grovlet

But I've already bought this car 2x+ times over:spin: Only 12K on the complete engine rebuild.... - just not ready to sell it yet Engine rebuild was after the 3rd Turbo Replacement - yeah never said I was bright:lol:

Latest updates: - 2 Front Calipers / Pads / Rotors - New Konis / Rear Trailing Arms / New Bushings Alignment - Borla Exhaust I keep thinking I smell something burning in my pocket - Smells like someones burning money:lol: I keep wondering why I throw money at car with 130K miles?

Hmm 245/45/18 - That sounds like the wrong tire size for the LGT.... Based on the Wheel / Tire Faq - you really are looking for a 245/35/18 tire... Also as noted the Offset is also critical to the mix here as well - but you'll see in the Faq recommendations for the best fitting offset options. LGT Wheel / Tire Faq

Good to hear - Borla being mounted up to my LGT this week... Went with it due the fact my Y-pipe over the axle rusted apart for the 2nd time this winter - and when I pulled off the factory mufflers - they were in bad shape too:eek:. Bodes well for hoping to get 3-4 years out of the Borla (That's my thoughts on when I'll ditch the car at this point...)

LOL - NOT a coilover that would compare to the handling from that setup:p:cool: - Cheap Coilovers (BC/ISC/Raceland) are poorly setup for compression and rebound dampening - along with odd spring rates and typically fall apart in within 10K miles from reports on LGT... Cheap Coilover Thread I would go Konis & Springs all day over ANY Cheap Coilover.... Hell they change the car completely even with STOCK springs and sway bars / bushings

Rallitek carries both Swift and King - My research led me to believe the Swift was the better option but the Kings have the exact drop OP is looking for and are also tried and true for the LGT.... RalliTek Springs LGT Partner either up with Konis / Sway Bars / new Bushings - you'll be very happy!

I agree - GS is the top tier option - it's one of the few items I felt represented the cost.... It's worth it for all the right reasons: - Quality - Fitment - Performance - Customer Service - (So I hear - never needed on mine) There are certainly others that work - but seems like no others hit all the categories

Glad to hear you found it -

Check the top mounting nuts for the front Struts - they tend to loosen and the strut rattles....

Definitely NEED a tune - but to really be even thinking of it a larger fuel pump is also a good plan at a minimum.... And your tuner will most likely request you get a Cobb Accessport and electronic boost controller module (EBC) You can certainly get away with stock injectors (Max/myself/others have proven it) - but to get full on power I hear they are also a good addition:p I would also expect to deal with an I/C issue as well - stock may hold up for little while - but at any increased boost - it becomes prone to bend tabs and leak over time..... Now your into a GrimSpeed top mount.... YES = worth every penny:wub: It's a good fit for the car but certainly not just a drop in and go option...

I used Amsoil Signature Transmission fluid for both my 98 and 05 LGTs - In the 98 it actually helped smooth out shifts .... I would also expect that a dedicated Transmission Fluid is a better option: Amsoil Signature Transmission Fluid

I actually have mine right on the dash - just Velcro in place - works just fine....

Hey - just realized 10 1/2 years.... Is it normal for the 10 year club members to have 2x the cost of the car into rebuilds/upgrades? Still going strong now after the new shortblock and more upgrades @ 120K:p And I would agree something about these cars makes you want to keep them:cool:

PSA - As noted already check the basics first doing anything drastic: Double Check Belt (Is it bad - or just needs a little bit of tension added?) O-Ring Replacement Here's .pdf related to the issue from a member here! I just had this issue and simply needed to tighten the belt tension:p DIY Power Steering Pump Fluid Flush and Refill Walk-through Rev2 8-20-2014.pdf

Yeah - not really a great option..... Palmer Motorsports is much cheaper - if you must have a "Membership". Palmer MotorSport - Membership But Palmer offers "Arrive and Drive" - option that a caters towards enthusiasts who want to test the waters (For as little as $400): Palmer MotorSports - Arrive and Drive

Along with new oil system parts - lines / cooler.... And by the looks of that turbine wheel - I wouldn't bother..... There is ZERO doubt you've sent debris throughout the oil system - and therefore the bad news #YNNSB# I replaced my turbo 2x over - 1st replacement went 20K - #2 = 10K After #2 - New ShortBlock (and New VF52) = Turbo went in 800 miles - replaced that with hope - 750 miles later = blown and took out new ShortBlock:mad: Finally replaced heads and 2nd new ShortBlock + another VF52:eek: Turned out the heads were the issue all along = must have had a blocked oil passage from one of the blown turbos But read the sticky - you're pretty much guaranteed to at least need a ShortBlock - and maybe heads = total rebuild in order:eek: And as noted - I thought the same as most early on = ahh can't be true - but yup - I'll join the crowd now and agree - blown turbos in this car are bad news for the engine and heads

I would try Osram Laser +130% - they are a good option:cool:

FYI - The new Osram Laser +130% are very close to the older Osram 64217 Offroads in light output..... I just swapped the Lasers in for the older Offroads and not really much difference.... I also have the Philips XV 130% in my S4 - they are nice and bright too - but hard to directly compare as the S4 is HID..... But I assume they would be another good option as mentioned:)

I'm reviewing my lighting options - already had Osram Offroad 55W lows and HIR1 Highs (Fogs are still factory bulbs) * Highs = Highs are still great - highly recommended Since I also have an Audi S4 running Xtreme 130+ D3S HIDs - the Osrams are looking a little dull and yellow... I ordered the newer Osram Night Breaker Laser +130% If that doesn't do it - I may try LED: a) HID Concepts Fanless H7 (5500K) - I would think allowing the dust caps to be used.... b) Ediors 6000K LED - same as noted above

I had thought they updated their site recently (within the last 6 months) - so I would expect so..... http://www.rrevsports.com/

Or buy a different vendor's bracket: SubiMods.com Hella Bracket JNA Performance.com Hella Bracket Maybe one of those would work better?

Here's the kit I have, but due to the bottom curve of the Cubby the suction cup rarely stays mounted. I've been able to remove the rubber cubby bottom and it sticks a little better, but still not 100%. I was thinking that if there was a flat mount that would slide into the bottom of the cubby it would provide a better surface for the suction cup. I was also thinking it could have a non smooth surface to it that would allow the suction cup to create more suction:icon_ques And of course this would allow almost any suction cup mount available to be placed into the cubby - Which would just mean aligning to the proper suction mount depending on device vs. multiple designs. http://www.xm-radio-satellite.com/images/products/detail/SUPV1.jpg

I'm still looking for a good way to maintain a suction cup mount for my Sirius in the Cubby.... So if you figure out the phone mount maybe a more generic version that could handle a suction cup mount for almost any device? (Phone/Sirius/Small GPS)

That's the POSSTI Edition - "Imitation Silver" - It's for "Ballers" only and costs "Big Bucks":lol: Basically if you have to ask you can't afford it:p

Holy Cow - Just realized mine are two years old - but yeah they still make them: Enkei EV5 - TireRack.com