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I downgraded to the Spec B. tranny mount from the Group N for the same reason. Next is shifter bushings.

Congrats to the both of you!

At the risk of de-railing this thread (OP, please let me know if you'd like this taken elsewhere), but would you mind expanding on what you mean by tuning coilovers for good ride quality here? I just picked up a set of Ohlins and had them serviced by ANZE, but I didn't give them any direction as far as having them tuned for one purpose or the other. I pretty much did what you just described.

Sway bar pending in classifieds, may be worth checking whether it has sold https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D281195&share_tid=281195&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&link_source=app Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I was wondering that as well but when I looked on Whiteline's website they didn't offer any adjustable bushings for the lateral link, I'm not aware of any other bushings as well. I think the OEM bushings should fit anyway.

As I'm looking into these lateral bushings more it looks like they are able to be replaced. I realized I had ordered a wrong bushing so it may have appeared too small. In either case, I was able to compare two different aluminum lateral links I had (both ordered from Japan) and they have noticeable differences. Perhaps these were variations JDM arms had between the model years. Unfortunately I don't know which years there are from. As you can see on of them is adjustable and the other isn't.

I think you will enjoy the Bolt Buster even more than I do, Madrig. Stopped by RPM Motorsports today to drop off my upper lateral arms but Tony pointed out that the bushings I ordered were too small before he got to work. He called the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the inner bushings for the Spec B arms are not sold separately/replaceable. Has anyone replaced the inner bushing on their Spec B upper lateral arm? As an aside, I'd recommend anyone in the NYC area to visit RPM if you want skilled technicians working on your car. I used the Subaru parts website to narrow down these parts but it was still wrong - selecting the proper model for the parts and all. I may end up installing another set of lateral arms I ordered from Japan which I had planned to resell as a complete aluminum set.

I've never heard of thicker door seals so I did some light googling and found this . He inserts poly foam rope into the existing door seals to fatten them up which should also result in a tighter seal. It's a pretty neat idea I haven't encountered before. I might do this myself at some point. Whereabouts in New York are you?

Beautiful. Glad to see a new build on the forum.

To be honest my first impression wasn't that great because I bought it to help get off the bottom nut on my downpipe, but in reality the problem was more that I just wasn't able to get a socket to seat on that nut properly. Had I had the Bolt Buster earlier in the process I might have been able to remove the nut before I stripped all the corners. I attached what it looked like when I finally got it off. The stud came off before the nut did, as you can see. I actually like the Bolt Buster now and it's very nice to have in the arsenal. It can get a nut cherry red in under a minute and I don't have to worry about an open flame burning bushings or oil or gasoline - it keeps the heat very local. Do you take any steps to try and keep rust on your chassis to a minimum up there? Also, I owe you an e-mail. Been busy with the Chinese New Year.

Removed the driver side rear upper lateral link today. I don't know whether it was the Aerokroil that's been sitting for a few days or the heat I put on it (via ) but I'm glad it came off with ease. Now I just need to wait for the new bushings to arrive in the mail so I can bring them to the shop to get pressed. Also ordered some 10 AWG sleeves to re-insulate the Bolt Buster coils. Brushed the remaining wheel bearings clean of rust and hit them with Fluid Film style and put on the Centric rotors I ordered from AZP.

I have this problem as well and also plan on adding some sound deadening to my car. Keep it up.

Thanks, man. I'm in Bayside. We can set up a cruise or something sometime when she's road ready. Got my Centric premium rotors from AZP Installs in the mail yesterday. Weather should clear up tomorrow so I can resume work. Was happy to see that atwood (previous owner) installed the thicker parking brakes on the rear for the Brembo conversion. Made selecting the rotors much easier.

I don't know about door seals, but my understanding is that much of the noise is transmitted through vibration in the sheet metal acting much like a drunk drum. For example, consider the area where the spare tire is located. It is also located right by the mufflers - this area will have a lot of resonant sound. A website some people on this forum have used in the past is SoundDeadenerShowdown, but the guy retired last year and his website is about to expire in the next couple days, I believe. I would hop on there an glean what information you can while it's still there. You just reminded me to download their website. Edit: Spelling

Another A.M. session today. I found a tear in the passenger side rear upper lateral arm bushing and it came off with surprising ease. It seems like it's good form to change both sides at a time but the driver side arm is much more stubborn, it will have to wait until the weekend when I can put heat on it. Also tried out my new end brush to remove some surface rust on a wheel bearing and hit it with some Fluid Film. And I found gas on the plastic underpanel by the gas tank so I've gotta remove that to find the leak now.

