StoplightAssassin

June 25th in Atlantic City we have an autocross scheduled at Bader Field. If you guys are interested, I could set aside a class just for LGT.com.

Nobody wants to see a bunch of spicy Malibus.

It's interesting to see how fast DS has gotten. The turbo Camaro is a DS beast too. I like STH. I wish they would move the 228i/230i there. I likely would've gotten one already since I fit in them really well.

Updated and added a couple things. New autocross class Extreme Street A and added a section for Time Trials. Been a long time since I saw an LGT at an event. Gotta wonder how many are left. I believe I saw in a Fasttrack that the LGT was being considered to move to GS, so I may need to update again soon.

Would have been great if not for that ending. Didn't care for that at all. Some parts didn't make sense and some parts just made me mad.

I collect personal data from forums and sell it to the highest bidder and make lootcakes.

Depending on the region you run, you may be surprised at how under prepared some cars are for their classes. A set of Hoosiers go a long way.

They class cars when they are officially released. Probably FS for the 3.3 and DS for the 2.0. Write a letter asking for it to be classed and it should be included in the next Fastrack.

I updated the autocross section to reflect some interesting rule changes in Street Touring and Street Prepared that effect the classing and competitiveness of the LGT.

I rented an auger once for planting arbovitae. It was awful trying to work in the hard soil. The next time I had to dig a couple holes, I dug them a 6 inches deep, filled them with water and then came back the next day. Took me 5 minutes with a post hole digger to get 3 feet down.

IMO, the LWFW was the worst mod I ever did to my car. Drivability suffered greatly and it chattered like crazy on decel.

Fair enough, but that looks like a stud in the lower right part of the picture.

And since we're on roofs, got two estimates to redo my roof and gutters so far...$7150, $8100, and one more on Monday. The low price so far is actually a pretty reputable company, so I was happy about that.

Yes, but don't do it like this guy. Work with the rubber from the ceiling to the floor, with each lower piece overlapping. But IMO, this is not the way to stop water penetration. You're still allowing water into the foundation. The foundation on the outside should be trenched and then the rubber panels should be placed on the outside. Allowing a lot of water into the foundation is still going to cause problems down the line. Drylock may work for some to stop seepage, but it won't stop a legitimate problem. But before that, you have to figure out WHY there's a buildup of water coming in. A lot of times poor grading is to blame, a gutter(s) not draining/catching roof water properly, clay soil, sump pump not functioning...etc

There's always used R-comps for sale on bimmerforums in the classifieds section. You can also volunteer for working a race weekend at your local track and many of the teams will sell you their scuffs for pennies on the dollar. A lot of them will also mount and balance them for you.

Well Andy, a. He went through a lot of shitty ideas before he ultimately realized my solution was the best one. b. If it's noted its been done before, maybe someone should look into it a bit further? c. His walkthrough consists of cut out the stock grille (which walkthroughs already exist on this topic), cutout the CV grille, and then cut the CV grille so it fits inside the Legacy grille, glue it all together and so on.. It's exactly what I've told the many people that I've guided in making their grille DIY JDM Spec B grilles via PM. There's no cut off 5/16 here and use 3/4 bondo there. It's all try, try, try again til it all fits. So thanks for being a concerned citizen Andy.

You must not autocross much

Other than seat time, camber is what you need. That's why you need camber plates. You can get to your event an extra 15 minutes early, jack up the front end, dial in more negative camber with the plates, run your event, and then put it back to your street setting. You can have your shop put marks on the plates for you for street and event settings.

That's where a big part of your problem lies. That's nowhere near enough negative camber. Changing out the springs at this point is only going to change how the car feels on turn in and in slaloms. Once the outside front wheel gains back that small amount of camber in longer turns, you'll very quickly start to plow. Always maximize your current setup before changing hardware, unless that involves purchasing camber plates, which should 100% be your next purchase.

What alignment settings are you running? It doesn't look like you have much negative camber at all.

Ugh god. A lane of cones the whole way through. I'll never understand why some regions set the cones up this way.

That was about an hour away from me. This one happened last year...also about an hour away from me http://www.nj.com/mercer/index.ssf/2015/03/fatal_ewing_gas_explosion_bpu_issues_historic_fine.html

Money well spent! According to HGTV, you've added $100,000 of value to your home.

Nice crown moulding. Did you do the work yourself?

Not joking. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, look into paint protection.