car up to oversteer and track poorly in a straight line. The closer the amount of toe in or out is to 0, the less it will wear the tires. Fwiw I run toe in in the rear of my LGT and it's fine at the track and on the street.

You don't want your DD to have a tendency to oversteer. Going 0 toe all around helps the car turn in quicker, but the limited amount of camber means the car won't corner as hard as it could otherwise.

More camber in the front. -1.5 is decent for a street alignment. Little less camber in the rear. Or you can keep your rear camber the same and try to get to -2.0 in the front. You may get some light inner tire wear towards the end of the tires life. Is that front toe in or out? I would add some rear toe in if this is mainly a street driven car.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn43nlAQqJA]Zonda Inspired Twin turbo Audi V8 filmed 5/1/2015 - YouTube[/ame]

Really? The OP took my idea and capitalized off of it? You could at least give me some ******* credit for stealing my design. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-diy-jdm-spec-b-grille-114000.html

I guess we have E46 M3 and Charlotte Hornets fans on the boards. http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r638/diezel48/DSC_0010_zps870f9b2d.jpg http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=199066&d=1418967808

Make sure you check the rules as well. It doesn't appear you really had a targeted class to race in, but swapping motors to something non oem or an oem equivalent can dump you into classes where a street car is not competitive at all. And yes I am aware the trans swap probably already put you into those high classes.

Blanket statement? Maybe, but I know that only a degree of negative camber in the front will lead to understeer on the LGT. Of course there's other settings one can change, but we're talking about a weekend warrior from what it sounds like. I wouldn't want to drive something that stiffly sprung (and with the tires to match)on the street, to compensate for the lack of camber. And yes I mean the mcstrut is mathematically gaining camber through turns. As a McStrut compresses it will move from negative camber values towards 0, but this only happens towards the top of its range of motion ie very hard cornering. However, a mcstrut will also gain negative camber as the wheels are turned. How that looks on an LGT, I don't know, I never took the time to model the suspension geometrym nor do i want to . Overall the main culprit for camber gain is body roll. I haven't seen an LGT yet that didn't have some roll, and I've seen my fair share of everything from weekend warriors to very stiff LGT's on A6s.

Running the same camber all around will lead to understeer. The front will gain camber much faster than the rear while loading up. Ideally you dial in the front camber and base your rear camber off of that, depending on your application. Probably about half a degree less for DE and a full degree less for AX. A lot depends on driving style and preference. I used to change my front camber at events depending on the course layout.

I would recommend a little toe in in the rear if this is a daily driven car, especially if you aren't the sole driver.

Eh. I've autocrossed a Nissan GTR a few times. It's very fast, but even with all of the driver's aids off (and they're never fully off) it keeps you guessing what it's going to do. It's also a pig.

Nice build! God I'd love to let that GTR rip!

My grandfather was in the fire service all his life and served as the county fire Marshall for years. He still serves in the executive part of his local company. I never served myself, but I learned a great deal over many beers with him. The rooftop solar panels, especially in industrial settings pose great risks. Firefighters already try not to go into buildings with truss designs unless loss of life is imminent. The truss is a cheap, lightweight, and effective design for making large spaces without much interior support from the span to the ground. However, the lack of interior support makes it especially susceptible to collapse in a fire extremely quickly and without warning. The additional weight of solar panels makes it worse in a fire. At the entrance to many big box stores or warehouses, you might notice a red and white triangle with a f or r in it. It indicates the building's roof is a truss and what type of truss it is. Solar panels also pose a risk for line workers. My uncle runs line crews in DE and SJ. When they shut off power to work on the local lines, local solar panels can still feed power back into the grid. One home with panels is more than enough to kill a man.

Food for thought... If you get solar panels on your roof, you better get 30 year shingles first installed by a damn good roofing company that will warrant their work, even with the panels. Also, solar panels on a roof can hinder a fire rescue. The Dietz and Watson factory was lost in a fire here b/c the chief refused to send his guys onto the roof which had 7000 panels. Soon after the roof collapsed. The panels can't be shut off from the street like normal electricity can, so they pose a huge electrocution risk.

oh em gee. that web site looks like a kid's personal angelfire website circa 2001

Just to get it all out there, the level of prep between SCCA Rallycross and Rally America (etc) and rule set is monstrous. Many people in SCCA Rallycross race their daily drivers. In most cases all you need to bring with you is a mechanically sound car with all seasons. While some cars have a large monetary investment, it's nothing compared to a staged rally series. For a staged rally, we're talking about purpose built race cars stripped down to the frames and then seam welded, all the while adhering to strict rules. If you really wanted to get into staged rallies, the best thing to do is to buy someone's rally car with logbook.

You need a substantial investment into a dedicated car, tow rig, safety equipment, and licensing. Event entry is usually quite expensive as well plus all of the consumables. If that doesn't scare you off try rally America. NASA also has a rally series. Some hillclimbs will allow limited prep, street driven cars to enter, but I would highly caution against doing so.

Try Rallispec in Berlin NJ http://www.rallispec.com/

I can confirm that. The PO of my rental home drylocked the basement, but didn't do anything to repair the leaking gutters. The basement walls are crumbling because of it.

Urinals in the main living space cheapen the home. One might be OK in a man cave.

I added the best tire size calculator I've seen at the very bottom of post #1 http://bndtechsource.ucoz.com/index/tire_data_calculator/0-20

3 options... 1. You'll need to put in a camber bolt in the front with a larger adjustment range than stock http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414 or 2. get adjustable rear control arms and go with less negative camber in the rear. (like they're using above) or 3. a rear camber correction kit: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA326 I would go with #1 and run about -2 degrees of camber. This is close to what I run and I don't have any wear on the insides of my tires. It's too much toe that kills tire, and my car has very little toe.

What's your setup?

Nothing at all wrong with a polycarbonate board (or acrylic, which is more popular). They look great, hold up well to abuse, and are relatively cheap. Just make sure it is secured as tightly as possible to give the maximum bounce. Here's a nice one from Dick's. http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=22456436&cp=4406646.4413887.4414024.4415109