Woke up this early this morning and removed all the rotors. It took about 45 minutes. I'm too far into this project now to start losing momentum. Waiting on the fine folks at AZP to call me back so I can order Centric's premium rotors. Also stopped by Home Depot and picked up an end wire brush to clean up all the mating surfaces. I noticed torn bushings in my rear lateral arms and I hope that's what causing the car to pull to the right. SubaruSource.com seems to have the cheapest parts online right now so I ordered new bushings and fasteners from them. When I was at my gas door today I smelled gasoline and noticed dampness on the ground. Got in the close and smelled that it was gasoline. Looked around with the filler neck exposed and couldn't find any leaks. Hoping the gas was spewed from an exhaust leak at the Y-bend when the car was running in limp mode. Will have to keep an eye on that. I'm trying to move double-time now that I'm nearing the final stages. Weekdays + weekends now, have to keep the momentum up.

I wanted this to be real. The story is Subaru had no hand in this independent tuner's car.

Yeesh - good catch. I had a local driveshaft shop install a serviceable joint there.

This will be more of a reflection post than an update. When I bought her I promised myself that I would learn to wrench on it myself, knowing that the maintenance needs would only grow with a car that was already 12 years old (when I first bought it). First things I did were relatively simple, like the timing belt and removing the banjo filters. Eventually the time came for when the clutch had to be replaced. This has taken much longer than it needed to at about two years, due to a combination of wanting to socialize on weekends, hangovers, and having to rely on natural light and weather conditions. Also, this was mostly a solo endeavor and I learned as I went. I didn't inherit any tools or experience, just relying mostly on this forum, YouTube videos, and the vacation pics. As projects go, I did other upgrades and fixes "while I'm at it" and the laundry list grew. I drove the car again for the first time a couple weeks ago and brought her in for an alignment, only to find new issues that resulted from it sitting for so long. The rotors have rusted over and aren't worth resurfacing, I heard what sounded like the engine block rocking upon lifting off the gas, and there's a springing sound coming from the shifter. The coil packs are on their way out as well. I was hoping for a light at the end of the tunnel where I could enjoy the car for a bit and remember why I bought her in the first place, but it seemed that there was just more to this ever growing list - no satisfaction to be had. This car has been a metaphor of sorts. I've often thought about the message from the Bhagavad Gita as a result of it, that we are entitled to work, to undertake efforts, and negotiate our way through this world, but we are not entitled to its rewards. So I taught myself to just put in the time. Just put in the time. Especially when I was removing the bottom nut from the downpipe. It's been awfully tempting to fall into frustration with this car, but the reality is I've actually made progress and cleared a significant milestone, and that the issues that lie ahead can be broken down into discrete steps, and the problems isolated. Getting this car back into driving shape is just part of a larger project I've been working on that I hope to share at some point. Just one step at a time.

She's a beaut.

Replaced all the brake pads, cleaned up the pins and brackets and applied CBC Brake Quiet while I was at it. And grease. My rotors also need to be resurfaced or replaced. Do you guys think I can still resurface them? They are 2.9cm across and 3mm at the thinnest part of the rotor surface. These are for 2004 STi Brembos. Hoping I don't have to drop cash on 4 new rotors. Edit: Nevermind, found my answer on the manufacturer forum.

Took a gamble with buying a speed sensor before isolating the culprit and I happened to the nail the right one (front passenger), the P0500 code is cleared. Now I have only an airbag light to take care of. Hopefully it's just a wire I forgot to reconnect after I had my head unit out. Sorry to hear, Boxkita. That's a major headache. Glad to hear about the fun you're having at school. Makes me want to look into classes nearby.

I went with the Gates belts and OEM water pump and tensioner at the advice of this forum. Some others may have had good luck with others as well.

Thanks, that's a good tip. I have replaced the axles but they are rebuilt OEMs so it shouldn't cause and issue. I was able to order a new front-right sensor for $30 shipped yesterday. If that doesn't solve it I'll try your spinning method. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I'm looking at the manual now and it says to use an oscilloscope to diagnose. I remember reading elsewhere on the forum that someone replaced one sensor and it cleared the other sensor codes as well. I thought I might start by buying one sensor and trying to isolate the problem that way, but each corner has a different part number. I have done ECU resets already. My feeling is it's the front passenger sensor (at least) as I let the brakes hang on by that sensor by mistake.