Enlight

You were right. Adjusted the STS and there was no popping today. On to the next issue, I've got speed sensor codes C0103 (Front Right), C0105 (Rear Right), C0106 (Rear Left). I was able to remove the sensor in the front right before I lost daylight. There are no cuts to the line. I'm dumb when it comes to electrical stuff - what should I be looking for when I use the multimeter? I set it to measure resistance and I get 0 when I put it to the prongs in the sensor. Thanks.

A whirring noise might indicate a bad wheel bearing. Handle the spokes of the wheel and try to rock it top-bottom/side-to-side - is there any play?

Drove Bessie for the first time in over two years today. I can't recall all of the things I did, but to list a few: Southbend stage II clutch and SMFW, new front axles, Killer B oil pan, Dom cylinder 4 cooling mod, Whiteline rear/caster camber kit, Ohlins DFV, wrapped headers/downpipe, turbo blanket. While I was driving today she was popping out of 2nd gear every other shift. I have a Cobb adjustable STS. Related mods might be switching from LWFW to SMFW, new clutch, switching from Group N Trans bushing to OEM. Anyone have any clues on what I should look into? If this requires pulling the tranny... I don't have the intestinal fortitude to undertake that again. I looked at the Cobb STS installation manual and found nothing in it that suggests any adjustments there would affect this.

Use myjapanbrand.com. Place the order through them and they will ship it to you, they make a commission. To be honest I don't know what to look for in those graphs either. I know of at least one other forum member (magnusonsubie) that has a set. They were sold in the US domestically, here's a thread on them.

It converted to about $1,000 USD before shipping. Hard to say what the shipping would be for you since I bundled it with a bunch of other stuff I bought, but perhaps $300 is close.

I picked up a set of Ohlins from Yahoo! Auctions Japan, sent them into service at ANZE Suspension (30 min drive ) and was happy to find out that they are in good mechanical shape. Cosmetically, they are a bit beat up. On one of the locking nuts it looks like they had tightened it without the proper wrench and use a hammer and screwdriver instead. The front boots were replaced and I will need to order the rear boots at some point as well. Installed all of them onto Bessie this afternoon. With the shipping so expensive from Japan, it got my thinking whether people would be interested in an ocean freight service with cheaper shipping, but longer wait times.

I picked up a set of Ohlins from Yahoo! Auctions Japan, sent them into service at ANZE Suspension (30 min drive ) and was happy to find out that they are in good mechanical shape. Cosmetically, they are a bit beat up. On one of the locking nuts it looks like they had tightened it without the proper wrench and use a hammer and screwdriver instead. The front boots were replaced and I will need to order the rear boots at some point as well. Installed all of them onto Bessie this afternoon. With the shipping so expensive from Japan, it got my thinking whether people would be interested in an ocean freight service with cheaper shipping, but longer wait times.

Glad you walked away unscathed. The tow truck driver sounded like a nice guy.

If you're checking frequently, one quart should suffice, and that will fit in the removable side panels in the wagon's trunk.

Flatirons Tuning is putting out some of the highest quality Subaru specific informational videos right now. That video helped me too after my car sat for a year and I swapped out the oil pan.

Everything ok? Sorry to see those vehicles leave your hands.

Upon a closer look it looks like it's not just the dirt getting trapped under rubber trim and plastic liners, but the sheet metal looks like it has multiple layers itself. The moisture seems to get in between the layers. I came upon this because I was feeling the inside of the fender well but couldn't actually feel any rust. The paint surface was smooth and intact. The rust is coming from inside the sheet metal. In the future I'm going to try to Fluid Film into the metal from where the layers are visible. I'll see if I can get a picture of this.

I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon. Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok. In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine. Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend.

Looks legit to me, let us know how it works out if you do end up using it!

Check out MyJapanBrand.com. I placed my order on Yahoo Auctions through them, it gets delivered to their warehouse, then they ship it over. You should know, however, that shipping is quite expensive. I used google translate (through the Chrome function) and it worked well enough for me. If you can isolate the characters that you're translating, that makes searching much easier.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-2005-legacy-gt-wagon-5spd-manual-280339.html?p=5919324#post5919324

Applied three coats of DEI's Hi Temp Silicone paint to my wrapped header, uppipe, and downpipe, curing each coat over my grill. Also primed the motor that has been sitting for almost two years now. Car had an Err 55 which I hope will go away on its own - the wheel sensors look to be in fine condition. All I have to do now is install all the exhaust from the turbo back, install the intercooler, and put the wheels back on. Hard for me to believe that everything is done - I feel like I must be forgetting something.

Yes he did

Seeing as you are in Hong Kong I would check out Yahoo Auctions Japan as you will get much cheaper shipping costs than us in the states. Use "BP5" as a search term and google translate will get you far.

I'll go halfsies with you. OP, pictures of the undercarriage eventually will help as well. That interior looks pristine, btw.

5.12" - 5.31"*, geez, can't even get some decent help around here! In all honesty thank you for that response - I didn't even know what a clevis was. I looked it up in the manual and found the proper section on pedal adjustment. I'm gonna experiment with that a little bit keeping in mind what you said about zero tension. I like the bleeder as I don't like having to bother people for an otherwise two man job. Some pointers if you do get it: I like to prime the tube with fluid before hooking it up to the reservoir in order to introduce less air. However priming the tube can be a little tricky, the fluid will continue to fill the tube even after you stop pumping. I made a bit of a mess as a result. You will need to use the second gasket included in the Asian/Ford kit. The one that comes installed on the cap won't hold pressure reliably. The cap does not fit on the clutch reservoir, only the brake. Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve. Back to what I did to by 4th Gen. today, I also sleeved my oil press./temp. sensor wires to make them more abrasion resistant and salvaged my oil press. sensor with new Deutsch connectors.

Bled my brakes and clutch today using the Motive Power Bleeder today. I need some help on figuring out whether my clutch pedal travel is normal or not - here's a video of it: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3FYNYrv7mQ]Clutch Pedal Travel - YouTube[/ame] Also, does anyone know where this hose goes? Looks like a breather hose to me. Gasket for reference:

Flatirons tuning has a bunch of excellent videos. I just wrapped my headers, uppipe, downpipe, and midpipe and Boxkita's comments have me a little concerned, but at this point I'm willing to roll the dice and learn the hard way. I got the basalt wrap and plan to spray it down with their silicone paint. I'm worried about oil wicking so I'm hoping the paint will impregnate the fibers enough to address that issue. DEI recommends applying three coats and curing at 400f between each coat for 2 hours (application of paint for basalt wrap is different than the fiberglass). It's going to be a long weekend with my Kamado Joe. Here are the oil press./temp. wires my inconel coated headers burned up.

If you wait long enough on the forums a 6-speed swapped wagon might pop up.

You've got PM