HAMMER DOWN

Original start also with only 20+k more on it

Just one of ea. I'm almost 3/4 the way there:cool:

I will just keep using what been working for almost 290k:cool:vvv

Put over 6600 miles on it in the last 2 mos. It's over 286k now, and still running strong.

For over 250k, 15k OCI, over 100 of runs down a drag strip & towing up to it's own weight.. I'll say the "Right" 0W-30 oils & filters work just fine:rolleyes:.

I have a 05 STi 6MT. I used the 05 lockout cable that came with the 6MT. Have you tried to reroute, &, or adjust(on the MT) the cable for it to work. The same with the longer cable.

Short answer, after installing it, the car idle fine, ran ok up to around 3k, if you pressed the throttle slowly, but the rpm's fell on it face around 4k. If you go WOT, it will lean out & almost stall out. Little more detail, I get 14.2v-14.5v output from the alternator. 13.8v-14v at the FP. Put the FPC in between the Alt & FP. Last 2 Email with then explains it all; The returned FuelPro was received this morning and tested this afternoon. The unit is functioning fine and no issue was found with it. I asked him to get a video off of the scope for you. The video is in two parts, first is the pwm input and second the PWM output on a fuel pump with max. 14 Amps draw. Here is the link to the video on dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vinudnlitfsurb/20150511_161158.mp4?dl=0 Please let me know if you have further questions. Best regards, DCCDPRO INC. Reply; That's not good. Just means I wasted more of my money, time & your time. All I know that it didn't work in my car. With over 14v supply & a 5v ECU signal. Pump voltage at start up is almost 11v. Just to shortly drop to 2.6 & max out at only 2.85v. Dumb question, did you checkout voltage to the pump? Whatever, if you say it's good. Return it & I will reinstall it again. And if it don't work, I guess I just have a $200 paper weight. Good day, End FYI, they was very helpful to answer all questions & exchanged ideas to work out my issues with their FPC. But the end of the day it didn't work. On the bright side, I been running their ProDCCD controller for 8.5yrs. & over 200k miles with no issue. It's an awesome controller.

^^^ I tried it & did work. Send it back & they checked it out, it fine. Reinstalled it again & still didn't work. Thru it in a box of used parts & been running my DeatschWerks Fuel Pump - DW65c at 100% duty cycle for over a year/40K miles, with no issues. Maybe you have better luck.

This reminds me of that old saying, "You can pay a little now or whole lot more later."

+ 100 Rolled over 280k a few days ago. One of the most reliable cars I've owned:wub:

+100 . I give Mike @ Tuning Alliance, Amsoil & my maintenance OCD. The reason I can still push my 10yr. old LGT, 18.5 psi of boost & hit 7300 red line multiple times a day. With the mileage I have on it.

Love you story Max, but be careful you don"t end up like this guy. Davis, 42, has been sentenced to 28 in months in jail for reckless driving http://www.carbuzz.com/news/2015/11/7/Driving-192-MPH-On-Public-Roads-Got-This-Man-A-Major-Prison-Sentence-7730272/ I'm no saint, I just don't admit or take videos of my daily drives .

I had no clearance issues. The closes clearance I have, is less then 1/4" between my 3'"mid-pipe resonator on my Indivia Q300 exhaust. They have had never hit.

FYI, my DSS Drive shaft is still working perfectly with over 200k on it.

Byron sent me to Mike at Tuning Alliance. I was running Cobb Stage I tune up to 2011 (about 140k & 22mpg). Went stage II & Tuning Alliance maps ever sense. With over 275k now on the car. It never fails the put a smile on my face when I drive ir to this day. Still runs awesome & avg. 24mpg. I couldn't be happier with Tuning Alliance's Maps. Thanks Mike

A quick search, I found this; Measurements taken warm. Straight from the '05 STi FSM. Oil Pressure: 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or more at 800 rpm 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi) or more at 5,000 rpm

You are correct, he only told what he used to remove the cam pulley bolts, but not what he use to hold the pulleys. Sorry, I assume \ read between the line of his post. People usually use the correct tool of the job. Search Company 23. Or Some as used the TB to hold the cams on place to break the bolt free.

Post #2 to answer "?" #I) Post #4 to answer "?" #II)

Good luck on your part. To caught that bearing issue in time. I vote for "not" . If so my bearing must be paper tin by now.

Do to age, mileage, deer, NYS rust & road debris. The LGT goes in for total Repaint ($3500) Sept. 21. Deer; DS head light assy., grill,DS front fender DS rear quarter panel. NYS rust; DS front door & Rear deck.

Went over 275k last weekend. The LGT just don't get driven as much, this time of year

^^^ answered PM

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1302218&postcount=59 Post #59 as all you need to connect 6MT slave cylinder to OEM LGT slave cylinder banjo connection.

It's in my sig. below. Filtration set-up: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html