SeeeeeYa

Absolutely, positively, NOT. The AEM CAI requires a distinctly different MAF calibration. Using the Stock Intake map with the AEM CAI (or most any other intake for that matter) can/will result in running lean enough to damage your engine.

I guess I'm confused... as you requested, via email, I returned an email with the instructions attached. You also emailed me later and quoted that very email, saying you hadn't seen this thread... However, I have never received a PM from you... only that email, which is the medium through which the instructions must be transferred. I wondered how you came by my email address since I hadn't given it to you. Either this is a BIG misunderstanding, or someone is playing with your emails.

I didn't want to say it. But, considering I am running that on 93.....

An engine's combustion doesn't know or care about your intercooler. Also, the "general" rules are morphed slideways in consideration of ineffective and ill-managed tuning, and do not reflect the science. People generally don't want to be responsible so they give people a path even a dummy won't screw up. Those people shouldn't be tuning in the first place, "pro" or not. Here is a good discussion... listen to Rifts. Really. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=673369&highlight=leanest+afr Listen carefully to post #23, and this: "Remember.. timing is just a crutch for poor VE." Once you get the balls to try leaner instead of being intimidated by misinformation, and see how much better your car runs, you understand. Again, don't consider a timing NUMBER some kind of goal... timing is what you adjust to get all the rest working best, and knock-free.

Yes. Set your boost and AFR, then, as you say, work the timing back slowly and don't worry so much what the precise values end up being as long as you are knock-free. A good tune will be best with AFRs nearer mid-11s, 10s are pig-rich and causes issues, not solves them.

Then just deal with the knock. Your timing is the catalyst that makes it all work, not a finite parameter like AFR or boost, for example. The TMIC must have been a positive change in response, and lets the boost hit harder, quicker.

You can't go too wrong with the factory AVCS settings. That said, with your new turbo, you can think about adding in some AVCS higher up once everything else is steady. The factory AVCS reflects the restrictions of the OEM turbo's hotside.

bmx, I'd think you could easily run 20-22 psi and maintain 19-20 up top. A properly configured fuel table and 11.4 AFRs are more correct than 10.x... rich makes knock, too. Lean then adjust timing. Also, don't forget AVCS affects knock, too. Set your boost, get the AFRs right, AVCS right, and once knock is eliminated timing is what it is. An AFR meter on the column is your friend. Stock plugs for a DD is my choice.

Not exactly. While, of course, the ECU decides, the decisions are clear-cut. This explains the details: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html

This means to me... You don't log. You don't ever drive in boost. Your tune is anemic. Because, one way or another, once in a while, knock simply happens. Knock sums are a part of everyday life. Variations in fuels, temperatures, and loads are a part of life. A good tune, and frequent review of logs, will occasionally populate a cell here and there in the FKL table with minor numbers, which when checked another time will be gone. But, if you check frequently and NEVER see knock... you may as well have a Honda. I say this so others don't get the idea that TOTAL elimination of occasional knock means you have a perfect tune, and that seeing knock with low numbers means you have a bad tune. The best tunes can knock... for a variety of reasons. Shift knock. Doing stupid stuff with your throttle. Driving along at 70 mph and down-shifting then mashing the pedal, for example. Failing to completely warm the car up... not just having the coolant reach thermostat-opening, and hammering it. Ripping up a steep incline on a wicked cold day. Stuff. Knock happens. Know why. Otherwise how will you be able to analyze it and know the difference between destructive knock and normal, and apply appropriate corrective measures, whether it is correcting your own behavior or the tune.

Pardon my delay in response, my computers have been an issue. I short, yes, I definitely like my PLX SM-AFR WBO2 as well as their SM-DM5 AFR meter that I rely on daily. Neither have posed a problem, and their results can be relied on absolutely.

As always, if you can make a BP TMIC Mod that works as well, but is cheaper, easier to make, and more aesthetically appealing... everyone would welcome it. It is called progress. The key is... making it, providing photos and details. Talk doesn't count too much, unfortunately, or ideas long since exposed that address improvements in these areas would have long been implemented. Good luck with your ideas.

One of the members here had similar thoughts... that the U channel was so firmly gripping the seam that the bolts seemed unnecessary, and overkill. Somewhere during one of his track days he found out that the bolts are not over kill after all... when his un-bolted U-ch fell off mid-session. He got a new U-channel piece and bolted everything down as designed. He has never had an issue since. And JB Weld is a major reason this Mod was originated. It is fundamentally unreliable... at least with regard to the subject TMIC. There are prettier ways, I'm sure, but the bolt FUNCTION is essential for the security of the Mod. Think about it. The OEM TMIC is a collection of pieces poorly clamped together. From the beginning they not only alternately expand and contract, thus change shape, like most things do, the difference with the TMIC is, the expansion doesn't always result in a 100% contraction... parts begin to separate. No press-fit solution is ever going to be as secure as a press-fit solution THAT IS BOLTED to another assembly that is press-fit and pulling from the other side. There is a BIG difference between BulletProof, and almost.

