SeeeeeYa

L C Tables? http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=8015

My STi was wingless. I have a 2014 FXT now. That's how I can comment about their intercoolers. At 17+ psi stock I'll be keeping an eye on my endtanks. The GS is useless (sorry GS), but an OEM turbo shield with a blanket under it is the best for keeping turbo heat where it belongs, and away from where it doesn't.

You're going in the right direction. Add a turbo blanket and your underhood temps will be about as you can expect, and far better than normal. Your/a BP Modded OEM TMIC will more than suit your needs. And, yes, my '11 WRX that spawned the idea for the BP Mod had a VF52 and had 300-ish whp. The Perrin I went to on my '05 LGT was a constrictive heatsink that I fought with from the beginning. I got it because I listened to someone selling it, and I was too naïve to know the difference until too late. Of course, at that time my OEM TMIC was JB Welded and wired so I also didn't like its appearance. But I'd have avoided all the issues I had with the Perrin if I'd come up with the BP Mod earlier. Live and learn. Also, consider the JDM FA20DIT iterations such as come in the 2014 USDM Forester XT... their OEM TMICs have the same core and come STOCK with 300 horsepower. Every part of that engine has been revised and brought into line with the future, yet the TMIC's core is identical to the ones we are discussing here. The reason why is it is already as good as it gets - for a daily driver - and simply cannot be improved.

As said, actual numbers are scarce to none. However, multiple BP Modded TMICs are successfully supporting larger turbos such as the VF52, one in particular a regular on the race track. Looking for maximum horsepower is different from looking for the most efficient TMIC that also gets driven daily. While some inferior imitators offer lower internal resistance at the expense of cooling, thus an apparent increase in power, the usual end result is horsepower lost to heat. The slight increase in internal resistance of the OEM TMIC is due to it's excellent design for removing heat, and thus providing a cooler more powerful intake charge.

SS wire would also work, but it would not be as secure as BarManBean's kit. It would also not be as aesthetically appealing. A pipe clamp like that would be, well, very Unattractive as well as less effective. However, in a pinch when forced to get r dun, one does what one must. Seeing how the available kit can be at your door within hours if need be, it would have to be one special occasion. Considering the lead time on ordering a pipe clamp I doubt this is one of those.

The TMIC has redesigned endtanks but the core is (apparently) the same. The input side has been recast to fit the new charge pipe. The output has also been recast but still connects to the throttle body via flexible pipe like before. Because the TMIC is now connected to its input and output via flexible connections it is free of the leveraging forces the others suffer from being bolted to the turbo. Now only boost provides any influence, and I suspect the new IC to tolerate considerably more than the 15 psi I've seen. The JDM version is the same except for tuning and has a much higher output. However, in any worst case scenario the standard BP Mod will still end any issue. With the engine cover off it is clear Subaru has produced the most refined powerplant in their history. There is a new, patented by Subaru, mechanical AOS that is prominently visible. I'm crossing my fingers it solves the DIT's reputation for nasty valve deposits.

Not likely. The 2.0 DIT shares virtually nothing with any other engine. The beefed up CVT and it's capabilities are also cutting edge and unlike earlier examples of the transmission. The 4th gen LGT is a dynosaur now... technology-wise. Even the 5th gen LGT is gone for 2013, replaced with an appearance package. The JDM LGT, however, is equipped with the 2.0 DIT powertrain that's in my 2014 FXT, which by all accounts will be the choice for future versions of USDM performance models. Time will tell whether tuning and upgrades like the BP Mod will be applicable then. A drive in one of these 2014 FXTs will provide the reason why. It has to be experienced to be believed.

Yes, sir, and I love it. I'm going to take the engine cover off today and see if the TMIC is what it appears... the exact same one I've grown to know so well since my 05 LGT. Edit: Same core, different endtanks. All flexible couplings, no mechanical leveraging forces. Frankly, if I'm going to have an intercooler, I'd prefer it over the design of the one on the STi. This is, still, simply the best DD TMIC there is. Obviously, Subaru thinks the same way. This new Forester is full of advancement, some never provided the USDM version of a product before. The redesign is more than skin deep, and I'm sure if there were a better intercooler it would have been included, too. Inspection of available JDM information shows clearly this entire twin-scroll equipped powertrain is identical to the one they get. This is my ninth Subaru in 21 years of owning them exclusively. It is the most sophisticated drive I have ever experienced. If what's here is any indication, future Subaru models are going to be amazing.

Hmmm... let's see. WRX was traded for an 11 STi two years ago. Did everything I had in mind for the STi, mod-wise, and it was time to move on. I still have a turbo Suby , and it's a twin scroll. Even has a stock boost "gauge" in the display options. Time for a change. My timeframes are more compressed than most here, I can't dilly dally. This ride allows me to enjoy a wider embrace of the driving experience, instead of focusing on the war with time and the pavement. Still a Boxer, with softer gloves.

I haven't taken the engine cover off yet, only had it two days now, but it's pretty obvious I'm back in the boat with all those with this thread's subject TMIC. Good thing I know a fix if I ever need one.

The BulletProof TMIC Mod is now well into its third year, and has become part of the Subaru vocabulary. No TMIC has failed with it installed. It is successfully serving owners with a variety of cars, engine modifications, turbos, and driving environments. This mod would not have come this far without legacygt.com, nor this well without BarManBean. But everyone who has made one, installed one, helped along the way with threads, pictures, ideas or documentation... you are the ones who made it the success it is.

