gathermewool

Neither my previous STI nor my current came with a front plate holder. I ended up installing a Subtle Solutions bracket where the front tow hook goes. For the Legacy, I bought a nice holder for the stock location (required drilling, backed up with sticky tape) and it looks really nice. What is actually holding your plate to the bumper? Did you drill holes and zip-tie it? I don't think we have hole for a front tow-hook, do we?

No way! :p:p:p:p:p

I used to do the same thing. It took me all of a few months to get used to the reverse screen...jealous??? I know what you mean about the difference in screen size. I still look at all three mirrors while reversing with my wife's '14 Forester, it's that freaking tiny. I admittedly do the same thing in my '15 Legacy, but 75%+ of my attention is on the screen.

That's pretty good for an FB25!!!

Excellent. Thanks!

Interesting. Mind elaborating? Heating up which joints? Remember, reefer joints don't count, brother!

Why would dark tint affect the backup camera?

I'm still waiting for my DyodeDynamics order to come in. I got brighter yellow fogs (only used when there's actual fog or heavy snow) and the brightest reverse lights for both the '15 Legacy and '14 FXT. Did you end up with the brightest back-up LED? Is it blindingly bright at night or a practical increase in usable lumens?

Just ordered some DiodeDynamics' bulbs for the fogs and reverse lights. Pretty freaking expensive, but I'm hoping they're well-made and will last a long time, compared to Ebay specials. Makes sense. How many shows do you do a year, roughly? How long will you keep your Leggy before it's either too old to show or you get tired of it? Any plans for what you'll be getting next?

That belt still had some life left in it!

It was super easy to do on my '97 Legacy GT and '08 STI, so I can't see why this would be more complicated. It would be worth $80 to me, either, but it would bother me enough to pull the card and see if I could fix something, as is being discussed.

Yea, sorry, I can't recall if our go no-go is 5 ohms or 0.5 ohm, which is related to continuity checks on longer runs of wiring (one end of cable to ground to other end of cable), not circuit checks. The problem with my continuity checks, was that my probes were too larger to get a good read. I had to poke and move the probes around a bit and look on my DMM for the lowest value as I did that. What you say makes sense, though, since the check was across a very low run of circuit, without any components in series. The only resistance should almost literally be just the soldered connection. It had also been a while since I last soldered something that mattered, so my temperature control "muscle" memory was way off! I was either melting too much of the lead or having it stick too soon. I eventually got what worked, but it was by no means of professional quality. It reminded me of how poorly I do at overhead stick-welding! I used to be pretty good at horizontal, OK at vertical, but always screwed up over-head welds, even with a helper, who would ensure I was using the right amperage. I'll take a look at that book and see if I can get better, so the next time I don't EDIT: the paperback of the book you referenced is only $4.49 with free shipping! Thanks!

Take a before and after pic of the board, if you can show enough detail of the failed circuit location. If you can re-solder a connection where the previous solder overheated and melted away, that would be great! My mother-in-law was ready to get a new dryer after hers stopped working. I Googled the code it was throwing and it said that the equivalent of the motherboard needed to be replaced for big bucks. I was able to pull it, find the melted soldered connection and re-solder it in a few minutes. My soldering skills suck, compared to when I first learned more than a decade ago, since I haven't had do much soldering since then, but I got the job done! It has been more than six months with the repair still holding! Note: it took me a few times to get the solder to create a good connection. My first several attempts resulted in open-circuits or high-resistance connections, which would likely have over-heated and failed again. I measured continuity from one side of the soldered connection to the opposite side to determine when the connection was good enough (< 5 ohms is good, but for such a small circuit I shot for as close to zero as possible). It took way more solder than likely needed, but it worked.

That would look really stupid, IMO. It would also look pretty obvious to the po po.

Holy shit, that's dark!

Absolutely - barring any affect from drive-train inter-connectivity, every car is effectively all-wheel-stop (AWS). // I was contemplating taking my lumbar support out, based on posts here (or maybe it was SF.org), but decided not to. Instead, I spent a lot of time moving the lumbar support in and out to find the right spot. What I found, was that I like to adjust it from time to time; that what's best for my back is to adjust it every so often, based on how long I'm in the car. Seems to work just fine.

I understand. Thanks for the response.

Fair enough. Sorry for jumping to conclusions. With that low of annual mileage, why not buy used or lease? Nothing wrong with doing what you want. I'm just curious. I was able to get my '15 Legacy Premium for $15,750 with ~30k miles on 'er.

Ah, so you're still under warranty. If not, then I stand by my statement.

6-months, ~600 miles OCI's sounds like a complete and utter waste! I would suggest changing yearly, and even that is a waste, IMO.

That's what we have on both of our Subies. I had WS70s on my previous STI. The Continental winters worked well on our previous Civic, too, though. When our Forester couldn't get out of our spot in the parking lot (stock tires), the Civic (w/ winters) plowed right through and out! It's amazing that snow tires trump AWD, including X-MODE, and ground clearance!

Mobil 0W-20 XG= Fram Ultra (used to be Extended Guard) - weird keeping XG instead of UG, IMO. I run Fram Ultras on both of our Subies. They're great filters!

Ah, that makes sense. Which winter tires are you running?

Where do you live? I think I've got at least another month before I need to install ours. Last year, I don't think I had to install them until late December or early January, it was so mild. That might have been the winter before.

Looks good, leg6gen, and welcome!