I do, and I'm sure others do as well. Why?

You guys are, in a word, amazing. You also continue to make this into the project I always wanted it to be, but just didn't know how. No one should have to live with the fear their car will fail and leave them stranded, even stock. No one should have to be between a rock and a hard place over no more than a simple tune. Solved.

With joop's additional pictures this mod's major trauma, cutting the sides of the U-channel, has been eliminated. Wish I'd known that. Bet my wife does, too. The aluminum bits in the basement from my saw will be there forEVER! You cannot beat better, cheaper, AND easier.

The BulletProof TMIC Mod has now become not only cheap to buy, it is easy to make as well. Seemingly made just for this project, Dremel recently announced a product I wish had been there when I was making mine. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Dremel+Saw-Max%E2%84%A2&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=dremel%20saw&utm_campaign=SawMax%20Branded

Thank you for the clarification. I should have know that anyone who could do what you've done would attend to that. I wasn't sure and wanted to comment so future readers would pay attention there. I had to actually pinch my WRX's tabs as they had almost spread to failure. It is amazing how soft the aluminum is, and more amazing that Subaru has never done anything to reinforce the seams... given the failure rates even unmodified cars suffer. Once again, although with a bigger grin now, excellent work!

I see (said this blind man ) Your avatar decreased the blood supply to my eyes... Here are my comments, taken from instructions:

Mod prep requires the tabs to be pre-tightened using Vice Grips. Otherwise the rails may not fit. If the TMIC is new and unaffected, or after preconditioning, the rails fit tightly onto the seam... tight enough that there are instructions for getting them to seat properly. Sending PM...

Excellent. Simpler, easier, and cheaper than my conservative design. My only comment would be to watch the interface of the rail and bolt at the BPV recirc hose. After a while on the WRX the contact from the original design, somewhat like yours is now, showed the recirc hose was being abraded. Feedback and my own experience caused me to change to the updated design specs. Lack of space is why I swept the channel back, used smallest possible "bolt" diameter and, after flattening the bolt there, covered it with shrink tubing. Some vehicles have more, some less space. All are close.

Unfortunately for the NastySock community, that thread was deleted, but there are others the same mods shuffled to various places if you look for them. Vendors, not the membership, are most important there, unlike here on LegacyGT(dot)com. "Clever" humor... but it's the picture that is relevant here, mostly. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3710924&postcount=499 Thank SSpeed for this, and wish him a speedy recovery. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3707462&postcount=266 Saul_Good Sometimes, pudding takes longer to make than others. My thanks to everyone who has positively contributed to the BulletProof TMIC Mod and this thread. Your efforts have influenced not only the design, they have also paved the way for others to follow. I'm working on making the data for this more accessible, but as always since the beginning, anyone who wants the plans can have them for free. PM me meantime.

A BP TMIC Mod Kit built to spec has both sides trimmed, but to different lengths. They are not equal. The one on the plastic side is, as you noted, trimmed so that the U-ch sits fully onto the seam. The IC side is trimmed to allow airflow to the entire core. No harm will come from leaving it longer, but it will remove a small percentage of efficiency. Good work, 05COLEGGT!. Variations here and there by those who built their own, or modified pre-made Kits, contributed to the design. Frankly, given the work it takes to shorten a side, if leaving one side at "stock" length gets your TMIC reinforced I consider that a definite WIN. The plans are available to anyone who wants them. It works beyond ANY criticism, as Saul_Good has proven. No TMIC, regardless of boost has or will fail once Modded properly. There will always be detractors no matter the subject, but also as always, Time Will Tell. This mod works. Period. That said: Maybe this isn't the place, but it's here... I don't know what has happened to LegacyGT.com relative to comportment. It isn't the website I joined or was once proud to reference as an example of an intelligent, civil contrast to NastySocks. Thankfully, although I'm sure it will also devolve into the slums, IWSTI.com moderators would have removed the post by W R and admonished others to stay on topic. Such is life.

Not possible.

Actually, it is even easier than this... all you need is to remove the mid-pipe. With the mid-pipe removed I used a long piece of rebar and a hammer and broke the cat out of there from the bottom end, with the downpipe on the car. The downpipe cat is ceramic and as hogmeat says, comes out easily. The whole thing won't take long doing it this way. I suggest you also monitor your tune after you do this, things will change and you may overboost, for example. Don't do the up-pipe, is my advice. I did, and have the scars. It is not only a bitch to remove (along with all the cat-retention hardware), since it is metallic, but more importantly a failure to be perfect can cost you a turbo or an engine. Either get a factory catless up-pipe or AM... but do not gut the stocker.