gathermewool

On 7/13/2022 at 5:28 PM, solidxsnake said:

Excellent... glad this update has gone through at long last. Only gripe so far is that there's no dark theme... any chance that's in the works?

Scroll to the bottom (posting quote so they see the answer)

No one has ever presented statistical data that would support such conclusions. If you have objective evidence to share, we'd be glad to see it. Anecdotal reports are not evidence.

Just an anecdote, but my new OE bearing (its first replacement) started failing soon after replacement. It’s now as bad as it was before the replacement, but has not gotten worse. I’ll replace it if it gets worse or starts to grind.

It very well could be the opposite side bearing, but it sounds identical to the previous failed bearing.

yolo 19x9.5

is close enough lol besides im running same size tire so im sure it will be fine

 

 

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That’s just about the most ghetto thing I’ve seen in this thread so far. Awful!

Thank you,

 

I do not worry about PCV valves. Generally change them out at 100,000 anyway. Its a part that is either broken or not. No in between.

Both of mine were OK, but still gunked up well before 100k. One shoe does not fit us all.

I'm sorry, I just figured the title was self explanatory, but if not, then I hope this helps ..

 

Context .... this is about Subaru PCV valves

Just like the stupid news..."Is this common household thing killing your children!? Tune in at 7 to find out!!!" I'm not sure you know what the word 'context' means.

Also, your link is broken...

I bought all of my LED's from Diodedynamics. Just select your vehicle and go from there. Just make sure to wait for a holiday to get 20% off.

RSB is < $100 for an OE thicker bar from a Crosstrek

CVT/Differential fluid: change all three. I was told by one dealer that they don't recommend it changing these fluids. I followed up with, "CAN you do it?" they said they don't actually have the ability to do it. A second dealer had no problem changing the CVT. I changed the front and rear diff fluids myself for cheap.

Brake fluid: often forgotten, but should be done every few years.

PCV Valve: Should have been changed by now

Firmware: We requested a free update to our Nav software and, because it had never been requested or updated before, we were given one gratis. RE: other firmware, I wouldn't do so unless you have a specific problem. I did so with our previous '08 Civic due to slipping/slow shifts and they improved at least 50%. It was $100 well spent to have everything updated.

about:blank

context helps when you post a random link...

Sounds like all no-nothing car owners to me...

To generalize as badly as you do, I consider all pickup drivers AH's. My empirical data tells me they're the only ones who close the gap when I'm trying to enter the highway (this is actually mostly true).

And it can't take anymore power either as seen by Cobb's struggle to release a tune for the 2.4T Legacy and Outback.

I haven't read that Cobb is having trouble with tuning due to the CVT. Any source for that?

I agree that you should be taking your car to the dealer.

I disagree that the described throttle behavior is normal. Subarus are known to be touchy with an exaggerated throttle curve, but they do NOT bog then, after letting up on the throttle, accelerate like crazy. That makes no sense! Sounds like a possible Throttle position sensor or even a CVT issue.

Two points re: your MPG:

1. The wording of your posts leads me to believe that you weren't always getting such bad gas mileage. So, what's changed, if anything (e.g., commute change to all city, lots of idling time/warming your car for extended periods of time before driving off, etc.)

2. What kind of change are we talking about? 15 --> 12? 25 --> 12? Big difference there and a major data point we're missing to make any sort or recommendation.

3. What are you seeing for boost during the strange throttle response behavior? Are you seeing full boost while at the lower than expected RPM that remains after you let off the throttle, with its resultant increase in RPM, or is it truly bogging down initially?

My last DD was an 8th gen Civic LX coupe. It was my wife’s - she got my Forester when we had kids and I got her Civic. Bleach. I hates that thing, but it was so cheap to own I couldn’t justify getting rid of it. That is, until a family member needed a second car AND I happened to find my 15 Leggy Premium for 15,750 four years ago!

Oh, speaking of fast and furious, I had a can cut right in front of me as I was merging in. The guy behind me and I had to brake hard not to get into an accident.

OP,

I never cast blame on others, but have been in situations where the dude in the lane I’m trying to merge into has been a total ass, either closing the gap I’m trying to get into quickly, not getting over if it’s prudent or some other form of “I own the road” behavior. At the very least these people aren’t being defensive.

Ideally traffic should leave a gap and maintain speed or get over. I hate when I maintain a steady acceleration and plan to get in behind a car only to find them braking and matching my speed, right in my blind spot! Luckily Subarus have very little blind spots; the BSW helps too

Again, not blaming you. Just a PSA for anyone who doesn’t get it and a bit of a vent/rant for those who do.

@GrnLantern1,

 

My mistake. I rarely look at any other Toyota products with exception of the Wife’s daily Scion TC anymore. That is a fine car I will admit. Problem is that any Toyota seat from 2012 regardless of brand/model(only exception is the LX models) hurt my back when driven more then ten miles or so.:cool:

 

Now the LS500 I have test driven and I can say that it is floaty. It’s on the same “Floaty” level as our Legacy’s in the corners. Have you looked at a Cadillac V series at all? I am just thinking the size and HP on cars other then a Toyota product. Or are you set on a bigger Lexus with four doors?

I don’t think “floaty” will be a problem for long after @GrnLantern1 gets his hands on it!

Need more info. Do you sit and listen to your radio with all of the lights on with the engine off or any other bad behaviors?

Have you had your ECM updated with new charging logic?

Have you checked what your parasitic draw is?

If you’re concerned I’d definitely buy a li-ion jump pack to keep in the trunk. I maintain my battery well and monitor it often, but still keep a jump pack in each car.

Do you have any accessories or mods hooked up? Like dash cam??radio stuff?

 

Unplug all and start there.

 

 

Also when not in use, do you keep the fob near the car?

None of those is my issue. I’m pretty battery savvy.

If you’re talking to the OP, it sounds as if he’s found the issue and needs guidance on what to do about his finding.

I’ll have to check this out. I’m having a similar issue with my 14 Forester, except it doesn’t actually show a drain with my DMM hooked up in series overnight. A real head scratcher!

At least with my FXT, the PCM etc seems to go to sleep within minutes, not hours

Since replacing the OEM battery with a larger NAPA The Legend battery I’ve been having issues. Every week or so the battery will be at half or lower charge. I haven’t checked I. A while and a few days ago the battery was at 11.95VDC, but still starting the car like it was at 100%! A testament to the battery I think.

Keep us updated on any other finding you come across!

What’s the rest of the story!? How far away from home were you when this happened? What did you end up using to replace the rad cap in the mean time?

I’ve never heard of a rad cap being ingested like that. That’s gnarly! I’d imagine there was a bit of a mess there, too.