qikslvr

I got mine from the dealer back in May and it was $1053 including taxes/shipping at the time. I did the install myself. They may be giving some discount nowadays though. If you can get it with the dealer install for $700 that would be a steal.

I personally started by getting an AEM CAI and a Short Throw Shifter a couple years ago when I got the car new. This spring I got an AP to prep for the rest of the process. This allows you to kill CEL codes from the beginning of the serious mods and change maps easily as you go. After that I tackled the exhaust by doing a Perrin UP, Autospeed DP and SPT CBE and got a TDC Stage2 e-tune. Then I did a lightweight pully just to smooth things out. I also new tires this spring. Then this week I got a new Perrin TMIC, GT Spec Header/UP along with a few rolls of heat wrap to keep the engine bay a little cooler. This is all in prep for a new LGT mount type turbo. I also got a new Spec Stage2 Clutch Pack to handle the added power. I will then be getting a new TDC tune by the end of the month. To go along with these engine parts; I also got Perrin Endlink and Hawk HPS Brake Pads to help with handling and stopping and in prep for swaybars and coilovers that I will be doing in the spring. I have thought/shopped long and hard about what I wanted and how to get there since I like to do things right the first time and parts are just too expensive to buy over and over. So far I'm in for about $5200 worth of parts this year to get to where I'm at. Here is a link that pretty well covers the long list that most owners have done: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31762&highlight=mods+order

I had a K&N filter when I first got my LGT back in 05. I think I used it for about two months before getting an AEM CAI. I made a little difference, but not much. It just let the car breath easier. For $39 I guess it a good place to start if your just testing the mod waters.

Where to begin with modifications to your Legacy GT In response to this question; I would have to say that you need to modify your cashflow way before you start to modify your LGT. This is one expensive car to mod and it just gets worse the farther you go.

Ya, I'm just talking about track days. I'm aware that the bottom of my air filter is only about 8" off the ground on the gutter side and the engine bay opening is perfect for water splash. Thats why I have a heatshield on the exposed side of my filter already. Besides, I don't drive my car in the rain or the winter if I can help it. Thats why I have a Jeep, Range Rover or Yaris. As for cooling; (again at the track) with the skidplate and engine shroud on; my engine won't cool down at all inbetween runs this time of year even after an hour between runs. Removing the skidplate would at least allow air to actually flow through the engine compartment(by convection if nothing else) and blow onto the block and oil pan while the vehicle is sitting still with the hood up and the engine is not running.

I ended up going to an AEM CAI because when I put the Subaru Bug Deflector on it basically closed that intake on the top of the grill off almost completely. Now my air filter is way down in the passenger tire well where there is really no "open or free-flowing" access to the outside air. It runs better with the skidplate off, but I would rather not, so this may be a good option or starting point. I may just make a snorkel that goes through the side of the skid right in that area.

Here is a link to mustang dyno products. http://www.mustangdyne.com/performancetuning.htm You should really only have your subaru tested on an AWD dyno. It is stated right in the owners manual. I'm in the dead center of the U.S. and I have to go to Minneapolis, Cleaveland or Salt Lake City to hit an AWD dyno.