In reference to the internal pressure drops of intercoolers... IF the physical sizes of the intercoolers being compared are fairly close, the one with the lower pressure drop will be an inferior heat exchanger. That is, it will not cool the charge air as well as the one with more internal "loss." That is because, compared to the input pressure the output pressure drops because the output air is cooler, thus has less pressure.. The only way to get equal or better cooling AND less pressure drop is by making a good intercooler BIGGER in size. Both the Perrin and AVO intercoolers, and any others that mimic them, are inferior heat exchangers than the BP Modded TMIC because of this fact of physics. Those aftermarket examples' fitment and heatsoak issues only add insult to injury. That is why the BP Modded OEM "plastic" TMIC defies conventional logic. It is an excellent heat exchanger, it suffers far less from heatsoak than any other one, and the "pressure drop" is more an indication of its efficiency than any perceived restriction in power. It is also why those currently using it on the track with upgraded turbos and tunes are doing so well. Bench racers, not so much.

I've posted this more than once in response to the same situation... Unless your intercooler has actually FAILED, that is, rendered your car inoperable, you can use vice grips to pinch the seams back together and then install the BP Mod when you have it perfect again. When the OEM TMIC actually fails it blows out the rubber O-ring that is in the seam. THEN it is fubared. But if it is only seeping some oil, or is showing visible stretching of the clamps and is obviously spreading apart, you can save it. THAT IS THE CONDITION that my new 11 WRX was in when I parked it until I found a solution... the BulletProof TMIC Mod is the result. Clear? It probably suits everyone to mod a pristine TMIC. I doubt many can source a used one in perfect condition, but if you can, fine. But to eliminate all the intercoolers that show signs of leakage from oil seepage, or that have spreading tabs, would eliminate a lot of people unnecessarily. One thing for sure, any signs your TMIC is leaking or about to leak is a warning you better heed. If you intelligently put your seam tabs back tight, and install a BP Mod properly, your intercooler is NOT EVER going to fail whether the intercooler starts out brand new or restored. Period. In fact, from the beginning, a significant number of people who were among the first to BP Mod their cars did so on itercoolers with just this condition. There are individual threads on it.

Files can now be downloaded with the link in the first post. However, anyone at anytime can also PM me if that ever fails to work for them.

You're right it doesn't. Apparently there were some changes we didn't know about/implement, but they are being worked on. Meanwhile, anyone wanting the files send me a PM with your email address and I'll get them to you asap.

That sounds like a great product that I would seriously debate owning. A lot fancier than a mere cool can and dry ice, and a lot easier to maintain.

FWIW, anyone who doesn't understand the importance of fuel temperature has never been involved in competitive motorsports. It's simple: More heat in fuel, less power. Less heat in fuel, more power. ATBE.

It's not DC?

Thank you! It is feedback like this that is what it's all about. The thermal influences you mention doubtlessly play a part. Combined with the stresses introduced by boost from inside, and stresses from the way it is mounted on the outside, the OEM TMIC is a problem waiting to happen. Thankfully, it is now a thing of the past once it is BP Modded. Although they're too busy using their BP Modded cars to post their successes, I'm in contact with multiple users who regularly both road race their cars as well as autocross at higher boost levels. Years later now they are problem-free, despite upgraded turbos and tunes. Don't let anyone kid you, the BP Modded OEM TMIC is a great TMIC.

It was mine looking like that that prompted me to create the BP Mod. Unless the rubber seal is blown out and it isn't holding boost whatsoever you can use vice grips and carefully recrimp that seam to original. THEN, install the BP Mod from BarManBean. After that you can forget it.

Short and complete. Explains the little sealed boxes.

19 amps is 19 amps, however it's driven.

Looking at this, I am amazed... one, it is a sealed box. If that weren't enough, and I can't see details well enough to be specific, there is relatively no heatsink! As Scooby2.5, and others, know, the addition of the right heatsink can magnify current handling immensely. It would be easy, and would provide some insight into whether a larger heatsink would help, to monitor the interior temps of the FPCM under varying fuel demands. If it doesn't get hot it is probably OK. But if the power devices show a rapid and significant heat rise at maximum load then a large®, exposed, heatsink will/should make the circuit much more reliable. If there is anything semiconductors cannot tolerate, it is runaway heat. However, given the complete list of Scooby2.5's mods being done, this would more apply to use with pumps drawing very high current... that is, more than 15 amps. Some facts here seem nuts to me... like little fuel pumps that suck nearly 20 amps... through wiring any electrician would laugh at, connected by a variety of press-fit connectors, sitting in a fuel tank. Do not run out of fuel.

This should help: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/ecu-tuning-performance-electronics/247335-looking-information-how-analyze-my-ap-datalogs.html

The capacitor, along with the toroidal coil, is a filter. Neither will change the voltage like you want... although the coil is current limiting due to its wire sizes. Then again, so is every wire. mweiner is correct: past the point of the OEM circuit's original envelope there are only two routes to more current to the FP. One is elimination of circuit resistance(s). The other is a complete NEW solution. Given that replacement pump current requirements significantly exceeds OEM capacity, no solution using them will offer long-term reliability without a NEW FPC System... "long-term" meaning OEM-like. Otherwise, Scooby2.5's thorough revisions provide the best solution.