SeeeeeYa

I would feel deaf and blind without my AP. I log every mile I drive, and I review them when I'm done for the day. Takes only minutes. Over the years my AP has gone from a Pouch Potatoe in the glove compartment to a full time resident on my dash. A lot of time has been spent determining its best location... and its mounting. With it I keep track of, and record, everything important going on. With it always in view and near at hand I can select my choices as safely and easily as using the radio. Cobb's current crop of OTS tunes are far superior to those of earlier times, for sure. You just have to keep on top of it, nevertheless.

15

A new downpipe is the one mandatory part before the tune. Add the intake, but understand each one needs tuned to the car it's on. Intakes have other considerations as well that should be fully understood before chosing one. That said, for the most reliable possible, only the downpipe is needed... and then the tune. If you're willing to ride herd on what an intake introduces, which for optimum reliability should be a part of any driver,s responsibility anyway, you can minimize the negatives an intake brings. Either case requirs monitoring and logging your car. Regularly. But understand... once you change that downpipe and flash the ECU, you've crossed a line. You don't want to be caught with your pants down over that line, and the best way to do that is to always ensure your car's performance is either KNOCK FREE, or within established boundaries. If you do not keep on top of your tune by logging and analysis you are betting you can get away without it... betting a motor. IMO, that downpipe and that super tune should have come on the car new.

Then get ready to spend a BUNCH of money. Once the downpipe has been replaced and the car Properly Tuned, the bulk of any Stg2 has been achieved. From there the returns get progressively lower, and the costs get progressively higher. If you have the time and money, compile a list of every option anyone has ever used for a Stg2 setup. Decide which ones you want. Since you are in the "Tuning" forum, and the Street Tuner/Access Tuner Race Discussion Thread, can it be assumed you will be tuning these things yourself? I hope so. Because after that almost plug-n-play Stg2 step tuning the bits to maintain that "reliability" you also want becomes paramount... and if you have others do it, very expensive. In the end, regardless of what you do with it, there will be less than 10% difference between your well implemented but basic Stg2 and any other one regardless of how many parts you throw at it. Ethanol will make more power, but it will cost you fuel upgrades and tuning... at a minimum. Reliable. That's the kicker. A Stage2 car done properly is arguably at the edge of that mythical slope. Beyond that point "built motor" waits.

While the condition obviously exists in LGTs, it is also obvious it is nowhere near as much a problem as it is for STis. Plus, what problems LGTs do have, as you say, is confused by other issues... and everything gets put into one basket. Infamous may also have solutions of his own, included in his tune, that comes from his experience with these cars, and an Infamous tune a relatively inexpensive route to a solution. But if you do get to play with one with an obvious studdering issue, your input would be invaluable and further refine the information for the LGT platforms. Meanwhile, there is no harm nor any potential introduction of negatives if people with conditions they term studdering install the fuel line and modify their LC table. So far, although studder, specifically, has not shown an impact like the STi crowd, certain other benefits have been noted.

You know, I said much the same for years. I have read about the studder issue from when I had my 05 LGT, the 11 WRX, and especially including this 11 STi... and was quietly glad I didn't know what anyone was talking about. From my perspective I didn't have any such issue. Then last December I happened across the fuel line chatter. The explanation in the big RomRaider thread made it clear there was, in fact, a physical event going on inside the fuel system. No matter how great my car worked changed the fact I had the same fuel system. I must, therefore, be being affected even if I couldn't see it. I had no idea what would happen differently, but I had to find out. My results are posted in a number of threads now. To me they are significant, almost too good to be true. But I admit that what I find so great, a lot of people would neither see, nor experience the results I find so transforming. It is a case of, seek and you will find... with the devil in the details.

Thank you. Thank you. And the "stutter problem" has nothing to do with the pump either, BTW.

From rtbrjason's post here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4220022&postcount=119 It was his input that modified the "zeroed-out" advice earlier posts advocated, in my own tune. His input is thorough, the result of good work and intelligent tuning. Most of the posts here, in the LegaciyGT forums, chronicle frustration, and the belief they're "different" somehow. rtbrjason hints this isn't totally true. rlefevre states:http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4216619&postcount=109 Another hint. IMO it will work even better with his LC tables modified appropriately. Time will tell.

To be honest, to some degree I am humoring your position. If you have read the various threads, and the results of those responding, it should become clear that there is a fact established; the fuel line mod works. Period. This is not my mod. I am merely vocal about my personal success and offer my own results so others can decide for themselves their own course of action. If it is not clear to you then by all means continue to pursue your own research. Meanwhile the overwhelmingly positive results predominate.

You are aware of the other active threads about this, right? Obviously, manual transmissioned cars have a greater sense of engine performance because they have a direct connection from the engine to the wheels. And just as obviously, the automatic transmissioned cars have a slushy connection. But. Their fuel systems are identical. Consider.

This thread may be of interest to anyone frustrated by low-load knock: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stutter-studder-hesitation-etc-198070.html

On my car, which has a HomeLink Mirror, one just pushes a button to turn the auto/dim feature on/off. If yours doesn't have this, and it is important enough for your nighttime driving safety, you could install a HomeLink Mirror. They are available from Subaru and, I believe, are plug-and-play. Some cars require an adaptor mounting kit, also available from Subaru.

