Enlight

Nice, thanks. I was able to find that thread and downloaded the PDF. I sprayed some Aerokroil in there and it came right out.

Gonna try posting again in my own thread before I clutter the rest of the forum. I ordered some aluminum Spec B arms from yahoo auctions Japan and am having trouble removing the old wheel bearing from the rear trailing arm. I want to remove everything from the arm so I can drop it off at the shop to have the old bushings replaced. You can see my progress in the pictures below. The wheel bearings still don't want to come off - do I need to just bang on it or is there something I'm missing?

Hey folks, I'm about to pull the trigger on Whiteline bushings for the control arms all around but thought I'd open it up to second opinions before I do. The reason I'm replacing them is because I have torn bushings in the front and rear. I chose Whiteline because Mike from AZP reported no increases in NVH from numerous customers. I intend on using Energy Suspension Lube (https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-Formula-Prelube/dp/B000CN7B4I) with the bushings. Are there any other bushings I should be considering for longevity and minimal maintenance re: greasing? P.S. I considered Group N's but they don't have Rear Upper Control Arm bushings. Also, I'm intending on getting the front anti-lift and rear camber bushings from Whiteline Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk

I believe Taiwan.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/32e300d422e2e4656ba9efddbe9ff912.jpg Just rolled 100,000 the other day. Still going strong, though the front O2 sensor is giving me problems again for the third time on a track day a couple weeks ago. Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know the part no. for the 07 STi shift lever in question here? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Hmm, thanks for the input. The garage did not mention what specifically did not fit, except for a vague suggestion that I get a short shifter. I think it may just be a better idea to have the guys at AZP figure out exactly what's going on.

I need some help finding the source of a problem: I purchased the Spec B. Shifter Rod and Stay to center the shift lever, but the first shop I brought it to said that they couldn't get it to fit. I bought my car with a 2008 STi 6-speed already swapped in and it also has a 6-speed SPT short shifter included, though whether it is the STi or Spec B. versions I do not know. I'm thinking of bringing my car to AZP to have them do the job, but does anyone know what could be the source of the fitment issue. Thanks in advance.

Dyno tune from Mike at Tuning Alliance:

I just got a tune from Mike this Saturday and I would recommend him to anyone. I brought my car in since I didn't know the quality of the last tune under previous owners. He found that the car was running a bit leaning and pulling timing. By the time he got done with it, he was able to make the maps safer and add 1whp and 25wtq, in addition to a fatter overall curve. Before Mike began, he asked me about the modifications done, opened up the hood and checked for boost leaks. He disassembled some parts and refitted them for a tighter seal and also discovered some minor issues for me to fix. This tells me he's very thorough and takes an expansive approach to tuning - he doesn't just sit behind a screen. When we wrapped up the dyno tune he brought the car on the road to make some finishing touches. On the ride I asked him about his thoughts on turbos. Some of the stuff he was talking about was beyond the edge of my understanding, but he strikes me as someone who puts an emphasis on strong fundamental understanding of modification. You won't be taken on any shortcuts with him. I have little doubt that I'll be returning to Mike if I continue with any upgrades in the future. It's also worth mentioning that his Dyno tune price is a much greater value than the other esteemed tuner in the region.

Is Keefe around any more?

I believe I have an 08 STi shift lever, could this be the source of the problems?

These are the parts I ordered.

I'm having Ultimate Collision Center in Peekskill, NY swap out the shifter linkage for a Spec B unit to center the shift knob. They just called me and told me that the Spec B linkage will cause metal on metal contact when shifting into reverse. Has anyone else encountered this?

Picture in post 527 doesn't seem to be working for me.

I've been on and off but I joined in 04.

Latest report from Blackstone Labs. Mainly wanted to see whether there was any coolant in the oil, things look ok.

Can you explain why grinding down the plugs would eliminate the rattle?

She's running strong! Planning another road trip this summer, thinking about heading to The South.

I ran a VIN check on Bessie I (my first 4th gen.) and thought the results were interesting enough to post. Everything happening after "Bayside" was after I sold the car.

I can't remember seeing a turbo in that location on a Subaru before, very cool. The last time I was in Taiwan was during the Lunar New Year last year, saw a lot of 5th gen wagons which was a treat. What city are you in?

Fellow expert on godly acts of devastation, Fred Phelps, Jr., might agree, claiming that the recent support of by Kevin Durant of the Oklahoma City Thunder of Jason Collins’ recent coming out is what led to the devastating tornado. God don’t look too kindly on love and support, y’all.

Turns out what appears to be a wire is just electrical tape folded over itself. Ok, thanks. I might play around with it a little more.

You should post this in this 4th gen. thread too, sure people would appreciate it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-see-hooked-up-wagons-26202.html

Hmm, I don't know. I will try to see where it leads when I get a chance.