HAMMER DOWN

Correct, I'm running 93oct. E85 is not really available in my area. Nope, not a clue:rolleyes:

That why I'm running the Deatschwerks 265 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (65c).

No, I bypassed it. Been running at 100% duty cycle for almost 2yrs.(about 70k) with no issues. IIRC, LGT as smaller gauge fuel pump & FPCM wires then the wrx & Sti's. Do to voltage drop off, FP never runs at 100% flow rate. I ran a 10 gauge wire power & ground wires for the FP. And use a relay & the FPCM wires to turn on the FP when the key is turn to "RUN".

No, the smallest wheel I found that fit the LGT, was a steel wheel: 17x6.5 / offset 55. Need to run front OB front brakes to run 16's.

Thanks again for VF-39 updated map. When I switch from my VF-40 with over 314k on it. The VF-39 map is running strong & smooth. Nice surprise, gas mileage is up 1.5mpg, from 24 to 25.5mpg on avg.

Replaced the original VF-40 with a Six Star Speed VF-39, at 314600 miles. That's been on the shelf for almost 3yrs. Drop DP & check turbo for shaft play: Not bad, no in & out, but some up & down, but not enough play to hit the sides of the turbo housings.

Or the injectors, they are original. Never been touched. Mite switch 3 & 4 with 1 & 2 to see what the spark plugs look like.

The last log I did are good & all cylinders roughness count is 0:cool:.

Not a clue, never checked. But she does still run strong with not knock to red line:cool:.

Did a compression test today. Cylinders\ PSI 1)150 2)150 3)150 4)160 Spark plugs 1 & 2 look good, but 3 & 4 are badly worn, with heavy white deposits.

Slipping? did you slip the clutch enough to make it smoke/stink? Do you have a DCCD controller hooked up to the DCCD? If the answer is "no", it mite not be the tranny. Before you drop the tranny. Check to see if all your axles are seated all the way. If just one axle as popped out. You won't have enough pressure on both sides of the DCCD & it will act like your clutch is slipping with out the smoke/stink. This is what happen to me after I did my swap. Left rear axle work it way out as I was accelerating out of a apex. I heard a pop & the RPM's revved up like it was in neutral. I could limp it home by turning the DCCD controller to "Full Lock", but even doing that it wouldn't take much torque to make RPM's rise like it was in neural. It a place to start, good look.

IIRC I have over 100k on my rear NAPA axles.

+1^^^

To help out, post# 143 is on page 10.

Morning commute avg. 65min. Evening 75min. = 2hrs. 20min. a day.

As long as it running good. I'll run it, till it pops. But oil consumption is on the rise. Depending on Compression\leak down test. Mite send turbo out to check it's seals. Miles are about 40/60 City/Highway.

Around 120 miles a day (M-F,) 650-800 miles a week, including Sat. & Sun.

Rolled over 310k on the way to work today.

And NSFW, that put all the info in a few post. That I put in my 1st. post. So others don't have to search through 145+ page thread.

^^^ As long, as you can pay to play;)

^^^Just in case you didn't read this Sticky; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html Might help you make you turbo decision.

Got to love exceeding the limits by almost 3x:wub:

I went with a 4-post, because it was free standing & turn my 3 car garage into a 4. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1224091627.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1224091627a.jpg

On avg. 15k OCI. MY OC cost is about $125. For 2 oil filters & 11qts. of oil. 7qts. for the OC & the other 4qts. will be need for top offs over the 15k-17k OCI. That works out to under $35 for Subaru's 3750 OCI. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

Quote: Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif 1) Is the cable still attach to the inside handle? (If yes), when pulled does it feel like it's still attach to the hood latch.(If yes), have someone pull the inside latch & hold it open & you hit the hood with the palm of you hand. This didn't work. It still firmly unlatched. You mean latched. Quote: Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif Can you see enough cable to got vise grips on to pull cable an open hood. (If yes) but hood don't open. Repeat above. (If no) Peel back the cable housing to expose enough cable to grab a hold of. I don't see how to peel back the housing. Do you have to cut it with a utility knife? At the plastic release handle, remove the cable & clamp vise grips and pull hard. If cable is broken, cut back cable housing( whatever tool that necessary to get the job done, Knife, dermal) to expose cable to use vise grips. Quote: Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif Last if all else fails, you mite have to remove part of you grill (with hole saw, dermal or drill) to get too the driver side top hood latch bolt (12mm). Which also holds the anti thief shield. Once shield is removed, use long pliers or screwdriver to trip open the hood latch. Is there no way to get to this 12mm bolt with maybe an extension and u-joint? Thanks. Yes, after you sacrifice the center of your grill. 1st I'll start by spraying some PB Blaster on the latch mechanism. You wont be able it hit directly, should be able to spray it, using the straw attachment. Spray up behind the center of the grill and soaking the general area. If cable is still attach to the hood release mechanism, repeat set one. good luck, Mike