FWIW, my LGT had two reasons for these "noises," one was the common one that thunks. But there was one that SNAPPED... that one turned out to be a CV joint that had fractured half-way through. It was revealed during a 0-60 one day when it finalliy finished breaking and began flopping uselessly. Most people probably don't break their CV joints, however, and have noises from the suspension due to the common reasons... RUBBER SUSPENSION PARTS. Instead of spending a lifetime looking for The Culprit, people should spend a little time and money upgrading their rubber suspension components... which are many. The older the car and the more it has been used, the more the NOISE will evidence itself... because the rubber parts are degraded. You are not going to find a single culprit. ALL the rubber suspension components contribute to the issue, just some more than others. Ben Franklin said, "light a candle, instead of cursing the darkness." Get under your cars, and work. Your car will be in the crusher before you find any magic solutions in a forum thread.

How about posting a good screenshot of your Primary Ignition table. How about det cans, to help you sort out false vs real knock. Or a knock light. And why, after all this time on these forums, do you have any vacuum line capable of "popping off?? That is something that should have been addressed years ago.... Also, post that LV that shows pulled timing ONLY in the 0.8-1.2 load area. Provide your mods, if any, and tune data, etc. You have data scattered everywhere, maybe a new thread WOULD be a good idea. Nothing in your post provides anything that can help you.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-silencer-removal-100478.html?p=4132989

With the engine running, my 11 STi measures 13.89v at the B+ wire to the FPCM. It goes up slightly when idle is minimum. Wires are properly sized per circuit. The FPCM itself is not visably a PCB, it is a smallish metal box. At higher levels of power output I see 93% IDC during the summer. Not too bad. But in colder weather 100% IDC aren't uncommon. Oddly, but thankfully, even the rare 105-6% IDC in colder temps haven't caused my AFRs to change. The pumps performance, therefore, must be adequate (even if the injectors are marginal). I use 93 E10. This thread is of fundamental importance to the forum's platform, and should be stickied. It may not have directly impacted my STi, but it gave me the same directions that will help others correct an important flaw that may mean all the difference.

Having seen your video it is clear your BPV is connected correctly. The confusion is over the generic use of the labeling of the T... YOU have a T there, but it functionally still connects (via the other side of the T) to the nipple referenced in the BP Mod instructions. So instead of just the one line from the BPV needing clamped/secured, you have at least three there. The little hose that goes from that T you have and the Intake Manifold nipple still needs clamped/glued. My 11 WRX did not have that T, the BPV line went singularly to the IM nipple. My STi is different. My 05 Legacy GT was different. But they all still work the same, logically. To my knowledge there is no sensible hose routing information, anywhere. Even Subaru manuals only provide disjointed concepts, but no overall, visually useable, hose routing. You have to create your own, either put in on paper or pictures or have it secure in your mind. I posted the link to the boost control circuitry to give a general idea, for even that is simplified and doesn't factually depict the actual circuitry in all cars. If you investigate your boost control, as well as other hoses, you will find you have other Ts as well. It would be of large value to define where the small line goes from the T you have videoed... instead of just saying it goes into the engine somewhere. The problems people encounter are due to a (stupid) engineering failure by Subaru to provide barbed connectors for their vacuum/BOOST hoses. Vacuum is no problem, of course. But once the hoses are moved, age changes the rubber, or boost in excess of stock is applied to these hoses they begin to fail by blowing off. In most cases when they blow off it only causes inconvenience... but if your Fuel Pressure Sense Hose blows off you will probably need a new motor. There are a bunch of hoses, all need secured. Super-glueing and zip-ties are better than nothing. Super glue and a corbin clamp are ideal. Your car, your fixes. FWIW, Subaru implements their boost control in a variety of visually different configurations. However, they all work the same, and that Cobb article explains the logic. It is the mark of a thorough and responsible owner/modder to become familiar with ALL the hoses and components on their car, and not treat a single one as a "mystery" part that goes "somewhere." Otherwise, someday, you or someone else will be looking for the facts when dictated by problems, as opposed to foreseeing those problems and eliminating them preemptively. Pardon my introduction of uncertainty, but it highlights an issue as yet without resolution.

Yes. See here: http://www.cobbtuning.com/Technical-Articles-s/70674.htm Or, of course, you have traced the hose incorrectly... that is, you are wrong.

Here is a thread that provides what you need.

^^ This. FULLY-seated rails, only, offer maximum strengthening of the seams. This mod is about making the TMIC secure, not making a zip tie look good.

Delusions are free to everyone.

Important EDIT in first post!

!!

Fish, your post give me hope. My IAM has NEVER dropped, and if it did I would need medication. I log almost everything, and on the road to my present state of never seeing knock of any kind I've occasionally encountered a 1.4 this or a x.x that... but NEVER have I EVER seen a reduced IAM in more than six years of tuning. I do not believe in "false knock." Each and every knock event I could pinpoint the "why" after analyzing my tune and my logs. There is no single cell in my timing map that has not been addressed. It has taken years. So when you post this, and you are not concurrently posting about increased oil use, I take that as encouragement that my paranoia about knock is keeping at bay the dreaded thought I have made a fatal mistake in the course of my tuning. So, if you can "get away" with this scenario... I figure I'm still good. But it still makes me cringe. I want to say, "fix it!"